just put dynamat on everything.

 

Interesting Thread, I'm experience some of these same symptoms with my Powerlab 3/8ths Plenum Spacer. I'm experiencing a semi-Rough idle, alot of vibration. I'll check to see if its hitting the strutbar, and make sure to re-torque all the bolts.

I didnt Reset the ECU after installing the spacer. Do i have to do this?

 

I believe it's just the Throttle Body that is the important one to reset. I can't remember.

On a side note, I had my ECU reflashed with Uprev. The tuner raised my idle to 850rpm. Runs like a champ. No bogging down at all...

 

Wait what?? Reset the throttle body? What are you guys talking about? I didn't do anything after I installed my skunk2 5/8 spacer. How is this done?

 

search for "idle air learn" and it should give you the procedure. I think it's on motordyne's website.

it should be done whenever you change that.

 

Download the installation manual off our website. It has all the details.
http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...pID=9&CDpath=0

Note: You dont need to reset the throttlebody unless you find a problem with its calibration.

 

also, my throttle body was so nasty due to my catch can sucking so i cleaned that and just for save measure i installed my backup TB and my car starts and idles great now. On occasion when i press the clutch in it will dip into the 800's then rise back to my 1050 idle. Not bad. It doesn't stall anymore though.

i also put a haltech in and had Hal tune it. We came to the conclusion that my stock ecu is probably a lemon since it was doing really weird things with timing that he's never seen before.

 

can someone sum this thread up lol..

my car is idling rough as well and bogs at high rpms... im thinking it has an air leak as well, any specifics as to why this is occuring?

thanks

 

If you have a bog at high RPM, its not because of a air leak.

Air leaks would have to be really, REALLY big to affect high RPM, but if that was the case, your car wouldn't idle at all.

I suspect your throttle body calibration may be related to it. It can certainly cause the symptoms you describe. If its not throttle body calibration, its probably something else completely unrelated.. And that can be any number of things. It would require a trouble shooting process to identify what it is.

Tony

 

i had oil in my 6th spark plug valve, so i had my valve cover replaced.. do you know if a bad coil can cause this? b/c i only replaced the gasket and valve cover, not the coil itself (it had oil on it but i cleaned it all up) ...

car drive perfect sometimes, and then it decides to bog pretty much throughout the entire rpm band.. and causes a knocking idle (doesnt turn off, just becomes rough) and fixes itself for 20 min and does it again

thanks for your quick reply!

 

Yes, that can certainly be it. Intermittent operation is how coil packs can fail.
And oil contamination is one of the know ways they can be affected.

 

Hey vo, I know this was 3 years ago but I seem to have the same problem as you did when I installed the 5/16 plenum spacer, rough idle and when it gets to operating temperature and I turn off the car and restart it the rpms drop too low and the car turns off, I did everything correctly according to the instructions, everything is torqued down correctly and in specific order so idk what it could be, do you suggest driving it around for a while so it goes away like yours did?

 

I just installed mine and have some hesitation at high rpm's in 2nd. I'll drive it more and see if it goes away. Definitely spacer only cause as car was fine before it was put in. Throttle body wasnt touched as two of us did it and just tilted the front of the cover up and slid it in. I didnt feel the hesitation last time I revved it so I hope it is gone when I go for a drive later. Idle is completely fine though.

 

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I went through this same thing after a spacer install where I cleaned the TB. It was giving a P0507 code. I had to do the reteach about 10 times before it finally came down to spec but it did so if you're in this situation, just be patient and keep doing the reteach.

1.) Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
2.) Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
3.) Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
4.) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
5.) Fully release the accelerator pedal.
6.) Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON. ( you should here the TB clicking )
7.) Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
8.) Start engine and let it idle.
9.) Wait 20 seconds.
10.) Repeat as many times as necessary.... took me over 10 times.

 

You also must make sure that the car has been running for like 10 minutes to meet the coolant temperature specs for the learning to take place.

People that dont read the FSM often wonder why they cant make it work.

 

Bumping this up as I'm having issues with the 1-6 bolts loosening constantly. I've applied blue loctite and followed the instructions religiously. After taking it out for a drive then letting it cool over night when I check the 1-6 bolts they aren't at 80 inch pounds. Any idea what could be causing them to loosen? Also, when I shut the car off I hear a hissing sound similar to a balloon letting air out with the end pinched??? The bolts loosening on their own is really frustrating.

 

for everybody that have problems with the idle and stuff, after disconnecting the battery and installing everything do this:

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

There is the whole process, the 1st covers the ecu reset without removing the battery, but i do it anyways since it doesnt hurt. Good luck!!

 

It's been so long since I wrote this thread I forgot the details. You could try a stronger loctite. That may solve your loosening issue. Mine is still holding up fine after all these years...

 

Only tighten them with loctite once. They are not loosening. The spacer internal supports are made of Nylon. You can tighten them down and they will seal under compression. When the engine goes through a thermal cycle the nylon supports relax the tension and seal even better.

They are still supporting the plenum and they keep it sealed but the tension on the bolt is relaxed, so you dont need to tighten it again.

Just one and done.