rattling/clunking in rear?
Well guys I have a 350ZR that previously did not have this issue with stock suspension, I just put coils on and now have a metal clunking noise from the rear suspension area on the passenger side so its not the hatch in my case since there isnt one. I dont remember any gasket being on the top shock assembly so that maybe it but I also had issues tightening the bolt that goes through the lower shock to the suspension link. I will be replacing the bolt first and if thats not it I will be trying the gasket on the top. 
Also another side note im running my coils as low as they will go so maybe im just going to have clunking period.
Also another side note im running my coils as low as they will go so maybe im just going to have clunking period.
I think it may be the pillow ball mounts. I think they are known to rattle.
Anyway, Anyone know where the thread is about the hatch "lock" is? I can't seem to find it.
EDIT: Here it is. https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...attle-fix.html
I am going to try and give this a go today. Anyone else try this one?
EDIT 2: Just tried the above.... No such luck.
Noise still happens with the trunk open. My last two theories
-Rear windshield wiper
- Some type of bolt or something must shrink in the cold and leaves play so that it jiggles around more.
I hate this noise with a passion and am willing to do anything to stop it
Last edited by carlili4190; Dec 4, 2011 at 12:35 PM.
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From: US
I think it may be the pillow ball mounts. I think they are known to rattle.
Anyway, Anyone know where the thread is about the hatch "lock" is? I can't seem to find it.
EDIT: Here it is. https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...attle-fix.html
I am going to try and give this a go today. Anyone else try this one?
EDIT 2: Just tried the above.... No such luck.
Noise still happens with the trunk open. My last two theories
-Rear windshield wiper
- Some type of bolt or something must shrink in the cold and leaves play so that it jiggles around more.
I hate this noise with a passion and am willing to do anything to stop it
Anyway, Anyone know where the thread is about the hatch "lock" is? I can't seem to find it.
EDIT: Here it is. https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...attle-fix.html
I am going to try and give this a go today. Anyone else try this one?
EDIT 2: Just tried the above.... No such luck.
Noise still happens with the trunk open. My last two theories
-Rear windshield wiper
- Some type of bolt or something must shrink in the cold and leaves play so that it jiggles around more.
I hate this noise with a passion and am willing to do anything to stop it
[flash=http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786]width="400" height="225" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=7b0b170042&photo_id=5433878625" bgcolor="#000000" allowFullScreen="true"[/flash]
Just in case it doesn't embed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27906623@N07/5433878625/
My GF was driving the car while I sat in the trunk. I think its coming from some part of the suspension. Ill update with a pic of what I mean in a couple minutes.
Just in case it doesn't embed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27906623@N07/5433878625/
My GF was driving the car while I sat in the trunk. I think its coming from some part of the suspension. Ill update with a pic of what I mean in a couple minutes.
Last edited by carlili4190; Dec 4, 2011 at 03:25 PM.
I honestly thing this is the answer.
https://my350z.com/forum/8178479-post265.html
However, I don't have the tools to take off the coils myself nor do I know how to. I don't want to waste money paying a shop to do this if it isn't the answer. This is the reason I think that the above link might fix the issue
(Not the best photos)
You can see the outline of a dirt line(by the arrows) as if this bolt moves a lot. I'm not a mechanic though. It's my gut feeling that because there is a dirt line above where the bolt is currently resting that it could be the moving of that bolt thats making the infamous "Clunk"
https://my350z.com/forum/8178479-post265.html
However, I don't have the tools to take off the coils myself nor do I know how to. I don't want to waste money paying a shop to do this if it isn't the answer. This is the reason I think that the above link might fix the issue
(Not the best photos)
You can see the outline of a dirt line(by the arrows) as if this bolt moves a lot. I'm not a mechanic though. It's my gut feeling that because there is a dirt line above where the bolt is currently resting that it could be the moving of that bolt thats making the infamous "Clunk"
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Posts: 12
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From: US
I honestly thing this is the answer.
https://my350z.com/forum/8178479-post265.html
However, I don't have the tools to take off the coils myself nor do I know how to. I don't want to waste money paying a shop to do this if it isn't the answer. This is the reason I think that the above link might fix the issue
(Not the best photos)
You can see the outline of a dirt line(by the arrows) as if this bolt moves a lot. I'm not a mechanic though. It's my gut feeling that because there is a dirt line above where the bolt is currently resting that it could be the moving of that bolt thats making the infamous "Clunk"
https://my350z.com/forum/8178479-post265.html
However, I don't have the tools to take off the coils myself nor do I know how to. I don't want to waste money paying a shop to do this if it isn't the answer. This is the reason I think that the above link might fix the issue
(Not the best photos)
You can see the outline of a dirt line(by the arrows) as if this bolt moves a lot. I'm not a mechanic though. It's my gut feeling that because there is a dirt line above where the bolt is currently resting that it could be the moving of that bolt thats making the infamous "Clunk"
That is absolutely correct. Your sound is PRECISELY the same my old car made. There's a video of it in this thread, as well. The bolt that runs through strut fork is the culprit.
