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That's actually a good suggestion, I appreciate that. It is something I'm considering if I can't make up the gap at the flange. I'm trying to avoid removing that section unless I have to. I have the wideband sensor and the harness to deal with if I take it out.
What I am considering if I need a "dent" was to use an scrap section of rollcage tubing I have laying around and a mallet to put a radius-impression right where the rub mark is. You're right, it's not ideal. The rub mark isn't ideal either, so it won't hurt much more lol.
Originally Posted by nizmo_0385
Could get a hammer and dent it. Surely not ideal but maybe only option
I just laughed out loud at your comment. haha, I actually did double check the orientation of the sections after you mentioned, just incase I overlooked a small detail! lol I do remember reviewing it very carefully to confirm I had it correct. There isn't any other way you can really put it together.
It would be nice if that's all it was...
Originally Posted by dboyzalter
Strait pipe that. Thats really messed up. I was thinking I was correct all day and thought you were going to write back and say in a genius... Guess im still of only average to questionable intelligence.
I hear you man. On my old ap2 s2000 some of the js racing exhaust didnt clear the exhaust tunnel. Either dent the exhaust or the tunnel i opted to dent the titanium exhaust not ideal but it worked and it was symmetrical and looked like it belonged but ir was difficult to do. I used a socket and hammer to get perfect circle
Megan racing Y-Pipe (HR type)
The Megan racing Y-Pipe is advertised as T-304 stainless steel but, according to my scan with an x-ray fluorescence analyzer it doesn’t quite make the cut. While it still seems to be a low grade of stainless steel, it is surely not the 304 they advertise. The scan was taken at multiple points over the entire surface area of the y-pipe, yielding identical results. I considered, I could have scanned a chrome/coating but, they don’t advertise chrome/coatings being present. It is open for discussion and interpretation but, my results are here. It appears to be a low grade of a various stainless steel but, it is NOT 304.
Actual_________Nominal 304______Differential
Not present____C 0.08 MAX.______Absent element
Cr 14.52_______Cr 18-20_________In tolerance
Fe 72.88______Fe 66.345-74______In tolerance
Mn 9.70_______Mn 2.0% MAX.____ +7.7%
Ni 1.27________NI 8-10.5%_______-6.73%
Not present____P 0.045% MAX.____Absent element
Not present____S 0.03% MAX._____Absent element
Not present____Si 1.0% MAX.______Absent element
Cu 1.50 _______ Not specified_______Contaminant/filler
V 0.13_________ Not specified________Contaminant/filler
ISIS Single GT exhaust
While this exhaust isn’t advertised with a specified material, I took it upon myself to scan this one as well. The chart also compares the actual scan to the Nominal 304ss properties. The results show it to be a random recipe of elements.
Actual _________Nominal 304________Differential
Not present_______C 0.08 MAX._______Absent element
Cr 13.50 _________Cr 18-20__________-4.5%
Fe 73.61 ________ Fe 66.345-74______In tolerance
Mn 10.40 ________ Mn 2.0% MAX. ___ +8.40%
Ni 1.47 ___________NI 8-10.5%_______-6.53%
Not present________P 0.045% MAX.____Absent element
Not present________S 0.03% MAX._____Absent element
Not present________Si 1.0% MAX._____Absent element
Cu 0.89 __________Not specified_______Contaminant/filler
V 0.12 __________ Not specified_______Contaminant/filler
Damn i have the same Y pipe. That sucks but i wouldnt expect any less from the cheap ebay companies. They bet 99 percent wont test the product so they can say whatever they want
LOL, yeah. I didn't have high expectations before the scan, so it was not much of a let down. I scanned these more so for the comical relief to compensate for the horrific welds.
Poor quality welds, poor material grades, poor fitment and all the negative aspects aside the megan/ISIS combo does the job. The sound in normal driving is kind of on the loud/droning side for me. I have noticed a very small "off-throttle" gurgle in the lower range of the rpm, below 3k. In fact, most of the sounds below 3k are not pleasant from the cab. 3k to redline is decent with a somewhat supercar sound. 5k and up has a noticable gain while the rest of the rpm range has minimal noticable increase. Although, thats for the dyno to decide.
