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Car won't start.

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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 11:10 AM
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Default Car won't start.

Tried turning on my car this morning and it wouldn't start. I've already tested the battery, and also tried jumping the car. The car tries to turn over but it never actually catches(can hold it in that position for long periods of time and it will never actually catch). Anyone have any other methods of rulling possible things out???
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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Ohhh, by the way. I've been told it could be starter, inline fuse or some relay. And this did happen a week after I bought new light weight battery. So i'm thinking it might be a fuse or something. How can I test out/check these possibilities.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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back to basics, check the voltage of the battery. Then when you installed the new battery you didnt cross the positive and negative cable? ok good. Now It tries to crank but it wont catch becasue either the crankposition sensor wont tell where number 1 piston is, your not getting any spark, your not getting any fuel. Check fuses by removing it and make sure there a solid connection in it. Also depending on milega your alternator could be bad.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:04 PM
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Okay, well I took it to the dearlership. They are telling me the battery fried the ECU somehow ::shrug:: Anyways, they are charging me 1,200 for a new ECU and programing. Now before I go buy a new OEM ECU, I was wondering if there are any other options for someone in my position. Buy a reflashed ECU etc? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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your computer is fried i beleive a reflashed ecu still needs the stock ecu, but you destroyrd the hardware of the ecu so it wont matter. Did you cross the positve to the negatiave battery? ha how could this happend
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:14 PM
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They could be lying to you. Took mine to a dealership for the same problem. First they claimed it was the clutch n tried charging me $1k to repair the problem. After a month of arguing they fixed it under warranty. Still a starter problem like yours, took it in and after 2 more weeks it turned out to be the car having a shorting problem. Dont talk to anyone but the general manager and hopefully they're nice enough to help you. Mine had a very long start and my SLIP, TCS OFF, SES lights were on as a symptom. Hope that helps, I dunno how the problem started too.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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wait!
before you let them tell ya that do some more thinking about it.........
-compare the battery specs, could it do something like that
-theres a fuse for a reason, to protect the electronics from too much CURRENT
-dont believe the stealership
-whered you get the battery
-who installed the battery


I highly doubt your battery fried the ecu!!!!!!! the fust should limit that
and if the battery you bought did do it then contact the person who sold you the battery, it may be F'd up to begin with

dont throw your money away just yet..........
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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Well, I bought a small light weight battery. A Hawker battery, and they said that it got lose and short circuted the ECU. I talked to Tony at Performance Nissan, and i'm willing to spend an extra diagnostic fee and towing fee to get it over there to people i trust.

Anyways, if they find that it actually is the same problem. I found a place online that sells remanufactured ECU's for 399. Should I buy it and just reflash my ECU while my car is down. I know it won't help much if at all since my car is done, but I'd like to get it mapped for Intake, Header, Exhaust just so for future I know thats already taken care of. Good Idea or just get stock and go on with life??
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