I honestly thing this is the answer.
https://my350z.com/forum/8178479-post265.html
However, I don't have the tools to take off the coils myself nor do I know how to. I don't want to waste money paying a shop to do this if it isn't the answer. This is the reason I think that the above link might fix the issue
(Not the best photos)
You can see the outline of a dirt line(by the arrows) as if this bolt moves a lot. I'm not a mechanic though. It's my gut feeling that because there is a dirt line above where the bolt is currently resting that it could be the moving of that bolt thats making the infamous "Clunk"
https://my350z.com/forum/8178479-post265.html
However, I don't have the tools to take off the coils myself nor do I know how to. I don't want to waste money paying a shop to do this if it isn't the answer. This is the reason I think that the above link might fix the issue
(Not the best photos)
You can see the outline of a dirt line(by the arrows) as if this bolt moves a lot. I'm not a mechanic though. It's my gut feeling that because there is a dirt line above where the bolt is currently resting that it could be the moving of that bolt thats making the infamous "Clunk"
Thanks for the input man. I am going to try and fix this eventually. Hopefully sometime in January.
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From: Sacramento
Just picked up a 08' 350z. Took it into the dealer, and they said the mount bushings needed to be lubed with heavy silicon grease. That was completed, I got the car back, and clunking is still there. Taking it back this week for another try.
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From: US
HA, they're full of sh*t, as usual. Take it back until they fix it.
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From: Texas
i have been watching this thread for a while since i noticed this clunk coming from the rear of my z around the shock area of the driver side and more recently the passenger side also.
well today i finally got around to a little inspection to see where the noise was coming from. i have stance gr+ coilovers and didn't notice any noise for months after i installed them.
i have read a lot of posts about how the shocks and other parts have been replaced under warranty but the noise still comes back sooner of later.
well i think i have found the cause of our problems and why it comes back and why it can also effect aftermarket shocks.
i started by removing my shock from the driver side and noticed that the hole that the lower mounting bolt goes through had the paint worn off and left an "oval" where the bolts had been rubbing up and down when i went over bumps. the bolt was still pretty tight, but the problem is that the bolt hole in the shock is a little larger than the bolt that mounts the shock. you can also see the wear on the inside of the hole where the bolt was hitting the top and bottom of the hole when i went over larger bumps in the road.
the noise from the bolt hitting the shock would travel up the shock to where it mounts to the body and then would be amplified by the sheet metal of the shock tower. if the shock is replaced the noise goes away because the lower bolt is removed and re-torqued when the shock is installed. if the bolt loosens at all from fully torqued then this problem can reoccur.
so here is what i came up with.... i needed some kind of bushing or spacer that could fill in the difference between the size of the bolt and the bolt hole. i took at trip to the hardware store thinking i was going to get some washers and cut them down, but i ended up finding some pvc pipe the worked perfect. the inside diameter of the pipe was exactly the size of the bolt and the outside diameter is the exact same as the hole. no modification was needed. i just bought the shortest piece they had, 4', for $2.50.
i just had to cut a little piece, about 3/16", to fit in the hole in the shock.
you can see how good of a fit it was on the bolt and in the hole.
while i had the shock out i decided to make a gasket for where they mount to the body since there wasn't a gasket there any longer. i used a sheet of valve packing that you can get in the plumbing section at lowes for $1.25.
after i finished the install on both sides i took it out for a spin in places the clunking was unbearable before.
NOW THERE IS NO CLUNKING, NO NOISE!!!!
i hope this will help any of you that are having this same problem. sorry for the crappy iphone pics.
well today i finally got around to a little inspection to see where the noise was coming from. i have stance gr+ coilovers and didn't notice any noise for months after i installed them.
i have read a lot of posts about how the shocks and other parts have been replaced under warranty but the noise still comes back sooner of later.
well i think i have found the cause of our problems and why it comes back and why it can also effect aftermarket shocks.
i started by removing my shock from the driver side and noticed that the hole that the lower mounting bolt goes through had the paint worn off and left an "oval" where the bolts had been rubbing up and down when i went over bumps. the bolt was still pretty tight, but the problem is that the bolt hole in the shock is a little larger than the bolt that mounts the shock. you can also see the wear on the inside of the hole where the bolt was hitting the top and bottom of the hole when i went over larger bumps in the road.
