How-To Repair Stuck / Broken Window Motor ...
#201
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Hey man, I'm glad I could help out.
I got so tired of seeing bits and pieces on how to repair the damn thing, I decided to dive in and figure it out myself. I always believe that pictures are worth a thousand words. The problem we have with a lot of write-ups, is people don't know how to take enough pictures and illustrate WTF they're doing. This is why I always take the extra time to edit in my instructions with the pictures...
I got so tired of seeing bits and pieces on how to repair the damn thing, I decided to dive in and figure it out myself. I always believe that pictures are worth a thousand words. The problem we have with a lot of write-ups, is people don't know how to take enough pictures and illustrate WTF they're doing. This is why I always take the extra time to edit in my instructions with the pictures...
#204
This write up definitely helped me this past weekend when I finally decided to fix my driver's side window. Thankfully I did not have to replace my regulator....yet But when that time comes I know I'll be ready to do it easily. Thanks again.
#205
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Hey guys, did any of you have problems with the window aligment after putting everything back together? I can't roll my window back up now because it is way off. I tried messing around with the bottom track bolts but it didn't seem to change where the position where the window came back up. Any suggestions?
#207
Very helpful write-up; the best available on the interwebnets now - thanks. I have the same problem, and will be taking my door apart this weekend.
One thing I haven't seen commented upon directly: it's very possible that the reason most people have only temporary success (and the reason some people don't succeed at all) is because the carbon contacts that touch the armature aren't backed by springs with sufficient pressure. Once the carbon wears down it begins to arc, at which point it creates micro charcoal briquettes in there.
I would suggest that when rebuilding/cleaning the motors internally, people "pull" on the contacts, stretching the springs and thus create more contact pressure on the armature. That may make them last longer/cure the problem some have not getting it to work after disassembly...
Again: thanks for the write-up. I'm sure it will save time, and prevent me from breaking tabs.
One thing I haven't seen commented upon directly: it's very possible that the reason most people have only temporary success (and the reason some people don't succeed at all) is because the carbon contacts that touch the armature aren't backed by springs with sufficient pressure. Once the carbon wears down it begins to arc, at which point it creates micro charcoal briquettes in there.
I would suggest that when rebuilding/cleaning the motors internally, people "pull" on the contacts, stretching the springs and thus create more contact pressure on the armature. That may make them last longer/cure the problem some have not getting it to work after disassembly...
Again: thanks for the write-up. I'm sure it will save time, and prevent me from breaking tabs.
#208
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I'm curious if anyone else has had this issue after doing the motor clean: I did the motor carbon clean a couple of months ago and it worked perfectly! Well, yesterday I noticed my window was halfway down. I went to roll it up and it started to go up and then went all the way down and never went back up again. You could hear the motor spin but nothing happen. I took apart the door thinking it was the motor. It was perfectly clean. What happened was the cheep brass looking screws that hold the window motor to the mounting bracket came loose. (You should remember these screws because they probably stripped out when you tried to undo them to take the motor out) What was happening was the motor gear was turning but it was loose from the bracket and therefore wasn't making contact with the spindle that pulls the window up. My question is did they use some type of Locktite on the screws from the factory before to keep them from wiggling loose or did I just forget the tighten them down hard enough last time? Did anyone put Locktite on the screws?
You can see a picture of the screws I'm referring to in the original post # 15 with the caption "After unsucess with my first course of action, I decided to remove the motor from the spindle.....Back shot of the spindle/motor assemble...."
You can see a picture of the screws I'm referring to in the original post # 15 with the caption "After unsucess with my first course of action, I decided to remove the motor from the spindle.....Back shot of the spindle/motor assemble...."
#209
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If my memory serves me right, don't those screws have lock washers on them? I did not use loc-tite, and have had no problems. I sure a little med-strength loc-tite probably won't hurt. I'd be careful not to put too much though. You might end up stripping the screw head out next time you try and remove it...
#210
After having done this job, there are a couple of things I can point out to help anyone else doing this job:
1) If you lift up the gasket that seals the armature housing to the main motor housing, you'll see tabs on either side of the white plastic that hold the carbon armature contacts in place. If you use a jeweler's screwdriver to lightly pry it up, you can push that thin screwdriver in and under each tab directly behind the carbon contacts to push them further out, stretching the springs which press the contacts to the armature.
That's important, because part of the reason these motors fail is because of insufficient spring pressure as the carbon wears down. This wear and lack of spring pressure backing the contact is a big reason why some of you don't have success when trying to clean the motor.
2) Make sure you mark the axle which engages the wire pulley with a Sharpie. When you pull the armature (and the worm gear attached to it), the axle does turn slightly, and you need to make sure you put it back in the original position when reconnecting the motor to the pulley assembly.
3) Make sure you use bearing grease on the three armature contact points.
