View Poll Results: Which intake would you get?
Injen



22
47.83%
Nismo



14
30.43%
other (please specify) wish I can put gruppem here but $$$



10
21.74%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll
which intake should I get?
Originally posted by roark
I finished the installation of the Nismo CAI yesterday. The whole thing took about an hour, including adjustments and ECU reset. Every piece of the kit was well made and fitment was excellent.
First, the numbers. According to my G-Force Pro Competition, I've gained 6.2 WHP and .1 seconds 0-60. This is the average of 4 runs made in two directions.
I've not done a 1/4 mile run yet, but will at the next SCCA event in two weeks. I'll verify my times with their VBOX.
The filter is already a K&N venturi, perfectly sized for the cavity behind the bumper cover, and the intake tubing of the kit.
The air bypass was the reason I forked out the extra pesos over an Injen or AEM, since this is my daily driver and we get quite a bit of rain where I live.
Roark
I finished the installation of the Nismo CAI yesterday. The whole thing took about an hour, including adjustments and ECU reset. Every piece of the kit was well made and fitment was excellent.
First, the numbers. According to my G-Force Pro Competition, I've gained 6.2 WHP and .1 seconds 0-60. This is the average of 4 runs made in two directions.
I've not done a 1/4 mile run yet, but will at the next SCCA event in two weeks. I'll verify my times with their VBOX.
The filter is already a K&N venturi, perfectly sized for the cavity behind the bumper cover, and the intake tubing of the kit.
The air bypass was the reason I forked out the extra pesos over an Injen or AEM, since this is my daily driver and we get quite a bit of rain where I live.
Roark
roark, what's an ECU reset? I'm interested in getting the Nismo CAI too.
Well, i don't consider any of them intakes. The intake is the BIG METAL THING in top of the motor. That is the intake TUBE that you are talking about. I would personally go with the CRAWFORD intake. 9 PEAK hp and 20 at redline....NICE!!!
Originally posted by bz8
roark, what's an ECU reset? I'm interested in getting the Nismo CAI too.
roark, what's an ECU reset? I'm interested in getting the Nismo CAI too.
You can see this matchbox sized sensor when you install your new CAI. It is housed in a short section of intake piping between the airbox and the throttle body.
Since you will be sending more air into the system, the engine has to relearn from the MAF exactly how much air it's getting, and by resetting the ECU you tell it to make sure to relearn as soon as possible.
I say as soon as possible because the MAF works by heating a thin metal film and attempts to maintain that film at a fixed temperature. As more air blows past the film, cooling it, more electrical current is required to keep the film warm. This change in electrical current is what the ECU uses to calculate the amount of air in the intake piping.
You can achieve the same effect by letting the car idol for about 20 minutes after installing the kit before taking it out for a spin, but who wants to wait 1 minute to try out a new bolt-on go fast goody?
Here are the steps to an ECU reset as told by the shop manual.
1) Turn ignition on, wait 3 seconds
2) Push fully and release the gas pedal 5 times within 5 seconds
3) Wait 7 secs, fully push gas pedal and hold for 10 seconds until the CES light starts to blink
4) Release gas pedal (you are in diagnostic test mode 2)
5) Press and hold gas pedal for more than 10 seconds. Release pedal.
This procedure may also work for clearing the CES light after simple goof-ups like a loose fuel filler cap.
Roark
I just ordered a injen CAI for my Touring model...I had an option for Blue so I ordered that...hope it is to better match my daytona blue z and blue grounding wire kit
Guys (or gals) what should I do next to increase performance? Funds are a little limited at this time.
Thanks
FRIT-Z
Guys (or gals) what should I do next to increase performance? Funds are a little limited at this time.
Thanks
FRIT-Z
Originally posted by FRIT-Z
...
Guys (or gals) what should I do next to increase performance? Funds are a little limited at this time.
Thanks
FRIT-Z
...
Guys (or gals) what should I do next to increase performance? Funds are a little limited at this time.
Thanks
FRIT-Z
Seriously, about the next least expensive bold-on you could consider is an underdrive pully. This is just a smaller crankshaft pully so it underdrives the accessories like the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. You recoop lost horsepower and with most kits, reduce rotational mass a bit as well.
It's also a fairly simple install. The only special tools required are a harmonic balancer puller, which you can rent if you don't have/want to buy one, and a large socket for the pully nut.
Roark
Last edited by roark; Aug 13, 2003 at 11:21 AM.
Originally posted by roark
Here are the steps to an ECU reset as told by the shop manual.
1) Turn ignition on, wait 3 seconds
2) Push fully and release the gas pedal 5 times within 5 seconds
3) Wait 7 secs, fully push gas pedal and hold for 10 seconds until the CES light starts to blink
4) Release gas pedal (you are in diagnostic test mode 2)
5) Press and hold gas pedal for more than 10 seconds. Release pedal.
This procedure may also work for clearing the CES light after simple goof-ups like a loose fuel filler cap.
Roark
Here are the steps to an ECU reset as told by the shop manual.
1) Turn ignition on, wait 3 seconds
2) Push fully and release the gas pedal 5 times within 5 seconds
3) Wait 7 secs, fully push gas pedal and hold for 10 seconds until the CES light starts to blink
4) Release gas pedal (you are in diagnostic test mode 2)
5) Press and hold gas pedal for more than 10 seconds. Release pedal.
This procedure may also work for clearing the CES light after simple goof-ups like a loose fuel filler cap.
Roark
Wouldn't just removing the wire from the negative battery terminal reset the ECU a lot easier?? This is the procedure that I normally hear people say to do.
-Chrismcagle
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