the noise from the bolt hitting the shock would travel up the shock to where it mounts to the body and then would be amplified by the sheet metal of the shock tower. if the shock is replaced the noise goes away because the lower bolt is removed and re-torqued when the shock is installed. if the bolt loosens at all from fully torqued then this problem can reoccur.
so here is what i came up with.... i needed some kind of bushing or spacer that could fill in the difference between the size of the bolt and the bolt hole. i took at trip to the hardware store thinking i was going to get some washers and cut them down, but i ended up finding some pvc pipe the worked perfect. the inside diameter of the pipe was exactly the size of the bolt and the outside diameter is the exact same as the hole. no modification was needed. i just bought the shortest piece they had, 4', for $2.50.
i just had to cut a little piece, about 3/16", to fit in the hole in the shock.
you can see how good of a fit it was on the bolt and in the hole.
while i had the shock out i decided to make a gasket for where they mount to the body since there wasn't a gasket there any longer. i used a sheet of valve packing that you can get in the plumbing section at lowes for $1.25.
after i finished the install on both sides i took it out for a spin in places the clunking was unbearable before.
NOW THERE IS NO CLUNKING, NO NOISE!!!!
i hope this will help any of you that are having this same problem. sorry for the crappy iphone pics.
it was 1/2" sdr 11 cpvc 4120. I.D. 1/2". O.D. 5/8". this what I needed for the stance coilovers, but it may be different for stock.
edit---i just checked my nismo rear shocks and they had the same problem with the hole being too big for the bolt. the hole is slightly smaller but the 1/2" cpvc pipe i mentioned will still work, but it may need to be sanded a little to make it fit. the root of the problem is that they had to make the hole bigger since they needed to have some tolereance there because the nut is actually welded to the other side of the shock. if they just didnt weld the nut to the shock and left it seperate like all the others then the hole and the bolt could be the same size.
edit---i just checked my nismo rear shocks and they had the same problem with the hole being too big for the bolt. the hole is slightly smaller but the 1/2" cpvc pipe i mentioned will still work, but it may need to be sanded a little to make it fit. the root of the problem is that they had to make the hole bigger since they needed to have some tolereance there because the nut is actually welded to the other side of the shock. if they just didnt weld the nut to the shock and left it seperate like all the others then the hole and the bolt could be the same size.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 86
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From: Sacramento
First attempt for dealer to fix rattling noise was to lube bushings with heavy silicon grease. Same issue. Took it in second time and they did the following.
Replaced Bushings - (Rear Shock, Upper Mnt, Upper Bushing)
Rattle noises completely gone !!
Total for the job with labor was 136$, which was covered by warranty.
Replaced Bushings - (Rear Shock, Upper Mnt, Upper Bushing)
Rattle noises completely gone !!
Total for the job with labor was 136$, which was covered by warranty.
First attempt for dealer to fix rattling noise was to lube bushings with heavy silicon grease. Same issue. Took it in second time and they did the following.
Replaced Bushings - (Rear Shock, Upper Mnt, Upper Bushing)
Rattle noises completely gone !!
Total for the job with labor was 136$, which was covered by warranty.
Replaced Bushings - (Rear Shock, Upper Mnt, Upper Bushing)
Rattle noises completely gone !!
Total for the job with labor was 136$, which was covered by warranty.
Was your issue the same sound as the video posted above? Because I have that precise noise and there are so many people saying "I've had clunking in rear.... did this and it fixed it" that I don't know which one to do/will help me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27906623@N07/5433878625/
Last edited by MikeBit; Jan 23, 2012 at 08:09 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 717
Likes: 25
From: SC
I've got this same problem. Sounds so much like it is an interior problem but I've read every word of this entire 21 page thread and it seems like the issue is the wallowed out hole of the shock mounting fork. The problem I have is with the solution. How long are homemade PVC bushings going to last there? Obviously the forces involved where sufficient to wallow out the shock fork holes, right? There has to be a better way.
Tomorrow I'm going to remove the lift pistons on my hatch because that sounds to my ear where the problem is.
If the noise is still there I'll ride with the hatch propped open to rule out improper alignment/ contact with the hatch and the c-pillar.
If it is still there I will remove the rear shocks, first right, where the noise is most prominent, then left, where it is much less noticeable. If that pinpoints the problem then off to the dealer....mine is an 07, I'm the second owner, it has 59,200 miles on it. Isn't the drivetrain warranty 60k/ 5 years?
If out of warranty I'm going to see if I can find something better than PVC to make a bushing for the shock fork.
