Notices
Maintenance & Repair 350Z up keep and diagnosing/fixing problems

Sputtering During Warm-up

Old 10-26-2014, 05:50 PM
  #761  
Emski
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 824
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

I am using Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and the problem went away. I used Mobil 1 0W40 before which has higher density at 15.6C.
It was suggested that lower density helps.
PP 5W30 has 0.84 vs Mobil 1 0W40 with 0.85.

http://translate.google.lu/translate..._20070408.html
Emski is offline  
Old 11-04-2014, 08:17 PM
  #762  
nizmo_0385
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lakewood Washington
Posts: 1,305
Received 117 Likes on 99 Posts
Default

My 07 nismo does this after cold start. 35k on the clock. Slight sputter exhaust note sounds different. No codes. Fresh oil chevron gas not sure what gives. Runs perfect strong and smooth after 4 or 5 mind of driving.
nizmo_0385 is offline  
Old 11-19-2014, 05:15 AM
  #763  
Euro_Z33
Registered User
 
Euro_Z33's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Switzerland ( Europe )
Posts: 18
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Have made the second oil change with Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 so far. Car runs absolutley fine, even on race track! I think that the VTC System on the VQ35 HR is very sensitive on the oil viscosity. Hope that helps guys.
Euro_Z33 is offline  
Old 11-14-2016, 06:47 PM
  #764  
colin.ssc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Perth
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi guys, sorry for resurrecting an old thread but just wondering how you guys are going with your HR and the cold start driving sputtering issue?
colin.ssc is offline  
Old 02-09-2017, 05:28 PM
  #765  
jonowijono
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi , got a similar issue with my 08 HR Auto. Previously had P0014 and P0024. Car would jerk at low rpm once the car is at peak temperature. (jerking only on soft acceleration/gas)

Replaced both the valve timing covers (not cheap ) and the codes disappeared. However now the car jerks more frequently. It would start jerking just after cold starts constantly at low rpm, or from a stop/start.

Driven the car for about 2500km/1 month now and the jerking has been constant. I did notice that when the valve timing covers we installed, they didn't do a valve timing re-learn. Could that be the issue?

Thankssss
jonowijono is offline  
Old 02-09-2017, 05:31 PM
  #766  
F2CMaDMaXX
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
F2CMaDMaXX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Oregon from England
Posts: 1,751
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

What is a "valve timing cover" ?
F2CMaDMaXX is offline  
Old 02-09-2017, 05:36 PM
  #767  
jonowijono
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

jonowijono is offline  
Old 05-15-2017, 05:42 AM
  #768  
lifekenophobic
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 176
Received 29 Likes on 18 Posts
Thumbs up Fixed!

First off, a BIG thanks to everyone who has contributed to the thread so far! I would have been totally lost on this issue without the information I read through in the previous 39 pages.

I'm happy to confirm 100% that changing the VTC covers has completely resolved this issue for me. Just to be clear, the issue is this:

-Cold start car.
-(I usually let my car warm up for 30 seconds - 2 minutes, depending on weather).
-Begin driving normally, light acceleration.
-Between the RPM range of about 1,700 - 2,200, very noticeable hesitation/stuttering/shudder. Issue not present when you accelerate harder. (I could usually stop the bucking by hammering the gas.)
-After about 5 minutes (or usually 2 stoplights in my case), issue is no longer present. *This part is important, because if the stutter/hesitation does not go away, you have a different issue. Most likely a vacuum leak or other fuel/air related problem.

If you have this issue, you'll know it to be very predictable. It will pretty much start and stop bucking in the same place every day, and it will drive you nuts. Once the car is fully warmed up (closed loop), the issue should no longer be present. This also only seems to be a VQ35HR issue, so you DE guys are most likely not affected (at least from what I've seen so far).

If this accurately describes your issue, congratulations! You're going to be spending $1,000 for new VTC covers. Below are some pictures and additional information on my experience:

First, this little bolt is going to make things more difficult for you. It is the #8 bolt on the passenger side VTC cover diagram in the FSM, and it is hidden behind the bracket that holds your auto-tensioner and idler pulley.




This is obviously after you remove your serpentine belt, auto-tensioner, and idler pulley. In order to remove that little bracket, you're going to have to loosen ANOTHER bracket that holds that in place. You can see how it is bolted to the back of this other bracket here:


Although not completely necessary, I would recommend removing the following items to make this job easier: upper radiator hose, radiator fans, and alternator.


