aireq

The switch to move the drive seat back forward and back has been acting up. Now it's finally gotten to the point where the seat back wont go foward. So now it's stuck in a reclined position.


I pulled out the switch, took it apart and clean it up. I ended up taking the actual switch apart for the seat back (man getting those little springs and ball berings back in place is a pain). Put everything back together and tried it out and the seat back would still not go forward but it would still go back.

So I took the switch harness out again and traced the lines to figure out which pins went to the two seat adjustment motors, and which remaining lines were for power. Then I took the switch up to my apartment and hooked it up to a 12V power supply and used a LED to test each switch position. As expected if I switch the leads to the LED the direction of the switch that would turn it on would change. After I was done the switched tested fine for both directions for both switches.


Then I took the switch back down to my car again and plugged everything in. . . and the seat back would still only recline. I know the switch is fine, and I know the connections to the motor must be ok because it is able to recline. Moving the seat back forward should only require changing the polarity to the motor right? And I know the switch is changing the polarity because I tested it with the LED.

If someone has wiring diagram for the seat that would help me a lot.

BRONZEE

Dumb thought, but there's not something blocking the seat rail from moving back and forth is there??

aireq

Ok now I figured out which pins on the cable coming out of the floor are 12V power. I ran two lines from those pins, to the pins on the plug that the switch harness plugs into. This caused the seat to recline more. When I switched the polarity the seat back began moving up.

So no nothing is blocking the seat from going up. I know the wiring from the plug that the switch plugs into to the motor is fine.

My only guess now is that the contacts on the switch are coroded enough to not let enough current to the motor, but not coororded enough to stop an LED from turning on. Although they didn't look that bad when I had the switch apart.


I think I'm going to go see if I can buy a new switch from a dealer and plug it in while I'm there to see if the switch is really the problem. If it isn't hopefully they'll let me returned it.