Sputtering During Warm-up
you have sensor problems, not what we have.
Tac, to understand you right we need to try 5w30 motor oil?
Because i've already tried switching back and forth between motul(not sure which weight) and mobile 1 full synthetic and neither have made a difference. I'm due for an oil change soon so i'll try 5w30 if thats what you are saying.
Tac, to understand you right we need to try 5w30 motor oil?
Because i've already tried switching back and forth between motul(not sure which weight) and mobile 1 full synthetic and neither have made a difference. I'm due for an oil change soon so i'll try 5w30 if thats what you are saying.
you have sensor problems, not what we have.
Tac, to understand you right we need to try 5w30 motor oil?
Because i've already tried switching back and forth between motul(not sure which weight) and mobile 1 full synthetic and neither have made a difference. I'm due for an oil change soon so i'll try 5w30 if thats what you are saying.
Tac, to understand you right we need to try 5w30 motor oil?
Because i've already tried switching back and forth between motul(not sure which weight) and mobile 1 full synthetic and neither have made a difference. I'm due for an oil change soon so i'll try 5w30 if thats what you are saying.
yes. i don't know how to explain this, but if you can try mobil1 5w30 or motul 5w30 with OEM oil filter and let us know, that would be very cool. If I am right, within 2-3 runs to the grocery store, the problem will go away.
I believe it has to do with the valvetrain operation.
yes. i don't know how to explain this, but if you can try mobil1 5w30 or motul 5w30 with OEM oil filter and let us know, that would be very cool. If I am right, within 2-3 runs to the grocery store, the problem will go away.
I believe it has to do with the valvetrain operation.
I believe it has to do with the valvetrain operation.
Your problem sounds very similar to when i had o2 sensor issues when i installed HFC's.
I would have a check engine light due to one of my o2 sensors in my header( theory is that it was damaged by the impact wrench) and when i would accelerate to 2700 RPM, the car would stutter for a little bit, then keep accelerating as if everything is normal. Replaced the o2 sensor and completely fixed the issue.
I would take your car into a dealer and have then run the code on your CEL. If in fact it's an o2 sensor or any kind of sensor, replace it and i'd bet money it will fix your issue.
Honestly i didn't read your post too detailed but i'm almost positive what you are experiancing is not what the rest of us had.
Your problem sounds very similar to when i had o2 sensor issues when i installed HFC's.
I would have a check engine light due to one of my o2 sensors in my header( theory is that it was damaged by the impact wrench) and when i would accelerate to 2700 RPM, the car would stutter for a little bit, then keep accelerating as if everything is normal. Replaced the o2 sensor and completely fixed the issue.
I would take your car into a dealer and have then run the code on your CEL. If in fact it's an o2 sensor or any kind of sensor, replace it and i'd bet money it will fix your issue.
Your problem sounds very similar to when i had o2 sensor issues when i installed HFC's.
I would have a check engine light due to one of my o2 sensors in my header( theory is that it was damaged by the impact wrench) and when i would accelerate to 2700 RPM, the car would stutter for a little bit, then keep accelerating as if everything is normal. Replaced the o2 sensor and completely fixed the issue.
I would take your car into a dealer and have then run the code on your CEL. If in fact it's an o2 sensor or any kind of sensor, replace it and i'd bet money it will fix your issue.
thanks
been driving it for about a week now with no change. Also i didn't realize it, but the motul oil i've always been using was 5w30. Standard oil change for Z's at West Covina Nissan. :-(
Not sure if i want to fork out 600 bucks for a reflash.
Tac-M, you said you did your reflash with a hand held device that you get to keep? Is it possible for me to pay you to borrow yours to give it a try? or is it something that is permanently connected to your car?
Not sure if i want to fork out 600 bucks for a reflash.
Tac-M, you said you did your reflash with a hand held device that you get to keep? Is it possible for me to pay you to borrow yours to give it a try? or is it something that is permanently connected to your car?
been driving it for about a week now with no change. Also i didn't realize it, but the motul oil i've always been using was 5w30. Standard oil change for Z's at West Covina Nissan. :-(
Not sure if i want to fork out 600 bucks for a reflash.
Tac-M, you said you did your reflash with a hand held device that you get to keep? Is it possible for me to pay you to borrow yours to give it a try? or is it something that is permanently connected to your car?
Not sure if i want to fork out 600 bucks for a reflash.
Tac-M, you said you did your reflash with a hand held device that you get to keep? Is it possible for me to pay you to borrow yours to give it a try? or is it something that is permanently connected to your car?
was it 300v 5w30 ?
anyway, i have no idea anymore...... it is not the flash. and i don't think you should pay 600 to try it. and unfortunately cobb made it impossible to "share " the device. it locks on the the ecu.......
I use 5W30 "MOBIL 1/12,000-mile" synth' oil, but I change it every 6,000 to 7,500 miles, just to be on the safe side. So far, so good. It pours out amber-colored (cleaner than the old dino oil used to come out after just 3,000 miles!). NO PROBLEMO. At any rate, I don't think the sputtering has
anything to do with motor oil; it's pro'bly fuel injector(s), electrical or some other kinda problem.
anything to do with motor oil; it's pro'bly fuel injector(s), electrical or some other kinda problem.
Last edited by j.arnaldo; Jan 15, 2009 at 09:49 AM.
Do you still have the issue or is it still gone with your reflash?
Hey Larry that's really cool of you. I'll hold off for now but i'll keep it in mind. How hard is it to install and uninstall? Is it plug and play or did you have to splice wires?
It's like a mini OBD scanner that flashes your ECU. If you have the time; stop by it shouldn't take no longer than an hour.
no.
here are the 3 things that i have done.
1. cobb ap - Stage 2+
2. from 10w40 to 5w30 same 300v
3. oil catch can.
EDIT:
Some other stuff:
1. Bypassed throttle body heater loop
2. HFC and full Y-Pipe Catback
3. FAKE EVAP Canister - that was AMUSEing
4. Injen Intakes
5. 3 more ground points one fat one from the Negative and 2 to TBs
That's about it.


here are the 3 things that i have done.
1. cobb ap - Stage 2+
2. from 10w40 to 5w30 same 300v
3. oil catch can.
EDIT:
Some other stuff:
1. Bypassed throttle body heater loop
2. HFC and full Y-Pipe Catback
3. FAKE EVAP Canister - that was AMUSEing
4. Injen Intakes
5. 3 more ground points one fat one from the Negative and 2 to TBs
That's about it.


Last edited by Tac-M; Jan 20, 2009 at 05:26 PM.


