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MREV V2 Independent Dyno Tested on Bone Stock 287HP Motor (Wired 24/7's 05 Touring)

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Old May 1, 2006 | 02:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I live in L.A. too, some 76 stations have 100 octane. It is $6.70/gal
$6.70/gal is not so bad considering dino poo 91 octane is going for $3.60 a gal where i am....lol
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Old May 1, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #22  
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it would be great to see dyno of mrev++ with spacer vs spacer only.
Mike
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Thanks for the graphs. My main concern is buying the 5/16 spacer and the mrev v2 but only needing one. I guess time will tell.

G
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Old May 2, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #24  
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hmmm i thought MREV was only for REVUP engine.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 05:06 AM
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TRUE.

MREV is only for the REVUP engine.
MREV+ or MREV2 is for any VQ.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 05:17 AM
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Sof or us Slow People what is the TOTAL COST for everything if we have the 287 Motor? (please dont ask us to look on the web-site, it is confusing).
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Old May 2, 2006 | 06:31 AM
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Well it depends on whether or not you want the Spacer or ISO Thermall in the 5/16th or 1/2 or just eh mrev+ v2.

The mrev+ V2 with core exchange is 122, when he puts it on sale, but you have to give a core deposit of 244 which gets refunded once your core is recvd.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 06:38 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FOO_G
Well it depends on whether or not you want the Spacer or ISO Thermall in the 5/16th or 1/2 or just eh mrev+ v2.

The mrev+ V2 with core exchange is 122, when he puts it on sale, but you have to give a core deposit of 244 which gets refunded once your core is recvd.
So $122 + The Cost of the Spacer (Not counting the Core Charge)

So with the iSO 5/16th Spacer the total cost would be $417 + Shipping.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 06:52 AM
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yeah that looks about right. That is about 30 dollars per HP gained.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
Well true, this combination makes good gains. But wait until I get my hands on the dynos of Baseline versus MREV V2 with no spacer.

The spacer actually does help, but only a little, because the flow of MREV V2 is already that much better than stock.

The truth of the matter is that once I put the spacer on, the ECU pulled timing to avoid knock. If you have access to something better than 91 octane then you will make better power from this mod because the ECU will not pull timing.
What was the leanest AFR and at what RPM did you get this condition with the spacer? Was this condition in combination with the modified lower plenum or was it just a spacer installed?

Just wondering...I'm detecting no knock on my MREV++ setup with a 5/16" spacer on my stock FX35. Only things extra are a K&N drop-in filter and a Z-tube.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:58 AM
  #31  
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a little OT: im afraid id be running a little lean with the MREV V2

i already have the spacer, a pop charger, and a catback and im getting some new cats soon.

does anyone have any thoughts on this...i plan to get an eManage ultimate but i dont want to until its absolutely necessary (i wanna get the most out of my mods by putting as many on before i have to tune)

does anyone have any thoughts?
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Old May 2, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #32  
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out of curiousity what other mods did this car have.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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wired24/7 was completely stock.

I was there at the dyno and was impressed with the hp gain when the modified plenum was installed. I cant wait to get mine so I can install it.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 12:41 PM
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Interesting. So with better Octane fuel, say 93-94. headers, resonated pipes, and a good intake system, he should see great gains.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 02:15 PM
  #35  
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you only gained 4 lbs of tq?
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Old May 2, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Fa1rLadyZ
you only gained 4 lbs of tq?
Peak torque gain does not mean much. If you look at the best baseline versus the best modded dyno, it is about 4 lbft at peak. However you can also see that it made torque gains throughout the entire RPM band, which is why you can REALLY feel this mod.

Look at 6000 RPM. 10 lbft gain of torque at 6k rpm roughly. Since horsepower = torque x constant x RPM , that's why it makes so much peak HP.

Also notice that after 4k RPM, the AFR stayed the same as stock. That means this is not just making power by leaning out the already-rich top end.

Another thing:

Note how the 3 baseline pulls get progressively worse and worse by as much as about 6hp. The highest HP is the first and best baseline, the lowest HP is the third and worst baseline.

The dyno operator explained that this is typical and is essentially caused by heat soak.

The isothermal gasket helps significantly with heat soak so you can see, the 3 modded pulls are more consistent than the 3 baseline pulls.

Last edited by Wired 24/7; May 2, 2006 at 03:28 PM.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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Thanks for the great writeup Mike. I might be doing this in the coming weeks.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 03:35 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ATL_Red_G35
Interesting. So with better Octane fuel, say 93-94. headers, resonated pipes, and a good intake system, he should see great gains.
Yes, a better flowing exhaust system might help, but in reality I think the stock exhaust should be pretty good just combined with some high flow cats. I am not going for test pipes due to california emissions etc.

I mention keeping stock exhaust because bigger exhaust does not necessarily mean better. Maintaining a high exhaust velocity is important (velocity decreases with increasing diameter). But you also don't want a lot of backpressure. So keeping a modest diameter but reducing restriction by replacing the stock cats could potentially help a lot. I am not 100% sure about what I am saying here, but this is what my engineering intuition tells me. I am not trying to bash aftermarket exhaust systems.

If I could get a tune for cheap (hoping for some cheap e-manage ultimates to show up) then this could make even more power and prevent knock better than simply adding higher octane gas.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by OCG35Coupe
1 I didn't see listed was at La Paz and the 5 freeway right next to Mcdonalds...my area
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:16 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
...I mention keeping stock exhaust because bigger exhaust does not necessarily mean better. Maintaining a high exhaust velocity is important (velocity decreases with increasing diameter). But you also don't want a lot of backpressure. So keeping a modest diameter but reducing restriction by replacing the stock cats could potentially help a lot. I am not 100% sure about what I am saying here, but this is what my engineering intuition tells me. I am not trying to bash aftermarket exhaust systems...
It makes sense what you're saying about velocity but the stock piping is too restrictive for backpresure and velocity.
Stock flows down to 2 inches
I made power switching from my Talon from 2" stock to 3" mandrel bent. Anything larger and I would have lost velocity. Like blowing through paper towel tube and blowing through a straw. You feel more air velocity through the straw. The straw is too small and the paper towel tube is too big so the trick is the happy medium. I have the Ti single tip MagnaFlow which is 3.5". I can feel plenty of velocity with my hand just behind the tip
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