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dynoed my 05 300hp engine whit few bolts on

Old Jun 5, 2005 | 02:08 PM
  #41  
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no clue.... but im sure there is there always is... plus tons of other factors.

Like down hear no one whatz to dyno now due to the heat and humiditity.
My take on that is dont drive ur car either cause it will perform less.
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #42  
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that weird cuz your a/f is richer then me and your making more hp then i do on the same dyno bran!
Originally Posted by thawk408
Mine is almost the exact same way. I only had the a/f ratios hooked up for my baseline, so I don't have one with the crawford plenum. After I do headers and highflows I will have the a/f hooked up when I dyno.

The a/f ratios are written on the bottom of the picture, take a look:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...21123818VBbbZi
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 07:19 PM
  #43  
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I knew I wasn't loosing my mind. Here is a post from G35driver.com where a 298hp Coupe gained 2hp and lost 2tq by adding the 3/8" spacer. http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53060 If the spacer truely worked on this new intake manifold, we'd see the results.

Highlight post:

Before I installed any mods on my 2005 6MT coupe, I dynoed it to get a baseline of HP and torque. I don't trust "butt dyno." Riding with my windows down and hearing my car at WOT gives me enough butt-dyno that I know not to trust myself. So according to the Dynojet a month ago, my stock coupe had a peak HP of 245.63 and a peak torque of 221.49 ft./lbs. These numbers were SAE corrected for humidity, temp, and elevation. (as they should be.)

This past weekend, I installed a Z-tube, Amsoil air filter, and a 3/8 Motordyne plenum spacer. I took my car into the same shop and ran it on the same dyno. Peak HP = 247.06 and peak torque = 219.74. That's a peak gain of about 1.5 HP and a loss of about 1.75 ft./lbs. of torque.

But what you don't see is that the graphs (which I will post when I get access to a scanner) show a 1-5 HP loss across all of the RPM range until you hit about 6200 RPMs which is where you get a tiny blip of 1.5 HP gain for about 100 RPMs. On the torque side of things, you see a 0-5 ft/lbs loss of torque until you hit about 5800 RPMs where you gain 0-1 until fuel cutoff.
Even Tony at Motordyne is unsure if the spacer really does much on these cars.
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 07:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by thawk408
The redisgned manifold is not found on every 05 6mt. The manifold is only found on the 05 Track and 05 35th Aniv. Edition 6spd.
Maybe the Z is different, but it's found on all 2005 6MT G35s. If the VQ35 is rated at 298-300hp, it has the new manifold.
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 08:02 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
Maybe the Z is different, but it's found on all 2005 6MT G35s. If the VQ35 is rated at 298-300hp, it has the new manifold.
I was talking about Zs not Gs. Yes the redesigned manifold is on the 300hp engine which is the exact same as the 298 engine found in the G35.
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 04:52 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
I think that spacer is costing you power. With redesigned higher flow intake manifold for the 6MTs, adding a spacer will most likely cause tubrulence in the chamber in the upper rpms. Take that off and put the stock intake back on. I'd bet you'll see better numbers then.
i second this..

i dynod at 233rwh with hks hi power exhaust ut carbon fiber intake and the 1/2 spacer from moderdyne.. and i think the spacer is jaking everything up...im gonna take mine off and dyno it again
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 04:59 AM
  #47  
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ohh i have a 05 g35 coupe 6spd
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 10:59 AM
  #48  
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what brand dyno is it?and is that the 300hp oem engine?
Originally Posted by paranormal
ohh i have a 05 g35 coupe 6spd
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 11:27 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by mikz350
dynoed my car today my best pull was 248.8whp and my lowest 240.4
my mod are test pipe,y pipe,spacer plenum,stock muffler,intake was took off in front of blower whit no filter for direct fresh air ,overall im not impress for does mod i was looking for 260 + my a/f is way to rich 12-11.5 in top end
the dyno brand is dynojet248 sae corrected whit 91oc fuel
im guessing that 05ecu is self ajusting whit no gain benefit
so let me know what you all thinking about it
that is definately surprising for the new engine. i recently got my 05 enth with 8800 miles dynoed on the dynojet and had a peak of almost 246hp and 231ft/lbs. do you think that running rich up top is taking away that much horsepower? also, what is your daily driving style? personally, i am 18 and i drive the car like it is a sports car. therefore, i am almost certain that the car has tuned itself for more fuel consumption.
Attached Thumbnails dynoed my 05 300hp engine whit few bolts on-dyno.jpg  
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Old Jun 8, 2005 | 05:00 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Acree
that is definately surprising for the new engine. i recently got my 05 enth with 8800 miles dynoed on the dynojet and had a peak of almost 246hp and 231ft/lbs. do you think that running rich up top is taking away that much horsepower? also, what is your daily driving style? personally, i am 18 and i drive the car like it is a sports car. therefore, i am almost certain that the car has tuned itself for more fuel consumption.
There are three basic maps that the ECU can select based on driving conditions. The trick to getting max dyno numbers is to take it out and really beat on it right before you hit the dyno. I mean take it out on the backroads near the shop and really run the car hard to redline. Pull directly up to the dyno and shut the car off. This will hopefully get the ECU in the advanced map which adjusts the AFR/timing for optimum power output.

