5/16 MD Plenum Spacer Installed. Having Idling Problems...
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From: Down Under & Dirty
I'm using the complete ARC intake system. Intake pipe and induction box, with the stock MAF sensor and housing. I installed the plenum spacer 1st, the intake system sometime afterwards. The idle issue happened months after that. I can not recall the exact dates though...
CAI's very commonly cause stalling in the manner you describe.
If installed correctly the MD spacer design makes them highly resistant to leaks.
I really don't think Vo has a plenum leak. Leaks produce different effects.
I'm thinking its either the TB or CAI. Both of which cause the described symptoms.
Vo, start with the stock air box. That should make an easy step to trouble shoot in a process of elimination.
I really don't think Vo has a plenum leak. Leaks produce different effects.
I'm thinking its either the TB or CAI. Both of which cause the described symptoms.
Vo, start with the stock air box. That should make an easy step to trouble shoot in a process of elimination.
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Is there any other trouble shooting method I could start with Tony? Perhaps cleaning the MAF? It is extremely tedious to remove anything from the ARC intake system...
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Did you try reset your ecu?
It happend when i install headers. Let me post that add.
Edit:
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...l-headers.html
Edit:
Q: Do you remember outside temp?
It happend when i install headers. Let me post that add.
Edit:
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...l-headers.html
Edit:
Q: Do you remember outside temp?
Last edited by Chef-J; Feb 13, 2009 at 08:51 PM.
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Werd. I reset it back in October, the 1st time I retorqued the bolts.
I tell you what guys. I'm gonna wait until the morning. I'll check for obvious leaks, check the MAF and spray contact cleaner on it, check bolt torque, then reset the ECU. I'll report what I find tomorrow. We'll go from there and figure out what's going on. I love all the suggestions and input. Thanks guys...
I tell you what guys. I'm gonna wait until the morning. I'll check for obvious leaks, check the MAF and spray contact cleaner on it, check bolt torque, then reset the ECU. I'll report what I find tomorrow. We'll go from there and figure out what's going on. I love all the suggestions and input. Thanks guys...
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Werd. I reset it back in October, the 1st time I retorqued the bolts.
I tell you what guys. I'm gonna wait until the morning. I'll check for obvious leaks, check the MAF and spray contact cleaner on it, check bolt torque, then reset the ECU. I'll report what I find tomorrow. We'll go from there and figure out what's going on. I love all the suggestions and input. Thanks guys...
I tell you what guys. I'm gonna wait until the morning. I'll check for obvious leaks, check the MAF and spray contact cleaner on it, check bolt torque, then reset the ECU. I'll report what I find tomorrow. We'll go from there and figure out what's going on. I love all the suggestions and input. Thanks guys...
I still do having issue sometimes when it's cold outside ( not when car is warm tho ).
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So far, from what I've experienced, its happened only when the car reaches operating temp and when its between 60-85 degrees farenheit outside.
For all I know, the last time I torqued the bolts, it could've not been the true fix. I did reset the ECU immediately after torquing the bolts. Perhaps it was the ECU all along. I'll reset the ECU tomorrow before I do anything else, then test it out to see if the problem clears...
For all I know, the last time I torqued the bolts, it could've not been the true fix. I did reset the ECU immediately after torquing the bolts. Perhaps it was the ECU all along. I'll reset the ECU tomorrow before I do anything else, then test it out to see if the problem clears...
The best way (I can think) of is to trouble shoot starting with the air box.
I had the Stillen CAI a few years back and had that exact problem you describe Vo. I've seen many others on the forums here with after installing a pop-charger or similar.
JWT came out with a stall fix for their pop-charger and published a document on their website for it. They are having the same stalling problem with the pop-charger. The document was posted on the forums here but I can't remember where. It should still be available.
The stall fix for the pop-charger should be the same for any other CAI.
I had the Stillen CAI a few years back and had that exact problem you describe Vo. I've seen many others on the forums here with after installing a pop-charger or similar.
