Stripped Bolt Holes - words of advice please
02-04-2008, 04:31 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
I dont know that it has been mentioned here, but this is an ongoing problem discussed many times in the forum. You need to loosen the spreader on the strut so #1 it comes off easy and #2 it goes on with zero alignment probs with the holes. If the hole is even a few thousands interference, the thread will get screwed up. As I said earlier---If you cant start the bolts with your fingers and thread at least 4 turns with ease....find out why.
I was wondering why you kept reiterating to loosen the strut bar! I had the holes lined up at the tension that it was set at before inserting and threading the bolt. That's not the problem at all. You mentioned this above and I was like "how does this pertain...?" Each bolt was individually marked at M10x1.25. A metric size is a metric size is a metric size right???
02-04-2008, 04:32 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
What I do is bring the bolts and nut down all the way just before tight, then spread the strut til I feel it has made contact, then I tighten all 8, then set the strut
02-04-2008, 04:38 PM
#24
When I say loosen the strut Spread, I mean the adjuster on the left hand side of the bar. I wasnt there when you stripped it, I just know from experience that it is best to take all tension off the bar so that when you re- insert the bolts, the holes are precisely centered with the mating holes. If they are not the bolt will strip or sieze. You DONT reinstall it without loosening the tension
02-04-2008, 04:48 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
When I say loosen the strut Spread, I mean the adjuster on the left hand side of the bar. I wasnt there when you stripped it, I just know from experience that it is best to take all tension off the bar so that when you re- insert the bolts, the holes are precisely centered with the mating holes. If they are not the bolt will strip or sieze. You DONT reinstall it without loosening the tension
I always loosen the tension before reinstalling. Like I said, that wasn't the problem here. If you say that the bolt is M10x1.25, and I used that size (positive) and it still broke (after I made completely certain it was threading squarely) then I don't know what to say. I admit I am at fault for tightening it when it began seizing, but the only reason I did that was because I knew that bolt was supposed to be the correct size.
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