It was the button!!

But now the drop and pinch function seems to be lowering more than the drivers side? Is this common with aftermarket regulator and motors instead of NISSAN OEM ?

 

And after further reading it seems as tho the washers I couldn't remember where they were supposed to go, that I left out, are there to serve this very function... I'm guessing but do they go between the bottom regulator bolt and the metal door cover?

 

Woot woot.... glad i could help. There is a button on the motor for the window relearn...i would try that

But if it seals properly, i would leave it alone

 

Thanks for your help! Sometimes its the easiest things!!

It does seal properly, and i tried to reset procedure twice, and same thing, so I will just leave it along for now... probably lol

 

Looks like Ill be tackling this soon as my drivers side window doesnt go up or down

 

Hit door panel with your fist while holding switch up

 

Just to share some experience, I replaced my window motor for the first time about 2 years ago with the Dorman part from Amazon. a few weeks ago it stopped working, dead (first time it became intermittent before failing). Dorman has a lifetime warranty, so I'm going to send the broken one back for credit, but I sure would have liked to not have had to take the door apart again. As shown in the photos, the potting compound (looks like hot glue) has melted out of both sides. I live in California, so yeah I guess it gets hot, but it should be designed to handle this. Recommend looking at other brands if you have the option.

One interesting note, when I took the old motor out and hooked it back up to the harness, it worked - it was a little raggedy but it turned. I'm guessing it either was just very weak or has a dead spot. Anyway, maybe this will help someone out.

wm





Dorman Window Motor Melted Potting Material



Dorman Window Motor Other Side Melted Potting Material

 

Driver's window stopped working. The gouge in this thread really saved time, angst, and frustration in the replacement process. The pictures of the bolt and nut positions was extremely helpful. Thanks to all.

 

Just wanted to say thanks, this thread just helped me put a new motor in a about 45 minutes, thanks for the great write up with pictures, it cut the installation time by at least half, thanks !!!!!

 

Great write up I do have a quick question I am going to be tackling this for my driver's side window. Can someone let me know how hard it is to replace the window regulator in addition to the motor. I took my car to a shop and they are saying the window regulator went out and then this caused the motor to go out also. Thank you.

 

Hi Spartikus,

Replacing the window regulator is easy. You will need to remove the window glass first in order to remove the regulator. I know a lot of guides show people taping up the window and just removing the window motor, this method is "ok" if you don't plan to clean up the window tracks or the regulator cable. I've always removed the window glass myself and it's not difficult at all, just make sure to be careful when handling the glass during removal and installation. It's very easy to scratch it if you're not careful. I also recommend wearing some kind of rubber gloves to give you a solid grip on the window glass, otherwise hand oils and sweat can cause an accident! Before removing bolts holding the window glass to the regulator assembly, take a sharpie and mark around the bolt washers. This will help ensure you don't have any alignment issues with your window weather seals. Getting the alignment wrong can cause annoying wind turbulence noise on the freeway/highway and problems with the window rolling up and down smoothly.

Once the window glass is out, it's simply a matter of removing all of the 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the regulator panel, the whole thing will come out as one unit (window motor and regulator attached). There's some kind of foamy rubber weatherstripping around the panel edge that seals against the door, sometimes this can be a bit tacky so just carefully work the panel until it pops free. This stuff is pretty tough, but you don't want to damage it since it acts as a moisture barrier.

Once you're ready to remove the regulator, pay very close attention to the location of the large washers (they are brass colored). Make sure these go back in the same place. Also, to ensure you don't have any issues with the window vertical alignment, make a note of angle adjustment bolts at the bottom of the regulator. Count the threads or measure the gap with a ruler or pair of calipers. You want your new regulator to have the same angle adjustment as the old. Again not doing this could cause really annoying wind noise issues, it could also prevent the window from automatically cracking open correctly whenever you open the door.

Those are all the tips I can think of including for this job. Good Luck!
-Icer

 

Thank you so much for this, this may seem like a stupid question but does the window just slide out I mean don't I have to remove some bolts or something before I take it out? Also when putting back in do you just slide it back in from the top?

 

Hey Spart,

There are 3 bolts with large washers holding the window in. To access these bolts, you need to remove 3 large plastic discs stuck to the door. Then roll the window down about half way to align the bolts with those access ports in the metal door paneling. As I mentioned earlier, you want to mark the locations of these bolts with a sharpie before removal. Once the bolts are removed, the window slides out from the top.
-Icer

 

One other question anyone hear of the window regulator going out? I took the car to a shop and they are telling me the regulator went out and that made the motor go out this doesn't seem right to me. Any input on this?

 

I have not yet witnessed a catastrophic failure of a window regulator on a 350Z. Over time the cable can stretch or the plastic pulleys can crack and break. So it's completely possible the shop is telling the truth. The best way to find out, is to take the door apart.

Personally I would just replace the regulator if it's really old and call it preventative maintenance. You're going to be in there already replacing the motor, so might as well handle the regulator.
-Icer

 

I have another question can i take apart the door panel and unhook the door handle but still open the door? I know this seems silly but i am just thinking of taking the interior panel off and working on this slowly if i need to drive the car or if i mess something up and need to take it to the shop just want to know if i can still drive the car without the door panel. I hope this makes sense.

 

Yes you can, you just have to pull one of the cables that attaches to the door handle to unlock it. I also recommend plugging in the switch box for both windows and door locks. Needless to say driving the car in this state (window + door finisher removed) is not ideal.
-Icer

 

I thought I could get away with the Dorman regulator. Wishful thinking; those things are complete garbage. I'm buying an OEM part and hoping it works for 5 years instead of 2. Nissan really screwed us with this junk.

 

Time to finally fix my passenger window. I've been living with it for years.

It seems that there are now cheaper window motors out there.

http://www.carparts.com/details/Repl...EPN468707.html

http://cart.carparts.com/basket?ai=true

This one from carparts.com is about $45 delivered.

Has anyone used this? or is it a mistake?

 

I followed this guide to fix my Driver side window issue. Worked Perfect! Love my ZZZ family for things like this.
Now I can roll with windows down and hair blowing(I have no hair)lol