intake/exhaust rumor
i dont know how valid this statement was but i have heard that if you get the wrong intake / exhaust setup you can actually lose horsepower. this being said whether it is true or not what would be the best intake for my magnaflow exhaust that i just bought.
p.s i dont know how you would lose horsepower by opening things up but i could be wrong.
p.s i dont know how you would lose horsepower by opening things up but i could be wrong.
Originally Posted by Sunset350ZR
I would think that if you openid up the exhaust to much you would decrease exhaust velocity therefore causing a loss of tq and thus horsepower.
so me having the magnaflow catback, what would be the bets intake for me to purchase?
I think you'll find that most (most, not all) exhaust companies have done a bit of research and have made something that will generally give you more power. I think that point will only really apply if you were making your own exhaust, and you made it something ridiculous like 4inches in diameter right from the manifold, then you would loose exhaust velocity. But for the most part, any aftermarket exhaust mated to an aftermarket intake, should give you a bit more power.
Intake and exhaust mods alter the torque and horsepower curves. The results of every potential combination is unpredictable. That is why 350Z owners, after completing intake and exhaust mods, get a ECU tune.
After putting on new intake/exhaust systems you may not notice substantial HP / Tq gains. However you may notice improved throttle response, which will also enhance your driving experience.
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Exhausts and intakes aren't that restrictive on the Z yet.. At most you can gain 15hp from both. The best bang/buck would be test pipes and an intake manifold. 400 dollars from that can net you 20-25hp depending on your stock tune, and up to 40rwhp if you can get ur self a tune. Everything after that is cherry.
The best difference I noticed was from test pipes..
The best difference I noticed was from test pipes..
the stock intake/exhaust these days on most cars are really well designed to maximise the power. the days for cheap power are pretty much over(especially for na cars)
there still is some compromise made due to noise/smog/cost issues.
so as long you get an exhaust from a reputable company nismo/greddy/hks etc. the power gains are going to be pretty comparable.
just don't get a 3" exhaust for an NA car
there still is some compromise made due to noise/smog/cost issues.
so as long you get an exhaust from a reputable company nismo/greddy/hks etc. the power gains are going to be pretty comparable.
just don't get a 3" exhaust for an NA car
Originally Posted by deluzrider
i dont know how valid this statement was but i have heard that if you get the wrong intake / exhaust setup you can actually lose horsepower. this being said whether it is true or not what would be the best intake for my magnaflow exhaust that i just bought.
p.s i dont know how you would lose horsepower by opening things up but i could be wrong.
p.s i dont know how you would lose horsepower by opening things up but i could be wrong.
Old thread I know, but just doing some of my own research and came acorss this thread. I'm gonna try and answer your original question for you.
Let's use different straws for this example.
Think of your "stock" setup as one of those dinky little red and white coffee stir sticks. Try and blow as much air through that straw as you can. Pretty restrictive huh?
Well, think of an "optimum" set up as upgrading to your standard drive-thru straw that you get in a soda. Much easier to blow air though right?
Now, it would be easy to assume that the more air you can push through the straw the better. Right? Wrong. With no straw, push out all the air in your lungs....sounds like that 80 year old guy next to you in line at the DMV - Weak. You want a certian ammount of back presssure in the system otherwise you'll start to lose power/torque.
Lame I know, but that's the best way I can describe it.
-J
Originally Posted by DeVus32v
Old thread I know, but just doing some of my own research and came acorss this thread. I'm gonna try and answer your original question for you.
Let's use different straws for this example.
Think of your "stock" setup as one of those dinky little red and white coffee stir sticks. Try and blow as much air through that straw as you can. Pretty restrictive huh?
Well, think of an "optimum" set up as upgrading to your standard drive-thru straw that you get in a soda. Much easier to blow air though right?
Now, it would be easy to assume that the more air you can push through the straw the better. Right? Wrong. With no straw, push out all the air in your lungs....sounds like that 80 year old guy next to you in line at the DMV - Weak. You want a certian ammount of back presssure in the system otherwise you'll start to lose power/torque.