I learned this the hard way and got some disapointing numbers when I dyno'd my car for the first time.
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 05:26 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by HarvesterUT
what do the 300hp engines baseline dyno at? cuz 248.8 is pretty high considering you only have test pipes and a y-pipe and spacer (only things making power).

do not forget that torque is what makes you accelerate faster, not HP. how did the torque curve change from stock baseline? doing a baseline run is the only way you can get close to seeing what power difference you are gaining.
I dynoed 247 Stock on a 03 so 248 with exhuast and intake sucks somthing is wrong with your car the air fuel is meesin it up. I also dynoed 260 with test pipes exhaust and plenum in 100+ degree heat and on a cold engine( I hate those bastards!)
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 06:26 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by supra crazy
I dynoed 247 Stock on a 03 so 248 with exhuast and intake sucks somthing is wrong with your car the air fuel is meesin it up. I also dynoed 260 with test pipes exhaust and plenum in 100+ degree heat and on a cold engine( I hate those bastards!)
There is nothing wrong with his car. Your 248 can NOT be compared to his 247, especially if done in different dyno machines. Different dyno machines can vary as much as 30hp with THE SAME CAR, never mind different cars. Take a look at this article on Turbo Magazine .

The only meaningful comparison that can be made is his 248 with intake and exhause with his own dyno result BEFORE he did intake and exhaust.
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 06:07 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by thawk408
I dynoed with 93 octane. I would bet that the lower numbers is b/c of the cel. I would highly recommend putting highflows, stock, or doing the o2 sensor mod and see if this helps raise the power.
You've got it right. I've been preaching this for a while now. Test pipes are really no good unless you are using forced induction.

Test pipes can hurt your acceleration.

Put on the high flows and you'll see some better numbers.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 07:23 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by jnkirk1974
You've got it right. I've been preaching this for a while now. Test pipes are really no good unless you are using forced induction.

Test pipes can hurt your acceleration.

Put on the high flows and you'll see some better numbers.

The ECU does not compensate for the cel light. The o2 sensors are reading that something is wrong and the ECU is throwing the light.....it has nothing to do with performance.

All you have to do to turn the cel off is buy spark plug non foulers. Do a seach for the help method.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 03:41 PM
  #55  
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I dyno'ed today and my results were dissapointing, especially with my new mods. UR claims 10-12hp and the Y-pipe claims 5-7 and the cats claim around 5-8
The strongest HP reading was 239 and the strongest trq was 234
I had previously clocked a 229 and 221 trq.
It was 95 degrees and 19% humidity.
Needless to say, i am dissapointed with these pulls. They did all my pulls in 3rd. Should it have been in 4th?
I noticed they did one pull in 4th and only got 202 hp my first time on the dyno. None in 4th the second time.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 04:10 PM
  #56  
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That is a 10hp gain. I dont think those hp claims are cumulative, meaning you just cant add them up and expect to get that gain - if that were the case, we would be getting 320whp with NA bolt on mods!!!! Also, some mods dont work well with each other, meaning they actually hurt performance when combined.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 04:12 PM
  #57  
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Well, i guess i picked the ones that do not compliment each other then.
I got decent torque but, expected more.
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Old Jun 13, 2005 | 11:55 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mikz350
what brand dyno is it?and is that the 300hp oem engine?
dont remember the brand dyno but it was at modified madness in carlilse PA at a car show.. and yes it is the 300hp oem engine
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 01:07 PM
  #59  
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When you dyno, always dyno two gears down from your top gear.

Meaning 6 MT ---> dynos in 4th.
5 AT ---> dynos in 3rd.


Im sure there is a better reason then the one im giving but it works for our cars.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Gators2001
When you dyno, always dyno two gears down from your top gear.

Meaning 6 MT ---> dynos in 4th.
5 AT ---> dynos in 3rd.


Im sure there is a better reason then the one im giving but it works for our cars.
thats strange. i never heard of that but i guess it works. i always thought that for the Z, the correct gear was 5th b/c it's a perfect 1:1 ratio?
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