JWT pop charger VS. Injen VS. AEM for sound and performance
JWT pop charger VS. Injen VS. AEM for sound and performance, which do you guys thinks sounds the best for the HP??
Do they all sound the same? From what I have read, injen and AEM have the most gains thus far, but can their sound compare the JWT?????
Do they all sound the same? From what I have read, injen and AEM have the most gains thus far, but can their sound compare the JWT?????
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From: Where I have yet to cross another Lemans Z!?
well I just saw the before and after dyno from Lemans350Z's runs with the Injen and it didnt even make 1.0HP over stock! And the ft lbs was about 2.5 I think. MUCH MUCH lower than what they claim! Anyone have an AEM before and after??
I posted back to back Dyno graphs that showed 3RWHP and 20 lbs of Torque from my Injen CAI!
Hogan,
Since I think you are switching some exhaust parts soon my 2 cents is the CAI over the JWT Pop Charger.
Less restrictive exhaust with more cold air in will provide better results performance wise. Exhaust out = good, cold air in - good win win situation and with 3 chambers back pressure will not be an issue, I think you will really like the growl with the Injen CAI too.
Of course this is an opinion, but I went down the road you are going down already and backed it with Dyno numbers.
Hogan,
Since I think you are switching some exhaust parts soon my 2 cents is the CAI over the JWT Pop Charger.
Less restrictive exhaust with more cold air in will provide better results performance wise. Exhaust out = good, cold air in - good win win situation and with 3 chambers back pressure will not be an issue, I think you will really like the growl with the Injen CAI too.
Of course this is an opinion, but I went down the road you are going down already and backed it with Dyno numbers.
Originally posted by MaxHax
I posted back to back Dyno graphs that showed 3RWHP and 20 lbs of Torque from my Injen CAI!
Hogan,
Since I think you are switching some exhaust parts soon my 2 cents is the CAI over the JWT Pop Charger.
Less restrictive exhaust with more cold air in will provide better results performance wise. Exhaust out = good, cold air in - good win win situation and with 3 chambers back pressure will not be an issue, I think you will really like the growl with the Injen CAI too.
Of course this is an opinion, but I went down the road you are going down already and backed it with Dyno numbers.
I posted back to back Dyno graphs that showed 3RWHP and 20 lbs of Torque from my Injen CAI!
Hogan,
Since I think you are switching some exhaust parts soon my 2 cents is the CAI over the JWT Pop Charger.
Less restrictive exhaust with more cold air in will provide better results performance wise. Exhaust out = good, cold air in - good win win situation and with 3 chambers back pressure will not be an issue, I think you will really like the growl with the Injen CAI too.
Of course this is an opinion, but I went down the road you are going down already and backed it with Dyno numbers.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Where I have yet to cross another Lemans Z!?
Originally posted by MaxHax
I posted back to back Dyno graphs that showed 3RWHP and 20 lbs of Torque from my Injen CAI!
I posted back to back Dyno graphs that showed 3RWHP and 20 lbs of Torque from my Injen CAI!
im looking over your pics and see that there is also a few exhaust mods / changes that were being done. 20ft lbs to the wheels, hell even to the crank is nothing less than a bolt-on part miracle!! is this along side your exhaust mods too? or are you saying that you did a 100% stock baseline run to get you numbers, installed ONLY the Injen intake, ran it again and you ended up with 3hp and 20ft lbs more at the wheels from ONLLY the intake?????
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Use the search button, I'm not gonna help people who don't believe me in the first place. I gained 20 pounds from the Injen only.
The only thing changed from Dyno 1 to Dyno 2 was the Injen, so any improvement my exhaust had provided was not a factor.
I was only have way through doing my exhaust anyway. If you don't want the Injen don't buy it, it's as simple as that.
I just happen to know what order to do my mods in that's all.
No,
I don't think they would. Why didn't they give us a grounding kit either? It is a good mod. Why didn't they include it?
Heck why didn't they give is true dual? You get where I am going with your question don't you?
The only thing changed from Dyno 1 to Dyno 2 was the Injen, so any improvement my exhaust had provided was not a factor.
I was only have way through doing my exhaust anyway. If you don't want the Injen don't buy it, it's as simple as that.
I just happen to know what order to do my mods in that's all.
I'm with kj-350 if 20ftlbs was possible from only a cai don't you think nissan would have done it?
I don't think they would. Why didn't they give us a grounding kit either? It is a good mod. Why didn't they include it?
Heck why didn't they give is true dual? You get where I am going with your question don't you?
