greddyturb0

iTrader: (9)

N/A bolt ons have the worst hp to dollar ratio but for a DD its the best you can do, everyone knows that reliability goes down the sh!tter when you go FI. and as wel all know you have to pay to play especially when your buying a car with a high MSRP you know the aftermarket will be expensive but if your a cheapo and want more bang for your buck you shouldve gone with a honda.

13SECZ

iTrader: (4)

Lol...first off i dont buy hondas...and 29 k for a new car is not that expensive..i agree that reliability worstens with f/i...and im not a cheapo..just careful with my cash...just think the bang for the buck is low with the z...i know of alot of n/a's that do well with bolt ons..im not bashing my car, just opening up things for debate..

greddyturb0

iTrader: (9)

not saying that you are a cheapo but hey i feel what your saying but you have to realise that hondas are some of the cheapest cars to mod and respond very well to bolt ons. i dont like hondas either because everyones got one now a days, but if you want cheap power get a honda.

13SECZ

iTrader: (4)

No i hear u...but im jus sayin that i didnt spen 1k...not 2 k...i spent over 3k..yhat should yield better results..i dont by knock offs or cheaper brands...just venting...again thank god our cars look hot

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

that's because it only had 190 hp.....

the VQ responds quite well to the right mods and the right tuning - it's not a cheap car to build, no matter what route you do.

greddyturb0

iTrader: (9)

in almost any circumstance you will spend almost just as much money on Bolt ons for N/A as comapred to a FI kit and still not get as much horse power, but lets face it if you gained almost 100hp from just bolt ons who would even go the route of FI? going FI on a N/A is asking for trouble. thats why many people prefer the low number of hp the bolt ons provide because you can still retain your reliability to some extent.

bacalhau16

iTrader: (32)

See, I dont understand why people think that either. There is also a large group on this board that feels with the amount spent on N/A, you could go F/I. Well thats a sack of crap. All money spent on N/A w/out cams, and you still should be around $3k. Sure you can find a used ST kit for this much, or a used Vortec, but then you would only have a stock Z with F/I. You would still need an exhaust in the least, a plenum spacer surely wouldnt hurt, and a set of headers would go nicely with a S/C car.
So basically, people need to get off this idea that N/A is a complete waste, and you could just go F/I because its really not true at all.

Track

A lot of the F/I guys are under the false impression that we all want an F/I application. Nothing could be further from the truth. Another false assumption is that our choice is dictated by cost. Big mistake. Many of us knowingly spend more on N/A mods for less hp as a matter of personal preference.

I am going F/I later on, myself. But it will no longer be my daily driver at that point.

civic4982

iTrader: (9)

nice ricer math there.

when dyno'd, mods do not give a
"x + y + z = number of HP"
the system (engine) is affected in general and therefore the next breather mod put on may not get the same amount of power as it would if it were put on from a dyno'd comparison of the stock model.

this is a common misconception. get your facts straight before giving bad advice.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

My philosophy is that I want my build to be as close to 100% reliable as possible. Ie. NA. Within that reliability envelope, I will build / tune for the most HP I can get.

When this car is no longer a daily driver, the (less inherent reliability & shortened life-span of the car) that FI causes, would make more sense.

It's nice to have 600whp and all, but it doesn't do you much good if your engine grenades or you're constantly fixing little stuff that breaks because of the added stress of FI... Here's an example...
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/277402-maintaining-an-turboed-z-an-example.html

One of my guy friends was telling me that going FI is a balancing act... Like trying to lean back in a chair and balancing on the back two legs without falling. It can be done, but it ain't easy without constant adjustments to your balance. And if you fall, it hurts.

13SECZ

iTrader: (4)

Your friend is right on the bnalancin act. When i built the wrx it was supposed to be "bulletproof" from the motor to the trans...well after 40k spent...it r, good till coilpacks went, spark plugs, alternators, valves, misfires, tuning issues, etc..it never ended a huge money pit..but yeah i would def do it again..

Power is like heroin , once u have it, u always want/need it. Ur hooked for life!

13SECZ

iTrader: (4)

Your friend is right on the bnalancin act. When i built the wrx it was supposed to be "bulletproof" from the motor to the trans...well after 40k spent...it r, good till coilpacks went, spark plugs, alternators, valves, misfires, tuning issues, etc..it never ended a huge money pit..but yeah i would def do it again..

Power is like heroin , once u have it, u always want/need it. Ur hooked for life!

SirSpeedyZ

iTrader: (10)

that is depressing, with how much it costs

doug

iTrader: (5)

yes

doug

iTrader: (5)

no it doesn't

yoichi

iTrader: (4)

How the heck did you do that??? on what dyno???

yoichi

iTrader: (4)

OK, I have almost all N/A but I ditched the intake in favor of a drop in and threw my topspeed exhaust in the garbage and got a full cat-back TurboXS Exhaust.

My old setup

UTEC
UTR Test pipes
Topspeed Exhaust
UTR Crank Pulley
Injen Short Ram
AAM Spacer

267 whp

probably just under 30whp

13SECZ

iTrader: (4)

I made 27 whp on my 99 max with an intake, race pipe, and a catback..only cost me 1500...hard to argue...but then again i started lower...

doug

iTrader: (5)

you are dreaming... 5spd 99's dyno'd 170 whp .. 27whp would give you 197 whp.. you are dreaming if you dyno'd that.. to get even close to 200 whp on a 99 you would need y pipe, CAI, JWT ECU, 2000 Maxima Variable Intake, and catback..

looks like someone was playing with your dyno numbers



here are close to your mods http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=277091

so at best.. you were looking at 4 - 8 whp with your mods depending on yoru baseline

Track

The Z gains less with each mod only because it came so well-engineered from the factory. Headers don't help as much as they do on some cars because the new Z already has equal-length, tuned tubing from the factory. Aftermarket CAI doesn't help as much, because the car already has CAI... and so on.

If an AEM CAI gives a car 10 hp, then its factory intake must have really sucked (but not in the good way).

That is what makes squeezing even more N/A hp out of the Z such a challenge, and what makes success at such an endeaver so rewarding. This car demands that you do your homework and think really hard before you are going to out-do what the Nissan engineers have provided.

That speaks very well of the science and engineering behind the Z's design and reinforces my confindence in my choice to buy the new Z.