rattling/clunking in rear?
Go to napa and ask for TURBOLIFT struts part# 819-5539, double check the psi per strut it should be over 100..
Last edited by J. Dub; Sep 24, 2010 at 01:03 PM.
I've had the clunk since shortly after I bought the car last October (2006 Base). It went away over the summer but was coming back again now the weather's colder and is the one thing about the Z that was driving me insane...
Car has 50k miles on it so shocks were probably due for a change anyway. Picked up two Monroe OEM shocks for $80 total yesterday, an hour to fit them last night, drove around for 45 minutes and appear to be clunk free.
Cautiously optimistic at this point. When I removed the shock on the passenger side, it was obvious that there was something going on with it. The plastic piece which is sandwiched between the mounting plate which bolts to the inner wheel well and the car itself was f'ed up and the nut which holds the washers and rubber bump stops in place was not tightened much beyond hand-tight.
Anyways, hopefully the above make sense and for $80 it's not much of a risk. Impressed by the Monroe shocks - at least as good build quality as Nissans plus there was a larger locking nut on them as opposed to the smaller non-locking nut on the Nissan shocks.
Will pick up two more for the front in the next week or so and be done with shocks for another 50k miles.
Davy
Car has 50k miles on it so shocks were probably due for a change anyway. Picked up two Monroe OEM shocks for $80 total yesterday, an hour to fit them last night, drove around for 45 minutes and appear to be clunk free.
Cautiously optimistic at this point. When I removed the shock on the passenger side, it was obvious that there was something going on with it. The plastic piece which is sandwiched between the mounting plate which bolts to the inner wheel well and the car itself was f'ed up and the nut which holds the washers and rubber bump stops in place was not tightened much beyond hand-tight.
Anyways, hopefully the above make sense and for $80 it's not much of a risk. Impressed by the Monroe shocks - at least as good build quality as Nissans plus there was a larger locking nut on them as opposed to the smaller non-locking nut on the Nissan shocks.
Will pick up two more for the front in the next week or so and be done with shocks for another 50k miles.
Davy
Let me start by saying I've already read all of the past threads about the rattling and none of them fit mine to a T. I have a 2008 350Z Enthusiast with 18k on it. I have had alot of problems out of it since buying it with 13k (tire pressure sensors replaced multiple times, Wheels replaced due to hairline cracks in them, transmission replaced, hatch struts replaced, right rear suspension strut replaced, window motor replaced.) I have taken it now 4-5 times for this loud rattling in the rear of the car. When they replaced the strut in the rear it went away for about a week and then started back louder than ever so I took it back and they put foam in behind some body panels in the trunk and greased the hatch dampeners near the hatch struts and that made it mostly go away for 2 days then again it returned loud as ever but mostly on the driver's side rear (already had the right rear suspension strut replaced remember.) I myself spent 2 hours on it a few days ago putting felt dots and pieces of weather stripping in behind and between anything I could possibly think of and still have this damn rattle. I even went down the road with my girlfriend in the trunk to pinpoint where it was coming from and she says it's coming from just outside the left rear wheel well which to me screams suspension. I'm at a complete loss and I've tried everything I can think of outside of hiring a lawyer. Please help Because I can't take driving a new 350z hoopty any longer.
I've checked to make sure everything is tight inside of the cabin as well as put extra padding under and behind everything that could be rattling in back (all interior panels, spare, jack, and hatch) When she was in the trunk she said the sound is definitely coming from the other side of the wheel wells. They replaced the right rear strut under warranty a few weeks ago but in under a week the rattle was back and then started on the drivers side as well. Which if it is the fork on the bottom of the strut problem where the hole is way to big for the bolt then a factory replacement strut under warranty will change nothing correct? Oh and there's the whole strut gasket problem I guess it could be (gasket between strut and body). Oh and it is definitely louder when colder outside. If I replace the struts with aftermarket ones will it stop? I'm at a crossroads where if I or the dealership can't figure out something soon and fix it I'm either going to get rid of it or go after the lemon law with a lawyer because the magnitude of this rattling shadows my love for this car. And yes she's def a keeper lol
Make sure you have all of the documentation needed.....3 times of the same problem (in writing) with no results could warrant a lemon law case....also review the lemon law in your state.
Make sure you keep tract when your warranty is over too!
Make sure you keep tract when your warranty is over too!