I have some significant intake mods I have to install and tune after I dyno the car in its current status. I want a "baseline" prior to the reworked intake manifold going on.
Originally Posted by nizmo_0385
Damn i have the same Y pipe. That sucks but i wouldnt expect any less from the cheap ebay companies. They bet 99 percent wont test the product so they can say whatever they want
Thank for you taking the time for the reviews. I actually had a megan Y-pipe for about 3 weeks when I needed a quick solution on my last Z. It broke within that time... the welds snapped and I have a pretty significant leak. All was well since my XYZ pipe came in the next day.
As for the exhaust the fitment is way off compared to OP's. Where's the quality control .
That's not surprising. The megan racing y-pipe uses the bare minimum for what can be considered Stainless Steel, as well as the bare minimum for weld filler. I didn't include it in any of my posts but, the weld filler they use is "201 exact". 201 is generally used in low heat, low stress environments. For example, 201 filler would be used on such applications of washer-machines, refrigerators and other house hold appliances. Weld filler 308 should be used as a minimum for the exhaust tubing.
Poor material grades lead to shitty outcomes.
As for the welds, I'm not a Pro but I do know some stuff. Upon close inspection of (megan specifically) the welded joints, I see red flags all over. Starting from the inside of the tubing where the penetration is present, the first signs of problems are seen.
Oxidation is formed on an inconsistent weld.
-The oxidation is a sign that the tubes were not "back-purged" like tube welding requires. That means the inside of the weld bead is poorly formed in a contaminated enviornment. In other words, that side of the weld is weaker and prone to cracking.
-"Inconsistencies", the weld is not one continuous bead. It has stopped and started several times with poor control of the "heat". This is can lead to hard spots in the weld, as well as "cool" poor penetrated weld (that pretty much means the weld is stuck to the surface of the metal).
As for the outside where the weld is applied... sigh
You'll have to look close for this one. The actual welds that are initially applied have been ground down and smoothed away. They were attempting to blend them for what ever reason, I can only guess. Regardless, that is never a proper way to do things. There is another weld preformed over top of that weld to "dress" the joint and make it look like it was fully TIG welded. Thats like putting a bandaid on a bullet-hole.
The "dressing" weld isn't even properly applied. The purple, brown and green colors aren't something you want to see right on the bead but, more so in the "heat affected zone" just outside of the weld. The "toe-line" of each weld bead are also entirely too far apart. The edge of the bead should look more like a straight line if you follow the outer edges of the bead. The megan y-pipe welds look more like a rough ocean wave, rising and falling. Those gaps also make the welds less structurally sound and prone to cracks.
If anything was done 100% correct on these parts, I haven't found it yet. I generally buy the top dollar stuff or literally make my own parts. I wouldn't say I have ultra high standards but, I expect things to done correct at the least.
Originally Posted by Pengu
Thank for you taking the time for the reviews. I actually had a megan Y-pipe for about 3 weeks when I needed a quick solution on my last Z. It broke within that time... the welds snapped and I have a pretty significant leak. All was well since my XYZ pipe came in the next day.
As for the exhaust the fitment is way off compared to OP's. Where's the quality control .
Last edited by 90nissanS13; Jul 31, 2015 at 12:40 PM.
That's not surprising. The megan racing y-pipe uses the bare minimum for what can be considered Stainless Steel, as well as the bare minimum for weld filler. I didn't include it in any of my posts but, the weld filler they use is "201 exact". 201 is generally used in low heat, low stress environments. For example, 201 filler would be used on such applications of washer-machines, refrigerators and other house hold appliances. Weld filler 308 should be used as a minimum for the exhaust tubing.
Poor material grades lead to shitty outcomes.
As for the welds, I'm not a Pro but I do know some stuff. Upon close inspection of (megan specifically) the welded joints, I see red flags all over. Starting from the inside of the tubing where the penetration is present, the first signs of problems are seen.
Oxidation is formed on an inconsistent weld.
