Today I tried to program a remote key fob following the method described million times in this forum, ebay.. Can not get first step right for hazard lamps , they do nothing (after inserting – removing the key 6 times)
What’s my problem?

 

Program it to do what?

 

i'm guessing programming it to lock/unlock/untrunk/panic with his car?

 

YES!! Im trying to program a new keyfob so I can use it to lock - unlock the doors / boot. The procedure sound fairly easy and many people got it rightas Ive red, but Im stuck on the first step, I’m I stupid or something?

 

The local dealer tried with switching the key to the on off position rapidly in order to get the car into programming mode. I red that you have to fully insert – remove the key more than 6 times at a steady pace. The truth is that after following the dealers way we can hear some relay switching but still no lights.

@#$%@#*&

 

Over in freshalloy.com forum

<Quote>
I searched on here and found nothing definite, maybe used the wrong terms (?)

BUT...I wanted to share that you CAN, in fact, program your own keyless entry remotes...in case you want a spare, or lost one.

Is this common knowledge? If so, then I apologize.

...

If NOT...then here's how:

1) Get in the car, lock the doors.

2) Insert the key into the ignition, DO NOT TURN IT, and remove it. Do this at least 6 times in 10 seconds...leave the ley in the 6th time you insert it.

3) The hazards will flash

4) Turn the key to "ACC"

5) Push a lock OR unlock button on your remote...the hazards will flash to indicate it picked up that signal, and that remote is programmed.

That remote is done...if you have NO MORE to program, the remove the keys, unlock the door, and open it. Try the remote, it should work fine.

IF YOU HAVE A SECOND REMOTE...the do the following:

6) After step #5, hit the unlock button on the door, then hit the lock button.

7) Now push either the lock OR unlock button on the second remote...the hazards will flash to indicate it picked up the signal, and remote #2 is programmed.

YOU CAN HAVE UP TO 4 PROGRAMMED.

Repeat #6 and #7 for any addtional remotes...whenever you're done will all remotes...remove the keys form the ignition, unlock the door and open it.

Try them all to make sure they work...if one does not, you MUST repeat the procedure WITH ALL REMOTES PRESENT. You can't just go back and do one, it'll only recognize that one remote.

...................

Anyway, hope this is new or helpful...I found a few sites after a Google search that said this wouldn't work, and that you had to see the dealer...not true.

And to be clear...this is for the keyless entry remote "clicker", same one used on the Maxima, Altima, etc...

- Brian
</Quote>
__________________

 

Did you ever get it to program? I can't get mine to program using the in-out method 6 times in 10 seconds. I've tried so many times too.

 

did you lock your doors?

 

Ya. Thanks for the idea though. I've tried it slow, medium, fast. many many times. I think something's broken in my car.

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ml#post8156771

 

I just got back from the dealership. The shop manager and I are kinda tight, and instead of charging me $60 to program my remote like they normally would he said he'd take care of it for me. As the shop manager and I were walking to my car with the new remote, I just asked him out of curiosity how to program the remote, and he told me exactly what is contained in the above post, EXCEPT that the number of times to insert and take out the key was 7 times, but everything else is the same. Hope this helps you guys out that are having problems with this.

Btw, my car is a 2005 with a model #ASTU15 remote. I don't know if this procedure is specific to my remote/model year, but the way he made it seem, it wasn't.

 

Any idea why I can get the car into program mode, but when I click on the remote it does nothing?? (new battery installed on remote))

 

Did the remote work before?

 

yeah it did, It worked in the morning ,and by mid day it just stopped working
and from what I remember, my old fob randomly died randomly too, In that case thought I just picked up my other remote

 

The other day I discovered a fella on eBay that had switchblade key housings that would fit the 350Z and hold the hand clicker to form one unit. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Key-...72.m2749.l2649) I'd had the same problems everyone describes over and over again about the car not starting because the key didn't communicate with the computer and the clicker not working or being slow.
I ordered one of these housings, as a First Class FCC license holder I started thinking about how easily low power address systems in the high Megahertz frequency range could be blocked or distorted. And low and behold after popping the key halves apart I found the recognition chip drowning in rosin. After soaking over night in denatured alcohol I was able to pry the chip out of the key. I inserted it in the appropriate location of the fob with no glue or rosin. The new switch blade key I had cut by a computer out of the fob, and it worked perfectly. Also the fob has very little restriction for a narrow cast signal. The item works perfectly and starts the car every time. The clicker works at 100 yards. Can't beat that. So,...Nissan had defeated their own device with glue containing hard rosin.