Originally posted by MaxHax
Use the search button, I'm not gonna help people who don't believe me in the first place. I gained 20 pounds from the Injen only.
The only thing changed from Dyno 1 to Dyno 2 was the Injen, so any improvement my exhaust had provided was not a factor.
I was only have way through doing my exhaust anyway. If you don't want the Injen don't buy it, it's as simple as that.
I just happen to know what order to do my mods in that's all.
No,
I don't think they would. Why didn't they give us a grounding kit either? It is a good mod. Why didn't they include it?
Heck why didn't they give is true dual? You get where I am going with your question don't you?
Use the search button, I'm not gonna help people who don't believe me in the first place. I gained 20 pounds from the Injen only.
The only thing changed from Dyno 1 to Dyno 2 was the Injen, so any improvement my exhaust had provided was not a factor.
I was only have way through doing my exhaust anyway. If you don't want the Injen don't buy it, it's as simple as that.
I just happen to know what order to do my mods in that's all.
No,
I don't think they would. Why didn't they give us a grounding kit either? It is a good mod. Why didn't they include it?
Heck why didn't they give is true dual? You get where I am going with your question don't you?
KJ-350
I believe you,...saw your dyno's and I will still get it.,.and his are Great w/o a ECU upgrade!! This Bolt-on and Many others will not show gains like they should untill JWT or someone comes out w/ a damn ECU uprgrade--the ECU is just too damn Picky,..thats why it really isn't all that much power!But might as well get one(if you were anyway) and enjoy the little power that it will give you & wait on the ECU---I swear,its gonna Blow your mind!!
Thats all this damn OBD III peice of **** needs!
But dyno's are all different--and some better then others or just conditions better then others----for instance:
Look @ Stock 1/4 times for factory cars---different companies or Magazines get diff #'s all the time,..
I saw one where Motor Trend got a 14.8 stock out of a RSX-S(possible),..but damn Sport compact car only got a damn 15.1--thats a big difference!! I'd damn sure pay for a mod like that---to jump .2 in the 1/4...that would be Great!
I guess its just timing and I don't think its that dyno's lie,..but conditions are everything,..just like 1/4 racing!--if its too hot,..you'll most likely run slower--too cold,...same way,..track will suck!
I'm still gettin mine,..now more cuz of the Blk hoses!
AEM has and will always be tryin to catch up to INJEN now,.they have tottaly re-designed their INtakes around INJEN''s,...INJEN is the **** for the RSX-S/WRX,.etc...everyone suggests it!!
So I'll stick w/ INJEN one more time!
I'll damn sure take 20lbs trq for my "baby'!If I get that?
I believe you,...saw your dyno's and I will still get it.,.and his are Great w/o a ECU upgrade!! This Bolt-on and Many others will not show gains like they should untill JWT or someone comes out w/ a damn ECU uprgrade--the ECU is just too damn Picky,..thats why it really isn't all that much power!But might as well get one(if you were anyway) and enjoy the little power that it will give you & wait on the ECU---I swear,its gonna Blow your mind!!
Thats all this damn OBD III peice of **** needs!
But dyno's are all different--and some better then others or just conditions better then others----for instance:
Look @ Stock 1/4 times for factory cars---different companies or Magazines get diff #'s all the time,..
I saw one where Motor Trend got a 14.8 stock out of a RSX-S(possible),..but damn Sport compact car only got a damn 15.1--thats a big difference!! I'd damn sure pay for a mod like that---to jump .2 in the 1/4...that would be Great!
I guess its just timing and I don't think its that dyno's lie,..but conditions are everything,..just like 1/4 racing!--if its too hot,..you'll most likely run slower--too cold,...same way,..track will suck!
I'm still gettin mine,..now more cuz of the Blk hoses!
AEM has and will always be tryin to catch up to INJEN now,.they have tottaly re-designed their INtakes around INJEN''s,...INJEN is the **** for the RSX-S/WRX,.etc...everyone suggests it!!
So I'll stick w/ INJEN one more time!
I'll damn sure take 20lbs trq for my "baby'!If I get that?
**If** this is true
We don't work for Injen? "If" this is true?
It happened bud and I posted the Dyno charts get over it.
And nissan did not go true dual because it is not giving any real permormance gains.
Go tell that to someone else who doesn't know anything about how exhaust works, maybe they will believe you.
True dual with headers on this car would make it flat out fly.