-The oxidation is a sign that the tubes were not "back-purged" like tube welding requires. That means the inside of the weld bead is poorly formed in a contaminated enviornment. In other words, that side of the weld is weaker and prone to cracking.
-"Inconsistencies", the weld is not one continuous bead. It has stopped and started several times with poor control of the "heat". This is can lead to hard spots in the weld, as well as "cool" poor penetrated weld (that pretty much means the weld is stuck to the surface of the metal).
As for the outside where the weld is applied... sigh
You'll have to look close for this one. The actual welds that are initially applied have been ground down and smoothed away. They were attempting to blend them for what ever reason, I can only guess. Regardless, that is never a proper way to do things. There is another weld preformed over top of that weld to "dress" the joint and make it look like it was fully TIG welded. Thats like putting a bandaid on a bullet-hole.
The "dressing" weld isn't even properly applied. The purple, brown and green colors aren't something you want to see right on the bead but, more so in the "heat affected zone" just outside of the weld. The "toe-line" of each weld bead are also entirely too far apart. The edge of the bead should look more like a straight line if you follow the outer edges of the bead. The megan y-pipe welds look more like a rough ocean wave, rising and falling. Those gaps also make the welds less structurally sound and prone to cracks.
If anything was done 100% correct on these parts, I haven't found it yet. I generally buy the top dollar stuff or literally make my own parts. I wouldn't say I have ultra high standards but, I expect things to done correct at the least.
Yeah, I also tend to buy higher quality stuff but I was in a time crunch and picked up a used one for like $40 on CraigsList. It was junk but did the job for the time being. Plans for my new Z are MotorDyne ART + XYZ + Agency Power.
Have you called the company at all? Dont think lots of people are going to buy this if they need to modify it to keep it away from the precious super sensitive and highly expensive driveshaft.
I'd like to make a decent driving video so, I'm kinda waiting for a good friend to come back in town who owns a Go-Pro camera. He's nice enough to leave his 40th aniv. 370z with me for over a year, I'm sure he would loan the camera for a bit!
Originally Posted by nizmo_0385
Looking good brother. Get some sound clips once things are sorted
The discussion on page 1 showed good results with the exhaust. My results obviously varied. I have not called the company.
This is a low quality, cheap product made over seas (you can guess the country), I think it can be expected for the quality of this product to vary drastically.
The choices I've made to modify the exhaust is that, my choice. Good result have been seen, as well as my result.
When a manufacture makes one quality issue and it affects the use of the product, ill make a call and trace the root of the problem. When they choose to use cheap materials, weld with the cheapest filler, improperly perform the welding, and allow for the process to create an unconforming physical structure, I am not going to waste my time trying to get a "better" one. I would rather fix it myself, to my standards and know it works how it should.
This is not an argument and im not trying to make it one. You asked a great question! I'm simply sharing my results.
Originally Posted by dboyzalter
Have you called the company at all? Dont think lots of people are going to buy this if they need to modify it to keep it away from the precious super sensitive and highly expensive driveshaft.
I decided to go without the paint for the second try. I wasn't interested in spending days for paint and curing before installing again. I did end up fabricating a meter plate to attain a bit of back pressure in hopes to dull the sound down. Then I realized the oem gasket is literally the same size as the meter plate I fabricated so I just sandwiched an oem small gasket on the low pressure side of the last flange towards the exit. Surprisingly, this was fairly effective in reducing much of the harsh sound of the >3k rpm range. Although, it is still pretty loud.
Annoying exhaust... "Ain't nobody got time for that."
Yeah. I'd rather spend that $910 on something else but, I couldn't stand this ISIS. It's too much for me to bare. I'm sure others will enjoy it.
The Invidia Gemini has been my favorite dual exhuast since I have been a Z driver. I was making an attempt to cut weight with the ISIS single GT. It's not worth the headache.
@Conway_160: 3 buisness days to be exact. lol. Nick at ConceptZperformance is the man.
I did want to make a video for those who are interested before I remove it. I won't have the GoPro by this weekend so, if anything, it won't be the best video.
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