Covers removed!






Old vs. new. Don't forget those gaskets! Oh, and the passenger side cover should have a revised version. Make sure you specify when ordering that you are getting the revised version which has a larger oil gallery.


Enjoy your shiny new VTC covers, and best of all no more hesitation! I waited about a week before making this post, just to make sure it wasn't a temporary thing. I'm happy to report that my car is now stutter free, and seems to run a lot more smoothly while in open loop (warming up). Hoping this helps anyone who may struggle with the same issue. Good luck!
lifekenophobic is offline  
The following 3 users liked this post by lifekenophobic:
@vq.bryce (08-08-2018), Euro_Z33 (08-28-2017), F2CMaDMaXX (05-16-2017)
Old 05-15-2017, 11:12 AM
  #769  
zakmartin
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,820
Received 503 Likes on 372 Posts
Default

I'm betting it's the same issue with the retarder that the Maxima has. I'd have gone with the new VTC covers as well. Playing around with paper shims and all the garbage that goes along with repairing the part seems to be a bit of a hassle.

Link to TSB: https://www.autocodes.com/uploads/nissan/NTB12-116.pdf
zakmartin is offline  
Old 05-16-2017, 07:21 PM
  #770  
jonowijono
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default still stuttering :(

nice write up @lifekenophobic.

Funnily enough my stuttering/buckling issue started AFTER i replaced BOTH my VTC covers :L.

Replaced the VTC covers due to P0014 and P0024 codes appearing, which has not came back (about 10,000km ago). Thank god haha

Similar to lifekenophobic, it would buckle at low rpm between 1500-2000 on soft acceleration, but can stop it by aggressively pressing on the gas. BUT this will occur after the engine is completely warmed up. At cold start the car will run perfectly for the first 2-5 minutes, then the buckling starts...

Also during the 'buckling' phase the engine will make a sort of metallic-ish sound, sounding like a diesel engine for that split second?

Even on neutral when u rev the engine, it would buckle/resist between 1500-2000RPM and make that funny 'sound'. Had my dad try to locate where the sound is coming from and is sound like it coming from the VTCs themselves...

BTW they are genuine nissan VTC covers.. Not sure where to go from here..

Any help will be much appreciated! Thanks!
jonowijono is offline  
Old 07-30-2017, 02:10 PM
  #771  
John_B
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
John_B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 207
Received 19 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Try replacing the EVAP purge solenoid. It is located behind the intake manifold. Someone on Facebook HR/VHR group found out the fix to the problem:

"Car sound louder? Doesn't feel like it pulls? Shift points and clutch engagement between shifts odd? Bad gas mileage? Car hesitation or stall at low RPMS? Can't get gas at times(gas nozzle clicks like tank is full even though it isn't) Controlled vacuum leak? Slight faint smell of gas fumes in car intermittently? Hear a clicking noise in engine bay that gets faster as you accelerate?"..




Last edited by John_B; 07-30-2017 at 02:11 PM.
John_B is offline  
The following users liked this post:
@vq.bryce (08-08-2018)
Old 09-08-2017, 09:27 AM
  #772  
franknstn
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 69
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Oh I never saw this thread before.. Ive been tackling this since I got my Z in 2015. lol. I thought it was vacuum leak..nope, then did throttlebody clean.. nope, different oils..nope, thought it was my ac compressor.. nope.

My only workaround now is I give it a couple hundred rpm's before I actual get the car moving, idle is 800-1000..so rev to around 1300-1400 before I clutch in and put it in gear and seems to not sputter but it does still happen every now and then so I'm not sure if its actually doing anything. But it was very rare in the summer since we had close to 80degrees by the time I had to drive to work.
franknstn is offline  
Old 07-21-2018, 05:28 PM
  #773  
datboiiJV
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Any other solutions?

