Pinging
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Pinging
On very hot runs at mid day (75F +) does your Z have pinging problems when you go WOT? I know my Z doesn't ping on colder days at night due to the cooler temps.
I was recommended to take it back to the dealer to have the fuel trim levels adjusted. My questions is, will dealers actually adjust fuel trim levels to solve pinging problems? (I already tried different brands of gas and even tried mixing racing gas to up the octane to 93).
Another advice I was given was to change out to colder spark plugs and widen the gap slightly. Has anyone tried this before???
I was recommended to take it back to the dealer to have the fuel trim levels adjusted. My questions is, will dealers actually adjust fuel trim levels to solve pinging problems? (I already tried different brands of gas and even tried mixing racing gas to up the octane to 93).
Another advice I was given was to change out to colder spark plugs and widen the gap slightly. Has anyone tried this before???
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You can try water wetter, a colder spark plug, a lower temp thermostat, bigger radiator or just let the dealer tune it. Heat contributes to knocking and pinging. Even a small amount can hurt your pistons. So with better gas you don't get pinging?
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Having the dealer tune my car is most likely going to nerfed car, I have a bad feeling for them touching anything related to the ECU.
I just might go through the route of big radiator, Nismo thermostat, colder plugs. Then again, I won't be stock. Yes, I have a love affair of being stock.
I guess I'll I have to face the dealership.
I tried running with ~ 93 octane when my car was running hot, but still was pinging. It didn't ping as bad as the runs with 91, but the pinging is still noticeable.
I just might go through the route of big radiator, Nismo thermostat, colder plugs. Then again, I won't be stock. Yes, I have a love affair of being stock.
I guess I'll I have to face the dealership.
I tried running with ~ 93 octane when my car was running hot, but still was pinging. It didn't ping as bad as the runs with 91, but the pinging is still noticeable.
#4
Time for road trip!
You do realize that at WOT the ECU is mostly max out on adjustments it can do. I get better track times if I stay away from WOT. I got OBD code for too high voltage from throttle position sensor...ECU went into "safe mode". Ouch! 19 sec quarter.
Our 350Z dislike the ole "pedal to the medal" style of driving. More of come closer but don't touch style. ECU adjustments / control is between IDLE position and WOT position sensors.
To retraining ECU, well take the road trip. It's more fun than sitting at dealership.
Suggest sticking with 93 octane for three or more tank fulls or ~50 gals. Take car on road trip of long duration where you can stay at freeway speeds for an hour or more without slowing down. One tank out, ~15 gals. Read and clear and OBDII codes before starting out.
For my '03 this seems to clear out "build-ups" from daily stop and go (commute is ~5 miles). My overall mileage goes up and car seems to idle better. I have relatives 250 miles away. Use 3/4 tank on way out; dropped by quarter tank on way back. Same scretch of I 35.
This is seat-of-pants engineering.....ESM states it takes "five trips" to clear a OBDII code, turn-off check engine light if no other code is triggered. A "trip" is sort-of defined as one cycle of turning engine on then off. Takes 'bout a tank or two to train ECU to better fuel (higher octane).
Or you can take to dealer.
You do realize that at WOT the ECU is mostly max out on adjustments it can do. I get better track times if I stay away from WOT. I got OBD code for too high voltage from throttle position sensor...ECU went into "safe mode". Ouch! 19 sec quarter.
Our 350Z dislike the ole "pedal to the medal" style of driving. More of come closer but don't touch style. ECU adjustments / control is between IDLE position and WOT position sensors.
To retraining ECU, well take the road trip. It's more fun than sitting at dealership.
Suggest sticking with 93 octane for three or more tank fulls or ~50 gals. Take car on road trip of long duration where you can stay at freeway speeds for an hour or more without slowing down. One tank out, ~15 gals. Read and clear and OBDII codes before starting out.
For my '03 this seems to clear out "build-ups" from daily stop and go (commute is ~5 miles). My overall mileage goes up and car seems to idle better. I have relatives 250 miles away. Use 3/4 tank on way out; dropped by quarter tank on way back. Same scretch of I 35.
This is seat-of-pants engineering.....ESM states it takes "five trips" to clear a OBDII code, turn-off check engine light if no other code is triggered. A "trip" is sort-of defined as one cycle of turning engine on then off. Takes 'bout a tank or two to train ECU to better fuel (higher octane).
Or you can take to dealer.
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California only gets 1 type of gas .............. 91 *cough* I mixed in racing gas to get ~ 93 octane. I don't have the luxury to keep mixing gas all the time.
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If you don't run Red Line "water wetter" that is a must from the start (cheap, easy and effective). It will take 25-40 degrees off the internal head temp and the radiator works much more effectively.
