Stripped Bolt Holes - words of advice please
02-03-2008, 04:45 PM
#1
Stripped Bolt Holes - words of advice please
I have an AAM plenum spacer with the stock strut tower bar installed. I used the washers to space the bar to allow enough clearance over the plenum. Whenever I need to take the bar off and put it back on, I find myself only being able to thread a couple threads into the hole on each bolt. I'd feel much more comfortable being able to use slightly longer bolts (.5 cm - 1 cm longer) so that the bar is more secure.
In another post, I was able to find out the specs of the factory strut tower bar bolts. They are (supposedly) M10x1.25. I purchased this size with slightly greater length and went to install them only to have the first one break off inside the hole. I am at my wits end with this because I also have another bolt hole stripped on the same side. What are my options? Drill and re-thread? Heli-Coil? Why in the f-ing world would a bolt that is supposed to be the same size not fit and then break off? I feel like I am going to have to scrap my strut bar if I can't resolve this. I don't want that to happen. I need to know what to do for the future just in case I strip another bolt because I try to work on my own cars.
Thanks in advance.
In another post, I was able to find out the specs of the factory strut tower bar bolts. They are (supposedly) M10x1.25. I purchased this size with slightly greater length and went to install them only to have the first one break off inside the hole. I am at my wits end with this because I also have another bolt hole stripped on the same side. What are my options? Drill and re-thread? Heli-Coil? Why in the f-ing world would a bolt that is supposed to be the same size not fit and then break off? I feel like I am going to have to scrap my strut bar if I can't resolve this. I don't want that to happen. I need to know what to do for the future just in case I strip another bolt because I try to work on my own cars.
Thanks in advance.
02-03-2008, 05:03 PM
#2
The strut bar can be difficult to remove and replace. You remove the bar, and the car settles changing the dynamics of the suspension and strut tower.
With 4 bolts on each side there is no need for excessive torque. 24 pounds is good.
Despite the problems that you mentioned, I think you have a good understanding of the bar and its function. I would go the easiest route - tap the threads.
Last edited by davidv; 02-03-2008 at 05:45 PM.
02-03-2008, 05:34 PM
#6
Originally Posted by blackfairlady
Is that what you did dave? The bolts you have are after market. Did you use the same logic as me? Longer bolts? I need info! All of it! THis has been a b8itch for me!
Last edited by davidv; 02-03-2008 at 05:46 PM.
02-03-2008, 05:36 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by blackfairlady
that's what i tried to use.
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02-03-2008, 05:49 PM
#8
Originally Posted by SuperBlack350z
If you went to home depot, there were two diff types of threading. After looking at my stock bolts and the threads on the other two at home depot, they didn't look the same.
So you think just drill and re-thread? Or can u direct me to a place where i can get the correct bolts, just longer than stock?
02-03-2008, 05:50 PM
#9
Originally Posted by davidv
The bolts came with the Motordyne spacer. Unfortunately the instructions just say 6-14 mm bolts. When installing the bolts I just rocked the car a little. They fell right in place.
were they longer than stock? that's all i need to know.....i will contact motordyne if so...and problem solved!
02-03-2008, 07:08 PM
#10
Okay, I found on Motordyne's website that they sell a bolt kit specifically for the 350Z, including, unlike the AAM kit, extended 30mm bolts for the strut tower bar. Now, since I have 2 holes that i tried to shove Home Depot M10x1.25s in, should I still drill and re-thread those 2 holes before trying to install these new bolts, or do you think the new bolts will automatically rethread the damage I have done since they are the absolute correct size?
02-03-2008, 10:15 PM
#13
If you buy a Metric Bolt you have to know the pitch just like a SAE bolt ---There is a span of metrics that, as opposed to SAEs (course and Fine) have 3 pitch options. Point is, know what you need. Also get a Metric with at least a 8.8 hardness rating so it wont break. That is printed on the head of the bolt.
As far as fixing the mess, in the future take the stress off the strut bar before you remove it and re-stress it once its installed again.
If you havent totaled the threads you can rethread (Chase) I certainly wouldnt re-size. If you cant do that then Heli-Coil, and it goes without saying.....get the right size
I NEVER tighten a bolt until I get at least 4 threads going easily. I will be blunt...its inexcusable to strip threads.
Iv also reached the point that if I dont use Loc-Tite for a specific reason, I use anti-sieze
As far as fixing the mess, in the future take the stress off the strut bar before you remove it and re-stress it once its installed again.
If you havent totaled the threads you can rethread (Chase) I certainly wouldnt re-size. If you cant do that then Heli-Coil, and it goes without saying.....get the right size
I NEVER tighten a bolt until I get at least 4 threads going easily. I will be blunt...its inexcusable to strip threads.
Iv also reached the point that if I dont use Loc-Tite for a specific reason, I use anti-sieze
Last edited by Eazzy; 02-03-2008 at 10:20 PM.
02-04-2008, 04:43 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
As far as #10 ....at the minimum, dont re-drill, simply re-tap
02-04-2008, 06:36 AM
#16
Originally Posted by blackfairlady
Okay. I will definitely do this, and be sure to pay attention in the future to whether or not I am forcing the bolt in or not before damage is done. Which tap should I use? If I get an M10 x 1.25 I'm pretty sure I am out of luck with that because the M10 x 1.25 bolts didn't fit.
What ever the case.......THATS the tap you need to use
02-04-2008, 09:06 AM
#17
I just spoke with a Nissan parts rep and he said that maybe the little "key" thingy at Home Depot that is supposed to tell you the size and the thread may have been worn out or something and maybe it was an M10x1.0 instead of M10x1.25....I don't flippin know. I just contacted Motordyne by E-Mail about getting 6 of their 30mm extended bolts for the strut tower bar that obviously fit (considering you're using them), and we'll see if they can sell them to me separately from their $45 bolt kit.
All I need is to get the MD bolts, have them fit in four of the "good" holes I have, and then re-tap the stripped holes with the wrong pitch! then I'd be PISSED!
....i'm trying to think good thoughts right now lol
All I need is to get the MD bolts, have them fit in four of the "good" holes I have, and then re-tap the stripped holes with the wrong pitch! then I'd be PISSED!
....i'm trying to think good thoughts right now lol
02-04-2008, 03:39 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
Well ---I just checked the ones I took out this afternoon and they are 10 X 1.25s ....I checked them with a Die
And they are a # 10 Hardness
And they are a # 10 Hardness
Noted.
I still don't get why the M10 x 1.25s from the store didn't thread correctly.
02-04-2008, 04:27 PM
#20
Originally Posted by blackfairlady
Noted.
I still don't get why the M10 x 1.25s from the store didn't thread correctly.
I still don't get why the M10 x 1.25s from the store didn't thread correctly.