AAM SPEC Angled Plenum Spacer !Group Buy!
Impressions on the spacer after 10 days of daily driving.
1) The idle has moved up a bit from the 750-800 range to the 900+ range which really helps lower the chatter of my lightweight flywheel!!!
2) Butt dyno feels the pull above 4500rpm all the way to redline. Excellent.
3) G-Tech readings every day have shown that the ECU is indeed learning and that the power curve is now very closely matching the baseline, but improved by a good steady 10WHP above 4000rpm. Outstanding!
4) HWY gas milage has actually improved by 1.5mpg, however city milage has suffered. Most likely due to my getting on it to feel that pull.
Excellent mod.
1) The idle has moved up a bit from the 750-800 range to the 900+ range which really helps lower the chatter of my lightweight flywheel!!!
2) Butt dyno feels the pull above 4500rpm all the way to redline. Excellent.
3) G-Tech readings every day have shown that the ECU is indeed learning and that the power curve is now very closely matching the baseline, but improved by a good steady 10WHP above 4000rpm. Outstanding!
4) HWY gas milage has actually improved by 1.5mpg, however city milage has suffered. Most likely due to my getting on it to feel that pull.
Excellent mod.
Originally Posted by roark
Impressions on the spacer after 10 days of daily driving.
1) The idle has moved up a bit from the 750-800 range to the 900+ range which really helps lower the chatter of my lightweight flywheel!!!
2) Butt dyno feels the pull above 4500rpm all the way to redline. Excellent.
3) G-Tech readings every day have shown that the ECU is indeed learning and that the power curve is now very closely matching the baseline, but improved by a good steady 10WHP above 4000rpm. Outstanding!
4) HWY gas milage has actually improved by 1.5mpg, however city milage has suffered. Most likely due to my getting on it to feel that pull.
Excellent mod.
1) The idle has moved up a bit from the 750-800 range to the 900+ range which really helps lower the chatter of my lightweight flywheel!!!
2) Butt dyno feels the pull above 4500rpm all the way to redline. Excellent.
3) G-Tech readings every day have shown that the ECU is indeed learning and that the power curve is now very closely matching the baseline, but improved by a good steady 10WHP above 4000rpm. Outstanding!
4) HWY gas milage has actually improved by 1.5mpg, however city milage has suffered. Most likely due to my getting on it to feel that pull.
Excellent mod.
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From: Toronto,Canada
Originally Posted by alininger2001
Put the washer on the bolt and then put the bolt in the hole and turn.
Sorry to doubt your answer, intially I thought the same as you, but after reading Motordyne's install instruction I am confused...
Should I turn tighten the bolts to as tight as 45 inch lbs?
Thanks
Originally Posted by islandsnow
When i installed it, I felt a lot more torque and faster revving up to redline, just seemed to make the engine breath a lot easier and made it a lot funner to drive. Seemed easier to get those 2nd gear chirps again. I do have a lot of exhaust bolt ons so maybe this is balancing my car out better. I didn't reset the ECU, just let it self adjust.
For the install, it was pretty easy, the bad thing about 2002/early 2003 Z builds is that they used ***** bolts for the strut bar. It's easy to strip the bolt heads on these early model Z's so i had to drill some of the heads off to get the strut bar off. When you install the plenum spacer, once the center bolts are in, the side screws are easy to get on. The oem specs are only like 7in lbs or something like that, not even ft/lbs, so be really careful if you use the stock shorter bolts. You should be able to get the plenum back on tight enough with the supplied screws. I've been running without long bolts till today, just put them in, still running great. I don't think you need loctite, but i would check the screws again after a couple of weeks just to make sure they are still tight. If you are worried about anything flying off, you shouldn't, theres like 18 bolts holding this thing on.
For the install, it was pretty easy, the bad thing about 2002/early 2003 Z builds is that they used ***** bolts for the strut bar. It's easy to strip the bolt heads on these early model Z's so i had to drill some of the heads off to get the strut bar off. When you install the plenum spacer, once the center bolts are in, the side screws are easy to get on. The oem specs are only like 7in lbs or something like that, not even ft/lbs, so be really careful if you use the stock shorter bolts. You should be able to get the plenum back on tight enough with the supplied screws. I've been running without long bolts till today, just put them in, still running great. I don't think you need loctite, but i would check the screws again after a couple of weeks just to make sure they are still tight. If you are worried about anything flying off, you shouldn't, theres like 18 bolts holding this thing on.
also, where did you notice your power increase? i have a completed exhaust system now and i am looking for more mid to high range power...the dc headers seemed to add a little more down low and pull throughout the powerband...but roll on power sucks
Actually, you'd end up stripping the threads in the lower plenum if you over-torque those bolts...I doubt they'd snap first.
