I'm having difficulty getting access to the gears. Does anyone know how they can be removed?

 

The back plate of the motor has screws. Unscrew them then it pulls off. The armature has the gears on attached so the motor cover/magnet comes off and then you can pull the armature with gear out of the regulator.

 

The regulator (cable system and things) might be damaged as well. I would remove them all from the door and examine them.

Not sure the size. Just purchase the ones we all use from the links provided and just use them. No need to worry about size. I used 120 grit to gently remove until the brush was a smooth glide through the housing. Not much needs removed.

I do not have photos of the gears. The main helical gear is on the armature then there is 1 gear it connects with inside the housing. I personally don't think the housing is designed to be taken apart and messed with. If you turn the armature the square nut on the housing should turn. If it turns freely when you rotate the armature then your gears are working fine. The regulator system (cables and guides) could be damaged. Remove them from the door and examine them.

 

I Wanna try this!! I have a question though. My question is whether or not ill need a new regulater or not.

I have a 2003 350 with 165k, im sure the motors have been replaced already. but this is how my failure went, i would have to hit the passenger window switch from the drivers panel atleast 3 times before it would auto roll up. each time i hit the button before the 3 the window would pop up a couple inches and roll down, pop up a couple inches, and then go down, finally after a couple tries it would roll up.

it did this for a couple months, every time it seemed. finally today i couldnt get it to roll down, i hit the drivers side passenger window switch and all i could hear was a click click no motor, same thing from the passenger switch.

NOW theres no click, did i fudge the regulater up trying to hit the swtich with no motor juice? i guess i could just rebuild the motor and then buy the whole unit if it doesnt work.

whats the significance of the click? thoughts?

Thanks, awesome write up btw.

 

Binder, great writeup! Thank you and everyone else who contributed!

Ickis, it sounds like your motor is done/needs a rebuild. I doubt the regulator is shot, the way they designed them it's pretty rare that one would fail unless it gets seriously gunked up. Best way to tell is taking things apart.


To the rest of us "Do it your-selfers", who want exact size replacement brushes...meaning these brushes are identical in shape/size and shunt style to the OEM originals. Check these out:

http://store.eurtonelectric.com/brus...age33-h-3.aspx

I used a micrometer/calipers to measure my old brushes width/height and then measured my new brush's depth to find these. They are a perfect match to the OEM/original DC brushes. Even the shunts are correct.

Now with that being said, I just ordered these and will be rebuilding a spare motor I happen to have. If all goes well I will post up my results. The one thing I'm not 100% sure about is the side of the brush that the shunt is attached to. Since the width and height are slightly different, this could make them unusable if it's on the wrong side. Assuming the pictures on Eurton are accurate, then I think these will work perfectly. Only time will tell.

Right now I'm using what appear to be 540 sized brushes, but I didn't like how the shunts were coming off parallel to the brush(straight off the back). The originals come off perpendicular. This allows for better fitment in the brush holder piece. Also, the width/height are smaller so there's more play with the brushes once installed, I also noticed they are a bit noisier as others have already commented, but this is most likely due to them needed to be broken in. Anyway, I'm very picky/**** about getting things done right. So if these other brushes work as I hope, then I will be re-doing the motor I just fixed last week.

 

Perhaps a video tutorial? visual learner here

 

Update from my previous post.

The Eurton brushes I linked are an excellent fit. I installed them last night in my spare power window motor. Some light sanding was required to get the curvature of the commutator right, but otherwise these are a near perfect fit. I think they are something like 0.10mm smaller in width compared to the factory originals. I haven't tried using the motor yet, I just finished up the soldering and decided to hit the rack. I'll be finishing up the rest later tonight.
-Icer signing off

 

This one is for SolidSnake and the whole Z/G community. Using much of the information provided in this thread, I have successfully rebuilt 3xWindow Motors and documented the procedure. The Youtube Video is available at the following link:


I just created this Channel and I plan on making more videos as I progress with the maintenance and upkeep of my 2006 350Z.

-Icer signing off

 

^AWESOME dude. Thanks a bunch!!_!!

 

Awesome work!!! Also thanks for the link on the brushes. I was thinking I was going to scavenge some brushes off of my old grinder the other day but I'm glad I found this thread first. Great vid really takes the guess work out of it all thanks for doing that.

 

Guys, I tried this on my passenger side. I followed the procedure just as binder described and as icer5160 demonstrated. The window has lots of power now and goes up and down smoothly.

