This time around for Project ActiveTuning we install the K&N Typhoon short ram air intake. Check out the surprising results, full step-by-step with picture install guide, and dyno charts:

http://www.activetuning.com/pat/4/4



For older issues, check them out here:

http://www.activetuning.com/pat/4

 

Nice, a coule comments:

1. You call the JWT a warm air intake, and although it is in the engine bay, it is also right next to the hole in the grill that the stock intake uses. With the hood closed the intake will be getting most of its air through the hole and will be just as CAI as the K&N.

2. I've seen some people attribute those jagged spots ont the dyno to the knock sensor pulling timing. Perhaps the warmer weather caused the car to knock a bit in the upper RPM ranges which lowered the power a tad.

3. Were there any fans blowing towards the intake scoop? When driving you'll have some wind blowing into the scoop giving the Ram Air effect, so maybe your dyno wasn't simulating that as much while the K&N dyno was.

Anyhow, just some thoughts. Nice job!

-D'oh!

 

Gotta heatwrap that box man

 

What is the inside diameter of the polished pipe where the MAF sensor is placed.
The stock plastic one is 75mm. If it is much bigger it will be measuring a slower air speed for the same CFM & sending a different voltage to the ECU.
While I doubt this is causing the spiking it may change the AF ratio

The new Nismo S1 package is using a simmiler set up where the new 80mm+ air pipe has the MAF installed like Your K&N unit but it has other mods as well & the ECU is reflashed

 

Its gotta make you wonder what is the point of these Cold Air Intakes are if a company like K & N reccomends to redyno at a lower temp??? I mean am i missing the point here or something?

I mean i understand the first dyno was at 73 degrees and the K and N dyno was at 83 degrees but does 10 degrees mean 8 hp loss with a COLD air intake installed??

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. A couple people mentioned the fact that the fans should blow right into the inlet tube. I can't remember where it was blowing though, so on the next dyno I'll definitely make sure that is the case. And yes, I know it's a bit BS'y that they say to re-dyno at a lower temp, but I'm going to go ahead and do that anyway. Unfortunately without me re-installing the stock exhaust, there will be no way to truly test out the power gains on the intake (the exhaust may show some ridiculous gains though), but I do believe that there are gains.

I'm not sure what the diameter of the pipe is...but that's not a bad idea. In fact, it is basicallly along the lines of eipTuning's thoughts....but as D'Oh stated, they thought it had more to do with the warmer weather.

 

Interesting results....dont listen to EIP they are worthless, how do they know its running rich if they dopnt have a wideband? Dave I gained 11whp from switching from my AEM to a Pop-charger cuz long-tube intakes dont work well with the plenum, we have both had interesting results from intakes. Good luck getting your car running better.

 

Alberto, they were just making a guess as to what caused those fluctuations...they weren't trying to give me a bonefied answer.

BTW, I'm in OC from Friday to Friday, will you be down there?

 

Unfortunately no, unless I get some friends together and we find a place. Ill probobly be down later in the summer. I hate EIP, what they say doesnt make sense. If your running rich, you would want your car to advance timing. If it was lean, then your ecu would pull back on your timing.

 

that is a great write up....great pics, instructions and data...hope all works out for yaz

 

Interesting dyno results. I used that same intake and radically modified it. About the only thing I used was the box, which I made into a truely sealed box ,fed from the side with 3" piping (G35's can't use the front feed). I used a different open top K&N filter and I created a adapter to mount the MAF housing to the box itself as I did not want to use the K&N metal upper tubing.

The oem MAF housing is 3" diameter as is the oem tube from their to the pleneum. The K&N upper tube to the pleneum is also 3" diameter. However, the tube from the Typhon scoup to the air box is 2.5" and the outlet from the scoup is 2", which I also modified to 3"


Theirs not enough space around the metal box to insulate it and it's shape is to complex to copy and fab in plastic.