If you look at MaxHax's dyno, you will see that all the torque comes in a big lump under 3000 RPM. I'm not sure if those numbers can be considered reliable, because after the REV's pass 3000, the torque curve looks pretty much the same as the stock.
I think the 3 RWHP gain is pretty accurate, because that happens at the upper end of the rev range, but I don't trust the 20 lb-ft of torque simply because the graph is not smooth at all.
MaxHax, do you have an automatic or something that would allow the engine to do some weird revving down low? I still don't understand how that dyno graph you posted would get that way.
-D'oh!
Edit: Here is a link to MaxHax's Thread - https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=17513
I also see that you do have an auto transmission. Do you think that might have anything to do with the strange hump?
-D!
I think the 3 RWHP gain is pretty accurate, because that happens at the upper end of the rev range, but I don't trust the 20 lb-ft of torque simply because the graph is not smooth at all.
MaxHax, do you have an automatic or something that would allow the engine to do some weird revving down low? I still don't understand how that dyno graph you posted would get that way.
-D'oh!
Edit: Here is a link to MaxHax's Thread - https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=17513
I also see that you do have an auto transmission. Do you think that might have anything to do with the strange hump?
-D!
Last edited by D'oh; Feb 14, 2003 at 08:05 AM.
Hey Doh!
To be honest I think your assement of the Dyno torque is probably due to the Dyno Jet Operator, I don't think he really knows how to Dyno Auto's, he usually does Manuals.
They also just got this Dyno and are sort of new to it. They used to be a SMOG Shop but were not making much money anymore so this is their new investment (and probably a good one.)
For instance my old guy used to have a hand held thing he used to lock up the torque converter with (my TC was after market in that car) and he had allot of experience with the Dyno. He also checked my A/F for free.
They (Marco Automotive) also didn't use the 1-1 gear so the base should have been higher. But to be fair I made them do the Dyno after the Injen CAI in the *same* gear for a fair and accurate assement. I am pretty sure part of the torque gain came from more hot exhaust being able to escape in conjuction with the CAI. I also read recently that basicly stock Z's are suffering the most at the high end, not mid and low.
When (*if* arghh) I get my car back from Hot Rot Imports with my Zex Kit I am gonna put a few more miles on it (I want to do the next Dyno at 5k miles, I hear you get a gain around then) I currently am getting close to 4k miles. I am gonna ask them to let me sit in the car and do it myself, because he is in manual mode going through the gears and missing shifts etc, he hit the rev limiter once even. I will get N/A and N20 numbers both.
I think my numbers should be higher with my setup, but I am not too worried about it. If I don't break 14.0 N/A at the track *then* I will start to worry and question my mods
I have observed on many occasions cars that dynoed as much as 20HP less beat the same model cars by as much as .3 tenths!
The guy who paid all the money for all these Dyno's that lost really gets pissed. He lives at the Dyno tweaking his A/F etc and always loses anyway even though he dyno's higher LOL!
To be honest I think your assement of the Dyno torque is probably due to the Dyno Jet Operator, I don't think he really knows how to Dyno Auto's, he usually does Manuals.
They also just got this Dyno and are sort of new to it. They used to be a SMOG Shop but were not making much money anymore so this is their new investment (and probably a good one.)
For instance my old guy used to have a hand held thing he used to lock up the torque converter with (my TC was after market in that car) and he had allot of experience with the Dyno. He also checked my A/F for free.
They (Marco Automotive) also didn't use the 1-1 gear so the base should have been higher. But to be fair I made them do the Dyno after the Injen CAI in the *same* gear for a fair and accurate assement. I am pretty sure part of the torque gain came from more hot exhaust being able to escape in conjuction with the CAI. I also read recently that basicly stock Z's are suffering the most at the high end, not mid and low.
When (*if* arghh) I get my car back from Hot Rot Imports with my Zex Kit I am gonna put a few more miles on it (I want to do the next Dyno at 5k miles, I hear you get a gain around then) I currently am getting close to 4k miles. I am gonna ask them to let me sit in the car and do it myself, because he is in manual mode going through the gears and missing shifts etc, he hit the rev limiter once even. I will get N/A and N20 numbers both.
I think my numbers should be higher with my setup, but I am not too worried about it. If I don't break 14.0 N/A at the track *then* I will start to worry and question my mods
I have observed on many occasions cars that dynoed as much as 20HP less beat the same model cars by as much as .3 tenths!
The guy who paid all the money for all these Dyno's that lost really gets pissed. He lives at the Dyno tweaking his A/F etc and always loses anyway even though he dyno's higher LOL!
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