Lame I know, but that's the best way I can describe it.
-J
Let's use different straws for this example.
Think of your "stock" setup as one of those dinky little red and white coffee stir sticks. Try and blow as much air through that straw as you can. Pretty restrictive huh?
Well, think of an "optimum" set up as upgrading to your standard drive-thru straw that you get in a soda. Much easier to blow air though right?
Now, it would be easy to assume that the more air you can push through the straw the better. Right? Wrong. With no straw, push out all the air in your lungs....sounds like that 80 year old guy next to you in line at the DMV - Weak. You want a certian ammount of back presssure in the system otherwise you'll start to lose power/torque.
Lame I know, but that's the best way I can describe it.
-J
small dia. straw= good velocity/ strong signal
large dia. straw @ same breathing capacity= bad velocity and loss of signal strength
now, the larger will gain it's strength if your motor is intaking and expelling larger amounts of air. signal strength will still be less at lower rpms, but as velocity raises, a ram effect can be created and the velocity and strength will equalize again. but as said above, the intake and exhaust ports are optimized pretty good from a high volume manufacturing stand point (nissan) on most of the newer cars for a stock motor.
but yes, more power is to be had with the right combo..
Originally Posted by charlie_rdstr_Z
I dyno higher with just an exhaust than a lot of other people with bolt ons. I took out my intake because it sucked hot air and pinged.
Originally Posted by DeVus32v
Old thread I know, but just doing some of my own research and came acorss this thread. I'm gonna try and answer your original question for you.
Let's use different straws for this example.
Think of your "stock" setup as one of those dinky little red and white coffee stir sticks. Try and blow as much air through that straw as you can. Pretty restrictive huh?
Well, think of an "optimum" set up as upgrading to your standard drive-thru straw that you get in a soda. Much easier to blow air though right?
Now, it would be easy to assume that the more air you can push through the straw the better. Right? Wrong. With no straw, push out all the air in your lungs....sounds like that 80 year old guy next to you in line at the DMV - Weak. You want a certian ammount of back presssure in the system otherwise you'll start to lose power/torque.
Lame I know, but that's the best way I can describe it.
-J
Let's use different straws for this example.
Think of your "stock" setup as one of those dinky little red and white coffee stir sticks. Try and blow as much air through that straw as you can. Pretty restrictive huh?
Well, think of an "optimum" set up as upgrading to your standard drive-thru straw that you get in a soda. Much easier to blow air though right?
Now, it would be easy to assume that the more air you can push through the straw the better. Right? Wrong. With no straw, push out all the air in your lungs....sounds like that 80 year old guy next to you in line at the DMV - Weak. You want a certian ammount of back presssure in the system otherwise you'll start to lose power/torque.
Lame I know, but that's the best way I can describe it.
-J
^ +1...
And a side note, I'm in the low end for about half a second while in 1st gear. After that point it's 4k plus from there on out, obviously at WOT, lol...
I guess I would be more worried if my car redlined at 4k...
Zquicksilver
And a side note, I'm in the low end for about half a second while in 1st gear. After that point it's 4k plus from there on out, obviously at WOT, lol...
I guess I would be more worried if my car redlined at 4k...

Zquicksilver
Originally Posted by Zquicksilver
^ +1...
And a side note, I'm in the low end for about half a second while in 1st gear. After that point it's 4k plus from there on out, obviously at WOT, lol...
I guess I would be more worried if my car redlined at 4k...
Zquicksilver
And a side note, I'm in the low end for about half a second while in 1st gear. After that point it's 4k plus from there on out, obviously at WOT, lol...
I guess I would be more worried if my car redlined at 4k...

Zquicksilver
Originally Posted by undrgnd
You are absolutely wrong. Backpressure is not a prerequisite for anything. Exhaust velocity is what you need to hold on to torque at the low end. The 'you need backpressure' myth has been debunked long ago. Search and you shall be enlightened, and stop spreading misinformation.
Ok cool guy
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SKiDaZZLe
2003-2009 Nissan 350Z
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Mar 9, 2003 12:22 PM




