1997 LT1 Firebird Formula.

Ok I have a problem, aside from the fact that I own one of these hunks of crap! (Its ok, I drive the Z. The 'Bird sits on the side of the house)

Alright, the car has been on the side of my house for about 8 months now. I just got the Transmission replaced and the body re-painted. Since I bought the car I've replaced almost every single part on the car. Now my problem is that when I shift it from Park (4 Speed AT) it immediately stalls and dies, no buffet at all. If I rev it up and shift it I can get it to move but then when I come to a stop it shakes and stalls again. Any good mechanics on here have any idea what the hell could be causing this?

If you need more information just ask and I'll answer. Thanks.

-UZ- (is trying to dump this stupid car)

 

If it's a Thunderbird, tap on the Idle Speed Motor, aka IAC. Sounding like it's stuck.

 

I had a Turdmobile (Taurus) and ran into a similar problem. It would start but not run. They replaced the IAC motor on it if I remember correctly.

 

Whoops my bad!! I forgot to put what car it was in the OP!! Sorry guys, its a '97 LT1 Firebird Formula!

-UZ- (is a dumb@$$)

 

Bump

 

Id also say IAC

 

IAC = the Idle Air Control motor right? How would I check that?

 

Before REPLACING the IAC, you should take it out and see if a good cleaning would help. If you're not familiar with it, it's a little servo motor that opens and closes depending on the amount of air needed at Idle. For example, in the middle of winter when the engine is ice cold, you start it up and the IAC will be wide open until the engine starts to warm.

Unhook the battery, unbolt your IAC from your throttle body. Take care opening it up (i recommend doing it somewhere very bright). Look for carbon deposits on the spindle (part that extends), and clean it with some electronic parts cleaner that you can get at any auto store. Clean all the pieces throughly and make SURE they are COMPLETELY DRY before reassembling. Pop it back in the car, hook up the battery and give it a little time to adjust.

The same problem happened on my Stealth and a good IAC cleaning fixed everything

Hope that helps

 

When you take out your IAC also, look online for wiring diagrams and resistance specs. Take a voltmeter and measure the resistance across the specified pins and see if it's within the acceptable ohm range. If not...that's when you NEED to replace it.

Oh and I'm not a mechanic. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

That makes sense to me, I will definitely take a look at that. If there was a problem with it would it flag the Check Engine Light to come on? Because it did. Also, when I got it painted is it possible that that could have gummed up the IAC maybe if some overspray got up into the wheel-well where the intake is?

 

Nice!

 

I doubt overspray would be the culprit. These servo motors just get carbon build up overtime and start sucking one day. I think the problem is age.

 

Lol, yeah she's not a young lady anymore...

Hey I just talked to the transmission guy that replaced the old tranny. He said that a "Lock-Up Sensor" went bad and that's what was causing it to stall as well as try to keep driving forward while it was idling and my foot was heavy on the brake (first time only, then it would just stall...) Does that sound like what the problem could be? The IAC sounds more likely to me but he said that sensor was fried...

 

Hmmm...don't know, but from the symptoms you describe, it seems to be a IAC that wont open. Try adjusting the idle a little higher and see if the car won't stall. If it doesn't check the IAC.

 

Will do. As soon as the tranny guy gets it all buttoned up again. Either way he replaced the Lock Up Sensor for free so that makes me happy.