Did anyone ever to decide to pursue the lawsuit? I'd definitely be game for that. I've got all the repair records since the car rolled off the lot with 11 miles on it as well as a formal complaint with Nissan USA and a file no. The repair records are at least 15 pages long. From major stuff like transmission replacement to more minor things like the entire stereo system, wheels, struts etc.. Just trying to figure out what the first step in the plan of action of pursuing the lemon law....
Did anyone ever to decide to pursue the lawsuit? I'd definitely be game for that. I've got all the repair records since the car rolled off the lot with 11 miles on it as well as a formal complaint with Nissan USA and a file no. The repair records are at least 15 pages long. From major stuff like transmission replacement to more minor things like the entire stereo system, wheels, struts etc.. Just trying to figure out what the first step in the plan of action of pursuing the lemon law....
Jesus A Christ.....i don't believe this **** is still going on.
I had my 03 Z fixed back in 2003 after a few trips back to the local dealer and it was posted here on this forum many moons ago. Dealer did replaced driver side rear hatch strut first but the clunking noise kept coming back. They then replaced the gasket and the "clunk" was gone forever.
The fix was to replace #2 with a thick cork gasket.
I took it back to the dealer for the 5th time on Tuesday to replace the left rear strut and both left and right strut gaskets. It eliminated the sound on the left yet the right is still rattling WTF!!! I would say its the right strut that needs to be replaced except they already did that not even a month ago. I don't know where to go from here??????????
the issue here is that Nissan did a poor job with rear mounting studs ...there is a gap between the strut flange and one of the frame mounted studs(inside wheelwell). You can easily fix this yourself ....go to any auto parts store and get a sheet of cork gasket material. Make your own seal.
Last edited by Ztalker; Dec 2, 2010 at 07:34 AM.
Just picked up a roll of the cork material from advance auto. What tools did you use to take off the 2 nuts at the mounting plate? Also I wouldn't suppose you have the dimensions of the gaskets you cut would ya? Thanks for your help.
It's different for all cars. We've discovered that it's the bolt that runs through the fork of the strut that wears and starts rattling around when hit. In that illustration above, look at figure 8 and look below that where it says "100-12" with a picture of a bolt. That bolt needs to be replaced and then secured.
A number of 350Zs shipped without zinc coated bolts, which caused them to rust and slowly strip their threads, thus causing a micrometer of flex in them, enough to create a clunk. Please look back a few pages and you will see someone has made a fix for this.
A number of 350Zs shipped without zinc coated bolts, which caused them to rust and slowly strip their threads, thus causing a micrometer of flex in them, enough to create a clunk. Please look back a few pages and you will see someone has made a fix for this.
My bolt is securely fastenedand there is 0 movement between it and the fork. I'm almost positive that it's at the top of the strut where my problem is because all they did Tuesday was put in new strut gaskets and it made it alot better.
My 6sp 03 Z(4/03 original owner) has had absolutely zero rattle and or clunk since. All factory shocks were replaced with Tokico since 04 ....installed 18" 06 OEM rims(no feathering) and 06 LED tail lights.
Replaced my 03 OEM factory battery for the first time last summer...Zs are well made LOL.
my rear hatch struts gave out last week....replacement cost is over 300 bucks DIY.
Last edited by Ztalker; Dec 2, 2010 at 06:12 PM.
Okay so I cut out gaskets from the cork rubber material and replaced the paper gasket with it and the rattle/clunk still lives!!! So I came back and doubled up on the gasket and still no difference. Would the fact that I cut them in the kind of diamond shape for the whole plate surface instead of the circle that was there cause it to still rattle? Where do I go from here?
Last edited by tsmoyer13; Dec 4, 2010 at 06:53 AM.
i only had to replace the driver side rear...the passenger side shock flange has good contact with the studs inside the wheelwell and makes no noise. Make sure you are replacing the bad side in the rear.
Back in 03/04 a Nissan techs(small trunk monkey) was riding in the back and was able to pin point the exact location of the "clunking noise".
Back in 03/04 a Nissan techs(small trunk monkey) was riding in the back and was able to pin point the exact location of the "clunking noise".
Since they replaced the left strut and both side gaskets earlier this week the left side has been silent but the right still rattles and that's the side I messed with all morning. What do you mean good contact with the studs?




