Thanks for the great write up! Helped me get the job done in under an hour!

 

I'm an amateur and am hoping to get it done in less than a day

 

I have a quick question regarding the window motor issue. I replaced my driver's side motor and it works however sometimes when I roll the window down especially using the auto down feature the window won't go back up. It starts to goes up about an inch and goes back down after pushing the switch over and over it will eventually go up. The motor seems to be working fine any ideas of what this could be?

 

Spartikus - You didn't do the reset procedure properly. Also, what kind of motor did you put on the car (brand-wise?) Some work better than others.

 

I have an aftermarket warranty so I just put in the motor they sent me I don't recall the brand etc. How do I perform the reset procedure? The window does go down when opening the door and then back up when you shut the door I thought this meant the reset had been done.

 

After you've mounted the motor, you have to push down on its reset button while toggling the window switch to program the window's high/low range per the procedure outlined in the FSM.

 

I wanted to share this article from AutoInc. It's a very good explanation of the window reset procedure and also gives some effective troubleshooting advice if the auto-up/drop issue persists after you've installed your new window motor:

How to Reset a Nissan Power Window

By Paul Kujawa on in January/February 2015, Tech Tips

We often get calls about power windows. Using the “auto” feature of a power window switch automatically raises or lowers a power window to the fully closed or fully open position. When attempting to close the window using the “auto” feature, if work has been performed that results in the loss of the limit switch setting, the power window will rise all the way to the top and then come back down several inches.

Nissan has a few different procedures for resetting the limit switch in the power window motor, depending on the model. If there is an external button on the power window motor, use the following procedure:

1. Raise the window to the fully closed position using the manual portion of the power window switch, not the “auto” feature.
   
2. Then press in and hold the external button on the power window motor while fully opening the window.
   
3. When the window is fully opened, release the button on the power window motor and verify that the button pops back out.
   
4. Fully raise the power window, again using just the manual portion of the power window switch, not the “auto” feature. The limit switch should now be reset.

After performing the limit switch reset procedure, if the window still goes all the way up and then comes back down several inches when using the “auto” feature of the power window switch, check the voltage on the limit switch circuit to determine if the limit switch inside the power window motor is defective.

The power window switch sends out a 5-volt reference to the limit switch. The other side of the limit switch is connected to ground. The limit switch is closed, pulling the 5-volt reference to ground when the limit switch is not being depressed. The limit switch should not be depressed when the power window is open (in any position except fully closed).

When the power window is fully closed, the limit switch should be depressed. This should open the limit switch and remove the ground for the limit switch circuit, putting 5 volts back on the limit switch signal wire. When the power window switch sees the 5 volts return on the limit switch signal wire, the power window switch knows the window is fully closed and stops power window motor operation.

If 5 volts are not present on the limit switch circuit when the window is fully closed, the power window switch will think the window is still open and will keep operating the window motor. This is why the window will close and then come back down several inches if the limit switch is not set properly.

 

I must say , awesome right up buddy ..I'm kind of A do it yourself kind of guy but wasn't too sure on how to go about doing this ..both my windows were messing up so needed to try something ..after looking at your post I decided I would try this ..Driver's window on auto wouldn't stay up , would always come back down about 6 inches which was A pain in the butt . Followed your instructions to reset motor now works like A charm ..Now my passenger window , the reset didn't fix ..any help would be greatly appreciated ..Evey time I open the passenger door , it comes down an inch and A half , but when I close the door , it doesn't go back up , and every time I open the door it keeps going down that inch and A half ...Would cleaning the motor help this any ? That's my next step if nothing else ... Thanx in advance , Bobby

 

Cleaning may help, but it seems to be a short-lived remedy. Possibly time for a new window motor(s). I've replaced both window motors when they started acting up with similar problems that you're having. I didn't try to reset or clean them. I figured if I had everything out, it would be a good time to just replace them since failure seems to be fairly common and it was an easy job.

 

Can you get to the reset button without removing the door panel? My window just rolls down by itself.

 

You could drill a hole through the door card I suppose. But it only takes a few minutes to remove the panel. In short, no...
-Icer

 

I had the same problem. I previously changed the window motors so I ruled those out, resetting did not help. Took it to the stealership and they said it was switch on the door and wanted 750 to replace it. I got one the next day from amazon for $50, takes 5 minutes to install - real easy. Fixed. dealer also said the connector to the switch was a little messed up, and I have read this too is also common so take it easy on the connector and don't smash the copper tips or anything.

 

Hey Sandi,

Which switch? The actual window control switch or the door jam switch? Or something else?
Thanks,
-Mark

 

The master power switch
check this out - I got it from Switch Doctor, comes with a lifetime warranty. $54

Fits Nissan 350Z Master Power Window Switch 2003-2008

by 4.1 out of 5 stars Price:$54.00 | FREE One-Day

• IMPORTANT: This switch has Automatic Down on the Driver's and and Front Passenger window. You should see an "A" on both the driver's window and the front passenger on your stock switch if you need this switch. Please match to your stock switch before buying.
• Switch Doctor brand switches are manufactured to the highest standards available, and are identical in appearance and function to your stock switch. This switch is the complete unit you need including buttons, circuit board, plug ins, etc.
• Switch Doctor’s hassle-free lifetime warranty is included free with all Switch Doctor brand switches. Your switch is fully covered while you own it – it’s that simple! Additionally, should you need to use this warranty, the process is easy and comes at no cost to you. Also included, if contacting us directly, is Switch Doctor's peace of mind 90 day 100% refund return policy.
• Ships within 6 hours, on average, of order completion. Shipping includes delivery confirmation for the United States, Canada, Mexico, Australia, Europe, and more!
• Free installation instructions and support are at Switch Doctor’s website or talk to one of our experts at 678-389-6725.

 

Just finished replacing the motor on my passenger window. It still sort of operated, but most times when closing the door it would do the roll down a few inches. There's been a few times I've come out the next morning seeing my window had been down a little all night, the wife didn't notice the day before. I ordered the motor last year but never got around to installing.

I must say it took me longer than it should have. 1.5 to 2 hours. I got it in and the medal panel on. Connected the control and tried the window. Worked, but didn't go all the way up. Looked for the reset button, couldn't find it. Looked online at the ad I bought it from on amazon and noticed someone ask a question about the lack of the reset switch, and that the seller said it would work.

Frustrated, I decided to put the panel back on, park it in the garage and call the seller in the morning. Get the motor attached to the panel again, secure it to the door without the doorcard and close the door. Window rolls up. Eff me, wasted all that time tearing it apart the second time.

Oh well, got everything done and it's working. At least the next time I'll be able to knock it out in 30-45 minutes. Which is good because I get the feeling the drivers side will be going at some point this summer. When I close the door, I can hear the mechanism make a noise like the passenger side did last yet.

 

Has anyone has issues with the square 3/8" drive of the motor not aligning with the regulator? My motor still works but the bolts backed out and the motor drive popped out causing my window to be stuck down. I just cannot turn the motor or regulator by hand to align it to fasten the bolts.

 

Ended up having to take the motor apart to align the drive to the regulator. Cleaned it up inside and after much pain managed to clear the brushes and put it all back together. Boom fixed.

 

A few years ago I tried uploading this mega detailed window motor swap repair guide and I could never get it to work. I just got the email notice for activity on this thread so I thought I would try one last time. It's probably too detailed! I never got around to condensing it but hopefully it helps folks. If you want a higher resolution version let me know. Cheers.

 

Triple post.....annoying as ****

 

This is a great write up. Very detailed and will definitely help when I eventually need to replace one of my motors. Thanks!