JWT came out with a stall fix for their pop-charger and published a document on their website for it. They are having the same stalling problem with the pop-charger. The document was posted on the forums here but I can't remember where. It should still be available.
The stall fix for the pop-charger should be the same for any other CAI.
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Interesting. I know where I might be able to find that document on another site. I'll have to wait until Monday to use a real PC. I'm on my Blackberry right now...
After reading what Hydrazine said, I'm going to go with what he said. I know when my friend had an issue with his plenum spacer the idle was consistently rough and/or shutting off. Not sporadic or solely after hitting the throttle. Check the bolts anyway, but I'm willing to bet they're alright.
On my old car tons of guys had idle issues due to a dirty MAF. The fix was simple, spray it with brake cleaner (certain kind, I forget) clean over it VERY VERY lightly with a Q-Tip (soaked in brake cleaner) and reinstall, making sure not to touch it. After that, problem gone. Although, I think if it was an MAF you would have a rough idle and maybe some stalling... or possibly even slight bogging.
I would look into that throttle position issue (I remember reading about that some time ago as well) and as a last resort, try the factory air box (what a PITA to put that back in).
On my old car tons of guys had idle issues due to a dirty MAF. The fix was simple, spray it with brake cleaner (certain kind, I forget) clean over it VERY VERY lightly with a Q-Tip (soaked in brake cleaner) and reinstall, making sure not to touch it. After that, problem gone. Although, I think if it was an MAF you would have a rough idle and maybe some stalling... or possibly even slight bogging.
I would look into that throttle position issue (I remember reading about that some time ago as well) and as a last resort, try the factory air box (what a PITA to put that back in).
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Sorry guys, it took awhile to get around to messing with the car since I just had a kid recently.
I tackled the project Saturday. Not all of it, but I did try one thing. I removed the plastic engine cover and checked bolt torque. The rear bolts(closest to firewall) had lost some torque. One bolt that sits by the throttle body had a heavy scent of fuel/oil on it and also had heavy residue on it as well. I figured this one vibrated loose the most out of all of them. All the plenum bolts located infront of the strut bar were fine. They had not lost any torque. The center bolts, I left alone since they already have loc-tite on them. I went ahead and cleaned the rear plenum bolts up, applied a dab of medium strength loc-tite to them(blue), then re-torqued them. I did not perform the ECU reset procedure this time.
I let the loc-tite cure over night. The next day I test drove the Z. Let it reach operating temperature. Same problem exist. Tony was right, it's not a plenum spacer vacuum problem. I'll try something new. Maybe clean the MAF this time, although I doubt it's dirty. The car is garage kept, never driving in the rain, and has very little miles on it...
I tackled the project Saturday. Not all of it, but I did try one thing. I removed the plastic engine cover and checked bolt torque. The rear bolts(closest to firewall) had lost some torque. One bolt that sits by the throttle body had a heavy scent of fuel/oil on it and also had heavy residue on it as well. I figured this one vibrated loose the most out of all of them. All the plenum bolts located infront of the strut bar were fine. They had not lost any torque. The center bolts, I left alone since they already have loc-tite on them. I went ahead and cleaned the rear plenum bolts up, applied a dab of medium strength loc-tite to them(blue), then re-torqued them. I did not perform the ECU reset procedure this time.
I let the loc-tite cure over night. The next day I test drove the Z. Let it reach operating temperature. Same problem exist. Tony was right, it's not a plenum spacer vacuum problem. I'll try something new. Maybe clean the MAF this time, although I doubt it's dirty. The car is garage kept, never driving in the rain, and has very little miles on it...
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Yes. On the last page.
You can download it here: http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.htm
Note - The pedal procedure can be tricky. Its like tapping morse code into the gas pedal. Not easy but its doable.
You can download it here: http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.htm
Note - The pedal procedure can be tricky. Its like tapping morse code into the gas pedal. Not easy but its doable.