4) I would suggest doing this repair with the window in the down position. It just seems easier. I did it in the 'up' position, and the duct tape goo was a PITA - and it tried to fold my window trim downward, slightly warping it. Having now done this repair, it didn't seem to me that having the window down would not have been a problem at all.
1) If you lift up the gasket that seals the armature housing to the main motor housing, you'll see tabs on either side of the white plastic that hold the carbon armature contacts in place. If you use a jeweler's screwdriver to lightly pry it up, you can push that thin screwdriver in and under each tab directly behind the carbon contacts to push them further out, stretching the springs which press the contacts to the armature.
That's important, because part of the reason these motors fail is because of insufficient spring pressure as the carbon wears down. This wear and lack of spring pressure backing the contact is a big reason why some of you don't have success when trying to clean the motor.
2) Make sure you mark the axle which engages the wire pulley with a Sharpie. When you pull the armature (and the worm gear attached to it), the axle does turn slightly, and you need to make sure you put it back in the original position when reconnecting the motor to the pulley assembly.
3) Make sure you use bearing grease on the three armature contact points.
4) I would suggest doing this repair with the window in the down position. It just seems easier. I did it in the 'up' position, and the duct tape goo was a PITA - and it tried to fold my window trim downward, slightly warping it. Having now done this repair, it didn't seem to me that having the window down would not have been a problem at all.
Last edited by IiZZeeing; 05-19-2009 at 09:52 PM.
#212
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Going to attempt this tomorrow. Great right up.
It seems that my passenger would work one day and not another. It is not slow or struggling to go up, it either works perfectly fine or not.
Anyone else have this issue? I can hear a clicking when it is not working but it does not budge.
It seems that my passenger would work one day and not another. It is not slow or struggling to go up, it either works perfectly fine or not.
Anyone else have this issue? I can hear a clicking when it is not working but it does not budge.
#213
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Just cleaned the motor and guess what!?!?!
It works again. Would never have been able to do this without the instructions.
Took me about 3 hours but if I would have to do it again I believe it would only take an hour now.
Thanks OP.
Let's see how long this motor is going to last.
It works again. Would never have been able to do this without the instructions.
Took me about 3 hours but if I would have to do it again I believe it would only take an hour now.
Thanks OP.
Let's see how long this motor is going to last.
#214
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ok.......i feel like dumba$$.....i read thru 8 pages of other people's comments and no one asked about this.......here we go.....
I'm having trouble removing the bottom 2 window track bolts. When I turn the bolt the inner part turns with it. I tried using a flathead to hold it in place while turning the bolt, no good. How do you guys unbolt those 2 bolts????
Thanks for your help!
I'm having trouble removing the bottom 2 window track bolts. When I turn the bolt the inner part turns with it. I tried using a flathead to hold it in place while turning the bolt, no good. How do you guys unbolt those 2 bolts????
Thanks for your help!
#216
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Is there a way for me to manually pull the window up as my motor stopped working? I tried cleaning the motor and to no avail... now I cannot use the car as the window is stuck down.
Update: I go it, you just need to manually turn motor.
Update: I go it, you just need to manually turn motor.
Last edited by Duskywing; 05-31-2009 at 03:35 PM.
#217
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Dude AWESOME write up! If people just acually follow your easy step by step directions this takes 1 hour and you have a new motor! I have attempted this on my own in the past and failed. I found out that the most important part for me was using like a 1500 grit sandpaper and geting the crud of the spinning part of the motor that the brushes make contact with. Also I found using just rubbing alchohol and q tips work perfect if you dont have anything else to cean the motor and contacts with.
#218
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I just want to say Thanks so much for putting this together. It helped me tremendously! I wouldn't be able to figure out that i just need to clean the motor and fix the problem without this write up. I did it with the window up, and used duct tape. But with liquid lighter the goo came out pretty easily. I probablly did this in about 2~3hrs with a friend helping me to align the window when we put everything back together. Oh and I didn't touch the spindle, just un-bolt the motor from it. I didn't even have to re-calibrate the motor when I finished. So save yourself sometime, don't touch the spindle.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
#219
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i hope this works out for you. i have been in window motor hell. i tried to clean my first motor. driver side. it worked for about a week. then i boughnt one from auto zone. it died after a month. returned it and got another one. not to long after. my passenger window went out. and my driverside window when you roll it up. it goes up but then goes back down half way. so now i have to hold the switch in the up position for a minute or two to make it stay up. i wish i could swith to cranks
#220
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Wow! That is super detailed. My motor was shot, so I just replaced it. It was a real job taking everything part. If I had seen this post at that time, I think it would save me all the frustration of trying to pry the cover open when there are more screws hidden.
Definately appreciate the time you put in. This will go into my favorite.
Definately appreciate the time you put in. This will go into my favorite.