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Regularily occurring spark knock(pinging) on 06
I've got an '06 Enthusiast M/T. It's been warmer up here in Washington state recently (80's and 90's). My friggin car is pinging quite regularily. I'm using the word pinging because when I brought it into the dealership, that is what the Tech said who drove my car. He said he could retard the timing to see if that would take care of it but dammit this is a new car (only 4000 miles). Why the heck is it pinging? I only use Chevron Supreme(91 octane) and vary my driving speeds and RPMS. It's embarassing to honest...cruising around with this "rattling" sound every time I accelerate. The owners manual says that occasionally the car will exhibit "Spark knock" and that it's normal(even goes as far as saying that's a sign the car is working efficiently when you hear that). WTF! With such a new car, what components or systems should I check or have checked out? Will resetting the ECU help at all?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Terry
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Terry
#9
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Originally Posted by 2005ssm
I've got an '06 Enthusiast M/T. It's been warmer up here in Washington state recently (80's and 90's). My friggin car is pinging quite regularily. I'm using the word pinging because when I brought it into the dealership, that is what the Tech said who drove my car. He said he could retard the timing to see if that would take care of it but dammit this is a new car (only 4000 miles). Why the heck is it pinging? I only use Chevron Supreme(91 octane) and vary my driving speeds and RPMS. It's embarassing to honest...cruising around with this "rattling" sound every time I accelerate. The owners manual says that occasionally the car will exhibit "Spark knock" and that it's normal(even goes as far as saying that's a sign the car is working efficiently when you hear that). WTF! With such a new car, what components or systems should I check or have checked out? Will resetting the ECU help at all?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Terry
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Terry
Maybe you got a bad tank of gas? It does happen.
The ECU ***should*** pull timing to prevent pinging. Usually it does this almost instantly, before most humans could detect knock. Don't reset the ECU, but *do* drive it gently until your current tank of gas is gone. If you can, put some 100 octane in there and see if the problem continues.
That said, make sure the problem actually is pinging.
Since pinging should never be an issue with a stock ECU, try getting a second opinion from another mechanic.
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This noise is not new though. It's happened with every tank of gas. I've only used Premium since I purchased the car and have bought gas at different stations. It seems like if it is in fact pinging there must be something that is not working correctly with the vehicle's sensors or ECU. Is there any way for a tech to diagnose that if there's no CEL?
Thank you.
Thank you.
#11
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There have been posts about people having noises coming from their plenum.
They have described it as a rattling sound.
I don't remember what the solution was, possibly tightening down some bolts.
Worth a try though.
I would also try the 100 octane. It is available from a few select 76 stations, and costs like $5.50/gal.
If you fill up with 100 octane there's almost no way you could be knocking. If the sound doesn't go away with 100 octane I would assume you are hearing some sound that is nothing to do with knocking.
They have described it as a rattling sound.
I don't remember what the solution was, possibly tightening down some bolts.
Worth a try though.
I would also try the 100 octane. It is available from a few select 76 stations, and costs like $5.50/gal.
If you fill up with 100 octane there's almost no way you could be knocking. If the sound doesn't go away with 100 octane I would assume you are hearing some sound that is nothing to do with knocking.
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Are you in the Puget Sound area? I'm in Bellingham. I have more experience and I am a better trouble shooter than the dealer, guaranteed! Cars are a hobby/Passion, I work 4 days on and 4 off so I have a lot of free time.
PM me I'll give you my 2 cents worth in person.
PM me I'll give you my 2 cents worth in person.
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additional factors for consideration...
oh, and another thing... I noticed that with only 4000 miles on my car, I'm going through oil seemingly more quickly than I should. It's down by 1/8 to 1/4 inch on the dipstick by the end of every 1-2 weeks. I'm also noticing that the inner edge/surface of the exhaust tips has become rather black(sooty). Does this help in any way with the prognosis?
Terry
Terry
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Ours ping too...
Wife and I each have 2006 Z's. They both ping at lower RPMs under acceleration. Once they reach 3000-3500rpm, they stop pinging. it is kind of irritating, but not bad enough that I'd take it to the dealer. outside temp does not matter. We always run either chevron or shell 91 octane.
Last edited by hiz-n-herz; 07-14-2006 at 09:02 AM.
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Anyone try letting it idle untouched for 10-15 mins? The ECU will do a little fuel trim recalibration itself. I know it can make a really big diff in the fuel trim because I replaced the injection spider in my Tahoe with a poppet valve design and it ran like sh** when I started it... let it idle... smooth. It further worked out a minor hesitation around 2k rpm in a few days of driving.
I commute 120 miles a day in my Z, same fuel, same open roads, etc, and I can feel a slight diff after I give it the idle time after a major weather change, etc. The fuel trim can only adjust so much when you are driving, because it doesn't have a stable reference point/rpm.
I run fresh Sunoco 94 all the time and still get a little ping every once in a while.
I think the definition of "light pinging" in the manual is the question. I do know, though, that you will hear a lot more audible pinging from an aluminum block w/ high compression than an iron block. Still a pain in the ****.
I commute 120 miles a day in my Z, same fuel, same open roads, etc, and I can feel a slight diff after I give it the idle time after a major weather change, etc. The fuel trim can only adjust so much when you are driving, because it doesn't have a stable reference point/rpm.
I run fresh Sunoco 94 all the time and still get a little ping every once in a while.
I think the definition of "light pinging" in the manual is the question. I do know, though, that you will hear a lot more audible pinging from an aluminum block w/ high compression than an iron block. Still a pain in the ****.
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