And I had the same experience with those damn strut bar bolts. I was able to remove all but one that I'd rounded off pretty good (that's after I busted a Craftsman deep socket on the thing). I ended up using a special socket that fits over, and cuts into, the bold head to get it out. First time using one, but it worked like a charm. Gonna replace with some harder bolts when I get around to putting it back on.
And I had the same experience with those damn strut bar bolts. I was able to remove all but one that I'd rounded off pretty good (that's after I busted a Craftsman deep socket on the thing). I ended up using a special socket that fits over, and cuts into, the bold head to get it out. First time using one, but it worked like a charm. Gonna replace with some harder bolts when I get around to putting it back on.
Originally Posted by BlackZ33
Sorry to doubt your answer, intially I thought the same as you, but after reading Motordyne's install instruction I am confused...
Should I turn tighten the bolts to as tight as 45 inch lbs?
Thanks
Should I turn tighten the bolts to as tight as 45 inch lbs?
Thanks
What it means is...Place the standard metal washer on the bolt first. Then place the O-ring washer onto the bolt second. This prevents the Top portion of the bolt from tearing up or grinding the delicate O-ring washer when tightening the bolt once on the plenum. I believe (44-66 inch pounds) translates to (6ft.lbs.), but don't quote me on that.
I talked with AAM/DAVE about the "OEM spacers" below on the post and in your picture. He said additional spacers to compensate for the gaping are not needed and the plenum is plenty strong without them. They said they did not want to take the risk of adding spacers and having them fall into the manifold. God would that be a nightmare if one fell into the engine...baNG!!
Word of advice for newbie's working on there car... When taking off the strut, use a socket that has six sides instead of multiple sides and don't use a regular wrench. You want to grab as much of that bolt as possible with the socket.
Originally Posted by dgz32
Actually, you'd end up stripping the threads in the lower plenum if you over-torque those bolts...I doubt they'd snap first.
And I had the same experience with those damn strut bar bolts. I was able to remove all but one that I'd rounded off pretty good (that's after I busted a Craftsman deep socket on the thing). I ended up using a special socket that fits over, and cuts into, the bold head to get it out. First time using one, but it worked like a charm. Gonna replace with some harder bolts when I get around to putting it back on.
And I had the same experience with those damn strut bar bolts. I was able to remove all but one that I'd rounded off pretty good (that's after I busted a Craftsman deep socket on the thing). I ended up using a special socket that fits over, and cuts into, the bold head to get it out. First time using one, but it worked like a charm. Gonna replace with some harder bolts when I get around to putting it back on.
OK i am heading to the store to buy some 30mm and 35mm bolts.
What are the exact sizes I as I would see them at the store? I looked at all the metric bolts a week ago and I seen severeal different 30mm and 35mm bolts, some had the thread all the way to the top.
What are the exact sizes I as I would see them at the store? I looked at all the metric bolts a week ago and I seen severeal different 30mm and 35mm bolts, some had the thread all the way to the top.
Originally Posted by derek173
OK i am heading to the store to buy some 30mm and 35mm bolts.
What are the exact sizes I as I would see them at the store? I looked at all the metric bolts a week ago and I seen severeal different 30mm and 35mm bolts, some had the thread all the way to the top.
What are the exact sizes I as I would see them at the store? I looked at all the metric bolts a week ago and I seen severeal different 30mm and 35mm bolts, some had the thread all the way to the top.
Not looking back in the thread owned me 
So I should pick up M6 x 30MM to replace the 25MM bolts
and M6 x 35MM to replace the six front bolt.....right?
Someone mentioned 40mm bolts, where would they go?
Washers only go on bolts 3-1-6????
Last edited by derek173; Mar 16, 2005 at 12:46 PM.
so to clarify....even the revision does not include the proper size bolts?
can you identify what bolts these are and what sizes so that i have everything ready when i go to install/please refer to the aam install instructions for reference for bolt numbers....thanks
can you identify what bolts these are and what sizes so that i have everything ready when i go to install/please refer to the aam install instructions for reference for bolt numbers....thanks
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Can I give you a call? Email me your number or call me at the shop. I'd be happy to walk you through it all.