My problem is that it seems like pinch detection is too sensitive?

I have tried the reset procedure many times. When I open the door, the window will go down a bit like it's suppose to. Then when I close the door, it goes up, touches the weatherstripping, then quickly winds down as if it pinched something.

Manual up and down work smoothly. Auto-down will only go down about an inch. Auto-up won't do anything.

Is there some type of encoder in the motor that I have misaligned? Is there a way to desensitize or disable pinch detection? I know 2 wires are power, 2 wires are reset button... what are the other wires for?

 

Hmmm since the auto up and down is not working as it should, try resetting it again..

Follow it to the letter and then it should work perfectly

 

Thank you for replying. This is the window reset procedure that I've tried at least a dozen times by now.

1. With the door open, lift up and hold the switch until the door glass is fully up.
2. Get inside the vehicle and close the door.
3. Press and hold the reset button. While holding the reset button, press down and hold the switch until the door glass is fully down. Don't use auto-down.
4. Release the reset button. Then, lift up and hold the switch until the door glass is fully up. Don't use auto-up.
5. Open the door to release the door switch. The door glass should partially move down.

The problem I am having is after this. When I close the door, it goes up and encounters slight resistance from the weatherstripping, freaks out and reverses to pull the window down.

I have done the procedure using the passenger side switch and using the driver side switch. I have done the procedure with the key on (engine off) and key on (engine on). I have even disconnected the battery and let the car sit for an hour before reconnecting and trying again.

Is my reset button bad? Is there a way to jump wires to trigger reset?

 

Hey GS37,

The procedure you used is correct, but try it with one small variation.

Keep the door closed and roll the window up to the top without using the auto-feature.

Then hold the reset button and roll the window all the way down (no auto).
Release the reset button and roll the window all the way up (no auto).
Release the window switch and open the door. The window should auto-crack.

This is what I have done and it worked perfectly.

Because the door was open when you rolled up the window, it may have messed with the programming (I'm not sure). As you know the window needs to auto-crack when the door is opened. Just do the whole procedure inside the car without opening the door until AFTER you finished it.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

Also, don't be afraid of pushing and holding that reset button down "all the way". I've found that it really needs to be sunk in there to initiate the procedure.

 

Quick update for those interested. I pulled out the rubber "button" to see what's behind it. I was expecting wires or some sort of normal button. But all it consists of is a rubber stopper that presses against a plastic encoder wheel to stall it.

When the window goes up or down you can see this wheel spin, so I then tried the reset procedure by stopping the encoder wheel with a small screwdriver instead of the rubber button. I still couldn't get the window to "program".

I then tried to confuse the window by rotating the encoder wheel to different positions without the window moving. Oddly, it behaved the same no matter how the encoder wheel was rotated.

I am led to believe my encoder must not be working, so I guess I'll have to order a replacement motor. There's some for $50 on eBay, so not too bad.

I just wanted to share my experience for others to possibly benefit from somehow.

 

^That or something is up with your weather stripping which causes too much pressure. If it's folded over or worn out the fully up position might not be able to be obtained and it thinks something is stuck in the door.

 

Sent you a PM. See if that helps.

 

Posting for no other reason than to say thanks! I did this fix and it worked perfect. One thing to note that helped me get the brush holder assy part out, is when removing the solder hold the damn thing vertically, and let gravity do the work, this way the solder wants to drip on to the iron. I live in canada and a reman unit here is 266.00 dollars. I paid 2.50 CDN + 3 dollars for sand paper - which will be used on other projects anyway AWESOME. Also another tip, my window popped out of the track on the right hand side. you can slide the window a bit to the left and get it back in the track. The window is faster , and will last longer than a reman, everyone do yourself a favor and take the time to do this fix!

 

it worked for me a few years ago in the sense that my window which wasn't working, worked (i.e., it went up and down again).

beyond that, it was awful. the motor was at least 3-4 times louder than it had been. auto up never worked. if i opened the door, the window would drop about 3 inches and wouldn't go up when the door closed. if the door was open, the window wouldn't go back up unless i put it down a bit more first. if i tried to drop the windows with the key fob, they'd go in increments of a couple inches at a time.

this was after performing the reset procedure to the letter no fewer than thirty (30) times.

swapped out the motor for a new one and suddenly everything works as it should again.

sometimes, doing it the right way instead of trying to save 100 bucks is just stupid. this was one of those instances.