rodH

iTrader: (2)

I measured the headers inside and outside the tubes, it appears to me that they are pretty dang close, I don't have a PEFECT method to measure it down to the mm, but it sure measures about the same the 2 ways I am measuring it. ANYONE ELSE???

bobd

I laid a string along the outer bend and the inner bend for each tube and measured the string. I don't remember the exact measurements, but they were not equal from tube to tube.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

there's a lot of room for error with a string, you'll need to use something with a much wider diameter or fill up the volume of each tube with something that can be weighed

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

they are close but not equal length

rodH

iTrader: (2)

The best way would probably be to take a water hose and cut it and put it inside the actual header and compare.

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

according to their website, they are advertised as equal length...check it out dc sports

i have them and they are of good quality...i don't know what the going price is on these now, but i got mine for 350 shipped

the power gains appear to be low to mid range....but no dyno for proof

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

That just might be the best way to measure for the average JOE It will give a close representation to "center line" in the tube. Trying to measure with a string or garmet tape will just be a headache.

I analyze and design 3 dimensional stuff all day long. I would say a majority of headers are "close" to equal length, but it seems to me that the Crawford appear to be the only ones truly equal. You can see the difference when you put a pair side by side.

Zquicksilver

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

close enough for me....especially an ss header, "equal length", good quality, and at $350 shipped from summit i couldn't pass it up...i even bought two sets .

i sold one set + $100 and then had mine jet hot coated - $200...so in all i paid about $450 including the coating. i installed them myself so i saved another + $400. what a pain in the azz though....after the first dyi header install you could probably cut your installation time in half the second time. if you like doing your own installations, this one is a nice challenge, requires a little imagination (tool combinations), and is a gratifying accomplishment

now if i really had to choose headers i would probably go with crawford (proven for power and good quality) or alphawerks (once their hp claims are substantiated)....they both seem to have the best gains and are about the same price. there may be a litte difference in installation time but not enough to really matter since they are both pricey anyways.

i would also recommend a coating to keep the temps down and to protect lines and wiring that run close to the headers....as well as keeping engine bay temperatures as minimal as possible.

i went with black on my coating to try and hide the headers for smog inspections...they blend in rather nicely with my super black engine bay

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

Very nice Road Warrior... and I agree on the being close enough issue

I picked up a pair of SS TS Headers for around $225 shipped and I guess with the money I saved I'll send them off for the JETHOT 2000 coating.

This is going to be a fun install...j/k...I like a challenge every once in a while though

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

here is a good tip that will save you some time and major frustration (applies to those who have a coating done on their headers): before you install them, be sure to run your header sensor in there a few times so that they will thread in easily when the time comes to reinstall those sensors.

also, if you go with jethot get the 2000 coating...its not much more and can withstand the higher temps that the z produces! only comes in three colors but you can't really see the headers anyways

i disconnected the driver side header sensor so that i could thread them into the headers (before installation). you will twist those sensor wires if you don't disconnect them during the installation. having them "prepped" will also avoid cross threading

i also used my dremel to clean out the bung hole threads of the headers so that the header sensors could thread in more easily....otherwise you will be fighting trying to get those threads started (especially if you already have the headers mounted like i did).

i spent hours just trying to get these threads started because of that coating ....i got so frustrated that i had to stop and start over the next day (took me and another person two days).

thats another good tip, when you reach that frustration level take a little break and then get back to it...this will allow you to calm down and things will work much easier afterwards

also, buy the correct metric wrench for those sensors instead of using a crescent....you will be able to get more of a bite and have better leverage for loosening and tightening those sensors. i know its either a 22 or 23 mm open end wrench but i can't remember exactly.

the cat sensors are much easier to access....i recommend diconnecting those sensor wires to avoid twisting them (don't forget to label them). the only one i didn't get to disconnect was the passenger side header sensor....and when you re-install the sensor if you are not able to disconnect it first, just twist them the opposite way of tightening so that the wires are not twisted when the sensor is tight.

have fun

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

An easy way to avoid all the o2 sensor trouble is to have the bungs capped when you send them off to get coated. I made sure I had plugs in the bungs when I sent mine off.

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

i like that idea of capping the bung holes....believe me, this can be a pain and cause some problems threading those sensors in if there is coating on the threads

rodH

iTrader: (2)

I have the ceramic headers (so they are already coated VS the SS version). I also happen to fall into a lucky situation I think. I was looking for a Nismo exhaust, a local guy had one for sale, slightly used and gave me the headers and heat shields http://www.atpwrap.com/albumframeRacing.htm for ONLY $200 more!!!!!

I think the heat sheid was CUSTOM made for the Z (for this customer) since when I called them to get some wire for the cover, I was trasnsferred to the owner of the company, and surprised that I have one for the Z. Then as we talked, he knew whos headers I bought and he was very very cool. Mine looks closest to this http://www.atpwrap.com/Salbums/impor...haust_8565.jpg

THE ONLY problem is that INSTALLING these sheilds was a total pain, and I had to pay extra for them to be installed. I guess there is NO room in there to work, especially after the header is already is installed. my guess is that along with the ceramic coating and this heat shield, it is does a pretty dang good job.

I will have to take some pics later, it is pretty trick. Judging by these prices http://www.atpwrap.com/viper.htm , I am going to assume that the 2 sheilds were AT LEAST $500 for the pair.

Znitro

Rod,
your right I paid around 4-5 hun for them and they did a great job

rodH

iTrader: (2)

Znitro,

I really didn't know how GREAT the deal was until I saw the site. Then I had them installed and was even charged more money for the hassle but oh well, it still turned out to be a GREAT deal. The entire package with install was about the same price as a Nismo exhaust with tax at MSRP.

I did notice that for some reason I scrape way easier now, does the NISMO exhaust sit lower than stock just a bit??? I need to be very careful.