Originally Posted by BlackZ33
Thanks for the detail review Islandsnow!
I am not really good at mechanical things
The instruction says " place washer with intergrated o-ring below bolts"
But I just don't understand what it really means!
Where should I put the O-ring washer?
Is it inside the plenum? or on the surface of the plenum?
What sizes longer bolts did you use?
I am still stuck in the middle of my install, cannot drive my car for 2 days already
I am not really good at mechanical things
The instruction says " place washer with intergrated o-ring below bolts"
But I just don't understand what it really means!
Where should I put the O-ring washer?
Is it inside the plenum? or on the surface of the plenum?
What sizes longer bolts did you use?
I am still stuck in the middle of my install, cannot drive my car for 2 days already
Thread Starter
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Posts: 556
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From: Alexandria, VA
Revised Instruction Download
Angled Plenum Instructions
Hope this helps. Pelase let me know what issue come up so I can revise the instructions accordingly.
Angled Plenum Instructions
Hope this helps. Pelase let me know what issue come up so I can revise the instructions accordingly.
I would recommend bolt sizes, but haven't installed yet... I tried posting a blank illustration, but no one contributed. I will create an illustration with sizes and placement if someone will help Someone who has actually installed it.
My only concern...how is it possible to use any of the stock bolts around the perimeter when your adding a "spacer" that varies from (.25-.5"). The bolts have to be (5-15mm) longer to create the same thread lock. That's just my .02
Someone who has actually installed it. My only concern...how is it possible to use any of the stock bolts around the perimeter when your adding a "spacer" that varies from (.25-.5"). The bolts have to be (5-15mm) longer to create the same thread lock. That's just my .02
Originally Posted by Zquicksilver
I would recommend bolt sizes, but haven't installed yet... I tried posting a blank illustration, but no one contributed. I will create an illustration with sizes and placement if someone will help Someone who has actually installed it.
Someone who has actually installed it. 8,14,15 = 30mm
12,13,16,17 = 35mm
7,10,11,18 = 40mm
2,4,5,9 = 60mm
1,3,6 = 70mm
I would not go ANY longer on the center bolts, since the threads are only so deep. You may have to tap the holes further if you get longer bolts.
someone help me!!!! Where are you guys getting these bolts.
I went toa couple stores but none of them have these bolts! I found 30mm but nothing else!
I went to:
Pep Boys
AutoZone
Murrays
Home Depot
Menards
Ace
I went toa couple stores but none of them have these bolts! I found 30mm but nothing else!
I went to:
Pep Boys
AutoZone
Murrays
Home Depot
Menards
Ace
cool, thanks
OK, here you go. The ideal set of bolts (IMHO):
8,14,15 = 30mm
12,13,16,17 = 35mm
7,10,11,18 = 40mm
2,4,5,9 = 60mm
1,3,6 = 70mm
I would not go ANY longer on the center bolts, since the threads are only so deep. You may have to tap the holes further if you get longer bolts
8,14,15 = 30mm
12,13,16,17 = 35mm
7,10,11,18 = 40mm
2,4,5,9 = 60mm
1,3,6 = 70mm
I would not go ANY longer on the center bolts, since the threads are only so deep. You may have to tap the holes further if you get longer bolts
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From: Toronto,Canada
I think already strip two of the threads in the lower plenum, I was tightening it by hand!
The lower threads are too fragile ? or what steps should I use to prevent stripping?
The lower threads are too fragile ? or what steps should I use to prevent stripping?
Originally Posted by dgz32
Actually, you'd end up stripping the threads in the lower plenum if you over-torque those bolts...I doubt they'd snap first.
And I had the same experience with those damn strut bar bolts. I was able to remove all but one that I'd rounded off pretty good (that's after I busted a Craftsman deep socket on the thing). I ended up using a special socket that fits over, and cuts into, the bold head to get it out. First time using one, but it worked like a charm. Gonna replace with some harder bolts when I get around to putting it back on.
And I had the same experience with those damn strut bar bolts. I was able to remove all but one that I'd rounded off pretty good (that's after I busted a Craftsman deep socket on the thing). I ended up using a special socket that fits over, and cuts into, the bold head to get it out. First time using one, but it worked like a charm. Gonna replace with some harder bolts when I get around to putting it back on.