Tomorrow I'm going to remove the lift pistons on my hatch because that sounds to my ear where the problem is.
If the noise is still there I'll ride with the hatch propped open to rule out improper alignment/ contact with the hatch and the c-pillar.
If it is still there I will remove the rear shocks, first right, where the noise is most prominent, then left, where it is much less noticeable. If that pinpoints the problem then off to the dealer....mine is an 07, I'm the second owner, it has 59,200 miles on it. Isn't the drivetrain warranty 60k/ 5 years?
If out of warranty I'm going to see if I can find something better than PVC to make a bushing for the shock fork.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 717
Likes: 25
From: SC
Removed the passenger side hatch lift piston and there was still at least some rattle so I figured that this was a dead end. But to be thorough, I removed the driver side one as well. Drove over lots of bumps with my wife in the car and we didn't hear anything.
So on the surface it seems like I've at least found the problem.
However:
1) A number of people have initially thought they'd found and/or solved the problem only to find out that it was still there. So I'm going to drive it a few days with both lift pistons removed before I make any claims.
2) It got pretty warm here today, around 72, and that often makes the rattle less noticeable. I'll see what it sounds like tomorrow morning when it is cool.
3) Even if I have found the problem, I have not solved it. I tried the rubber band trick (except I used electrician's tape) and it did not make much difference.
Finally, if it is the hatch lift pistons and I can't solve the problem, I'll still feel a lot better knowing that it isn't a bad or loose shock. I'm going to the track again in 5 days.
So on the surface it seems like I've at least found the problem.
However:
1) A number of people have initially thought they'd found and/or solved the problem only to find out that it was still there. So I'm going to drive it a few days with both lift pistons removed before I make any claims.
2) It got pretty warm here today, around 72, and that often makes the rattle less noticeable. I'll see what it sounds like tomorrow morning when it is cool.
3) Even if I have found the problem, I have not solved it. I tried the rubber band trick (except I used electrician's tape) and it did not make much difference.
Finally, if it is the hatch lift pistons and I can't solve the problem, I'll still feel a lot better knowing that it isn't a bad or loose shock. I'm going to the track again in 5 days.
Last edited by N80; Mar 12, 2012 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Typo
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From: US
Removed the passenger side hatch lift piston and there was still at least some rattle so I figured that this was a dead end. But to be thorough, I removed the driver side one as well. Drove over lots of bumps with my wife in the car and we didn't hear anything.
So on the surface it seems like I've at least found the problem.
However:
1) A number of people have initially thought they'd found and/or solved the problem only to find out that it was still there. So I'm going to drive it a few days with both lift pistons removed before I make any claims.
2) It got pretty warm here today, around 72, and that often makes the rattle less noticeable. I'll see what it sounds like tomorrow morning when it is cool.
3) Even if I have found the problem, I have not solved it. I tried the rubber band trick (except I used electrician's tape) and it did not make much difference.
Finally, if it is the hatch lift pistons and I can't solve the problem, I'll still feel a lot better knowing that it isn't a bad or loose shock. I'm going to the track again in 5 days.
So on the surface it seems like I've at least found the problem.
However:
1) A number of people have initially thought they'd found and/or solved the problem only to find out that it was still there. So I'm going to drive it a few days with both lift pistons removed before I make any claims.
2) It got pretty warm here today, around 72, and that often makes the rattle less noticeable. I'll see what it sounds like tomorrow morning when it is cool.
3) Even if I have found the problem, I have not solved it. I tried the rubber band trick (except I used electrician's tape) and it did not make much difference.
Finally, if it is the hatch lift pistons and I can't solve the problem, I'll still feel a lot better knowing that it isn't a bad or loose shock. I'm going to the track again in 5 days.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 717
Likes: 25
From: SC
It was about 60 degrees this morning and the rattle was back, bad as ever. Drove home from work, lift pistons still off, and it was about 75 degrees. No rattle.
Conclusion: 1)the rattle in my car has nothing to do with hatch lift pistons and 2) like many others, the rattle goes away when it is warm.
Plan: I've got to inspect my car before I go to the track this weekend. If nothing is loose or worn under there I'm giving up on this until it gets cold again in the fall.
Conclusion: 1)the rattle in my car has nothing to do with hatch lift pistons and 2) like many others, the rattle goes away when it is warm.
Plan: I've got to inspect my car before I go to the track this weekend. If nothing is loose or worn under there I'm giving up on this until it gets cold again in the fall.
Ok, this started for me 6 months ago. I've torn down the trunk only to figure out it was not any of the panels. This is driving me nuts and I think I'm going to end myself soon, if anyone has a solution, please be as so kind to share it to prevent suicide on a mass scale.
