when I automatically put up my passanger window it goes up then comes back down half way by itself. Is there anyway to reset it or will I need a new motor

 

There is a motor reset procedure. I don't know it off the top of my head but i've found it by just doing a google search for "350z window motor reset"

 

I got plenty of brushes left from my RC stuffs. PM me if interested.

 

Thanks Huyura! I'm received the brushes yesterday and will be fixing my motor tomorrow.

FWIW, I searched the intrawebz and local hobby shops for about three hours last Friday trying to find the correct brushes. Nobody, I mean NOBODY, NOWHERE had any 540 brushes - not local hobby/RC shops (they stopped carrying them), ebay, amazon, online r/c shops - nothing was available.

 

Glad I could help out dTor. I'm sending out three more sets to another member here out today. Brush motors are becoming scares in the rc world. Everyone is going brushless motor.

 

I finished my motor rebuild yesterday. Everything worked great, but I just have a few notes about the new brushes.

1. The OEM brush's braided wire exits the top of the brush. The new brush's braid exits the rear. No big deal, just a head's up.



2. The braid on the new brush is just about 3mm shorter than the OEM braid. so, instead of the braid going over the top of the plastic housing housing (as you will see when you remove it from the motor), you will have to either, (1) leave a few mm of the original braid attached to the tab on the plastic housing, or, (2) cut the entire OEM braid off from where it attaches to then solder the new braid onto that same tab, and route the new braid across the back of the plastic housing (as I did). I tried #1, but in the process of soldering, desoldering, trimming, soldering, desoldering, trimming, etc., I inadvertently overheated the original braid and it broke off from the tab anyway. If you can do #1 in one or two tries, you might be ok. If not, I could not tell any functional or fitment issues with both new braids routed across the back. Also, try not to use too much solder, as it will make the braid very difficult to bend to where you want it to go.





3. I used 320 grit sandpaper and did 80 2-count (front then back = 1 count), 3 inch strokes to get the brush to fit in the slot perfectly.

4. THE MOST IMPORTANT - These brushes are about 1-2mm too long. I tried getting the damn motor back into the housing for 45 minutes or so before I realized that the brushes would not push back into the housing far enough for the rotor to fit back into the housing properly. The best thing to do (before you put yours back together) is to get a dremel with the small round grinder and grind out about a mm or so from the brush, following the same rounded contour already on the end of the brush. If you grind off more than a couple of mm from each brush, don't worry - there is plenty of material on the brush (just compare the length of the new one to your old brush and you'll see what I mean). If you don't take enough off, you will not be able to get it reassembled. Trust me - I know.



Lastly, my motor sounds like something from the Terminator now. It's smooth, but mush more "electric motor" sounding than before. I think that once the new brushes get broken in it will quiet down a bit.

Good luck!

 

Are these it?

http://www.integy.com/st_main.html?p_catid=31

 

+1 to Huyrua for the brushes.

I did everything just as everyone else has been doing them and my motor works great, but it will work and then stop working randomly. Its not like it was before where it would struggle to get the window up, but it just seems like an electrical issue i didnt have before. The solders are not touch the other prongs and is a good solid solder. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks

 

The brushes i used had much longer braided wiring than the OEM so i had no issues.

Thanks for the added info to the post!

Check to make sure all the connectors from the door wiring are clean. Sounds like it could be a bad electrical connection somewhere.

 

my drivers window is acting up (wont go down sometimes).. im assuming the G/Z have the same window motor ???

 

exactly the same.

It won't go up or down sometimes because the brushes (what we replace) are not making contact with the armature in order to transfer electricity and cause the motor to spin. Solution: new brushes.

 

Which ones on eBay would be the right ones? There are different sizes

 

Radio shak?

 

I just wanted to add a bit of information to help people out.

The "gooey stuff" is paraffin based. SAVE IT; roll it in a ball as you pull it out with a pick/whatever you use. When you're done resoldering, put little ***** of the paraffin back into and around your soldering job, and use your soldering iron to melt it back underneath, around and above your job.

Resealed; just like factory.

 

awesome idea!

There might be some variations depending year or model because mine was definitely not like paraffin. We use paraffin in the office for a deep heat modality and this stuff was different. It was nasty. I would give it a shot though.

 

terminator window now activated

didnt have to do this part


just assemble the the spindle or inside into the plastic part 1st, then insert it all back into the motor, then screw the metal cap back on and solder the 2 connections.

 

It's really sticky - but it melts when it touches the soldering tip.

 

So, I am curious, anybody started a little business doing this? Because as many things as I do on my car, I never been a solder kind of guy, so... Of course, thats basically what Cardone does, but I figure maybe somebody here would put the "love" of doing it right into it...

 

I'm thinking about starting one. I'll send you a fixed motor and you ship me yours

 

I tried to offer it to a few members and there wasn't really any market. That's why I just posted how to fix them for everyone else.