Been dealing with this since for a while now. New spark plugs, replaced throttled bodies, clean MAF, checked coil packs. No codes found. Tried new EVAP solenoid as mentioned above, but not the new valve covers. Any other solutions besides the ones posted? Trying to see the deal before I jump into the VTC. This started happening to me growing little by little ever since I replaced my spark plugs and cleaned my original Throttle Bodies(now are replaced with different ones) back in December 2017. Also an acquaintance sprayed brake cleaner over the top of the whole motor to clean it, he said. I was not present for that..
happend before my retune

2008 350z
engine mods- Stillen Gen 3 Intakes, Tomei (test pipes,Ypipe, muffler)
Tuned
datboiiJV is offline  
Old 10-02-2018, 08:49 AM
  #774  
datboiiJV
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by datboiiJV View Post
Been dealing with this since for a while now. New spark plugs, replaced throttled bodies, clean MAF, checked coil packs. No codes found. Tried new EVAP solenoid as mentioned above, but not the new valve covers. Any other solutions besides the ones posted? Trying to see the deal before I jump into the VTC. This started happening to me growing little by little ever since I replaced my spark plugs and cleaned my original Throttle Bodies(now are replaced with different ones) back in December 2017. Also an acquaintance sprayed brake cleaner over the top of the whole motor to clean it, he said. I was not present for that..
happend before my retune

2008 350z
engine mods- Stillen Gen 3 Intakes, Tomei (test pipes,Ypipe, muffler)
Tuned
Tried VTC as mentioned above, $1,300 issue still there.

Replaced the gallery gaskets now the problem is finally gone!! VQ35HR. I used EPS Tuningís gallery gasket kit great price.
datboiiJV is offline  
Old 01-30-2019, 02:41 PM
  #775  
MrSausage
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hello all

After reading through the 39+ pages and creating a solution that worked for under $5, I thought I should create an account and share! If changing the oil to a lower density/viscosity oil has not alleviated your issue, and you do not want to spend $1300 of valve covers, then this solution is for you.

First of all, the issue is indeed to do with oil flow through the valve timing mechanism on older engines, specifically for the exhaust cams. To confirm that this is your fault, disconnect the wires going to the exhaust cam timing solenoids (blue and green in the picture below). Go for a drive from cold and if there is no sputtering/lurching as there normally would be, then congratulations you have confirmed the issue! (note that the engine check light will come on). Replace these wires and follow the instructions below.




This solution delays the point when the ECU allows the exhaust cam timing to activate when the car is warming up (i.e. it will not activate the solenoids for another few minutes on warmup, allowing the oil to reduce in viscosity by a certain amount).

Step 1: a brown and yellow wire runs from your water temperature sensor (on a metal pipe at the back of the engine) to the ECU. Identify this wire with a continuity check or by assessing the FSM (note there is an identically coloured 2nd wire going to the ECU which is for the park brake).
Step 2: Splice in a power trigger delay switch (similar to shown below) which you can buy from a local electronics store or ebay. Essentially this switch will transfer the signal from the original sensor/ECU path to a path with an added resistance for an adjustable period of time from when the car starts.




From the picture: The power and trigger input will be connected to a circuit that becomes live when the engine is on. The COM will be the input yellow/brown wire coming from the temperature sensor. The NC (normally closed) will be an unmodified output wire to the ECU water temp input. For the NO (normally open) connection, connect a wire with a 640ohm resistor in line which also goes to the ECU water temp input line (this resistor wire is now in parallel with the NC wire). Essentially when the car starts, the switch will run the water temp signal through the NO line with added resistance, and trick the ECU to thinking the car is fractionally colder than it really is. After the adjustable period of time which you set on the switch (set it to 5-7 mins), it will switch to the NC line and the ECU will be fed the correct engine temp. The exhaust valve timing system will then be fully activated.

This solution means that your exhaust timing solenoids will not activate prematurely when the oil is too viscous for an aged valve timing system.

Note: if you are lazy, you can just add a 640ohm or resistor to the water temp line, but this runs the risk of stopping your fans running when the engine gets hot. You can splice in just the resistor to start with to ensure the 640ohms is adequate for the climate you live in. For a temperate climate, I found 640ohms to be the minimum resistance required to prevent the activation of the exhaust solenoids. Too large of a resistance will mean the ECU thinks the engine is REALLY cold, and may impact your fuel economy too much for those first 5 minutes (the engine will idle higher).


I hope this helps someone with this issue!


Last edited by MrSausage; 01-30-2019 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Grammar
MrSausage is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pslamp32
Maintenance & Repair
17
02-08-2017 09:07 AM
KwanZito
Maintenance & Repair
28
10-05-2007 04:23 PM
XNYRKR
350Z Roadster
2
02-21-2007 07:42 PM
first350
Maintenance & Repair
14
01-08-2007 03:42 PM
ViZion
2003-2009 Nissan 350Z
9
01-26-2004 05:11 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Sputtering During Warm-up


Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: