Gonna do coolant change. What's a coolant I can use other then oem.

Some say stay away from prestone??

Advice welcome for which coolant to pick up

thanks

 

Who are “some?”
Why avoid Prestone Anti-freeze?

 

I've used it , and haven't had a problem with it... Unless there is something I do not know

 

, look up coolant purge nightmare in the forum, use the "leslie" funnel from amazon, nuff said

 

what? leslie?

 

this is the leslie funnel, it makes a world of difference when you change your antifreeze, and it helps get all the air out of the system.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...9649753&sr=1-1

this is how to get the air out:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...nightmare.html

i hope this is helpful, before i end this, y is prestone a bad antifreeze?

 

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...cate-free.html

 

You will get many replies here and most will be uneducated if they tell you to use any brand of antifreeze.
The particular metal composition that the japanese use is much different than US or european cars and require a HOAT antifreeze which is next to impossible to find at most auto stores. Peak makes an Asian antifreeze which is OAT and is very close to what Nissan sells and would be an acceptable substitute.
The long term effect of the other antifreezes will surely deteriorate the block and heads, this has been well documented on other forums.
For more info on this check out BIOG.com. (Bob is the oil guy. com)
Your best bet is to get the Nissan antifreeze and be done with it, and have peace of mind.

Good Luck!
Jerry

 

good stuff! thanks for the heads up!

 

Trust me I did a lot of research on this as I had many problems when I first flushed my cooling system and went with Motul expert coolant, which is an organic acid by the way.
HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology and refers to the additives.
I had many problems before i decided to drain and refill with factory antifreeze.

(as taken from "coolant confusion", one of many, many articles I read)


While there are some minor variations, three basic types of
coolant are available today: Inorganic Additive Technology
(IAT), Organic Additive Technology (OAT) and Hybrid
Organic Additive Technology (HOAT).To some extent,
each will work in any cooling system, but each has been
developed to meet car manufacturers’ specific needs for
warranty and/or maintenance intervals. Filling a vehicle that
was designed for one type of coolant with another type can
sometimes cause problems, and you shouldn’t expect the
same corrosion protection as the factory fill.
So what can a technician expect? What happens when
coolant is added that is different from what’s already in the
system? What happens when a system is drained and
refilled with a different coolant? How do we decide which
coolant to use?
CORROSION INHIBITORS
The IAT coolants have been around for generations.
They contain silicates that form a protective barrier on
everything in the cooling system, even rubber hoses. The
newer OAT coolants work very differently. Aluminum and
ferrous metals form a surface-layer of corrosion in the presence
of moisture, even the little bit of moisture in the air.
OAT coolants anneal this metal-oxide layer into a thin surface
coating that protects against further corrosion.With
either type of inhibitor, there must be enough in the coolant
solution to occasionally re-establish the barrier as needed.
Silicates plate out quickly on metal engine parts; thus, the
silicates in a coolant solution can drop to less than 20 percent
of the starting level in less than 10,000 miles. Another
problem with silicates is that, under certain conditions, they
can drop out of solution and form minute deposits. If this
occurs between a shaft and seal, the resulting abrasion will
eventually cause a leak. In a cooling system that turns off
coolant flow to the heater core when the heater is not in
use, silicates can form a gummy deposit that, over the
course of a summer season, might clog the core tubes.
So why even use silicates? Because they’re really good at
what they do, especially in iron block/aluminum head
engines. That’s why some manufacturers still specify using
coolants with silicate corrosion inhibitors. It took almost 20
years of OAT development to make a coolant that would
effectively protect against corrosion without using any silicates
at all. Some of those intermediate products are still in
use today. These are
the hybrid coolants
(HOAT) that use both
silicate and organic
acid corrosion inhibitors, and one of
them is currently the factory fill on all Asian vehicles with gasoline
engines.

Sorry for the long read.
Jerry

 

Hmmm... interesting stuff. Do you guys think standard US-spec antifreeze could have considerably less cooling capabilities than the Asian stuff? The reason I ask is at the track days i've been to, my water temps get really high after a few runs. I attribute most of it to the automatic transmission, being a torque converter based AT which generates a ton of heat. That heat gets absorbed into cars primary cooling system, via the fluid cooler heat exchange unit at the bottom of the radiator.

I bought my car used with 44K miles on it, and I have not done a full service coolant flush on it, so it may have crap in it right now. I'll admit though that i've also added a little standard US-spec antifreeze to top it off. I did take it to a Nissan dealership and they inspected my cooling system, and claimed they could not find any problems and that the coolant was good and was the correct water/coolant ratio. But I doubt they can do any chemical analysis and see if it is the wrong type of coolant.

 

^^^not trying to change the subject(although i kinda am lol, you should look into a transcooler to relieve some heat) anyways just a suggestion

vader 007 thats some good info, ill look into nissan for antifreeze next time i flush and change my coolant.

 

Thanks... I am actually planning on doing that sometime in the near future. But I still can't help but wonder if half my problems are just poor maintenance from the previous owner. I posted a thread sometime ago about this specific issue and didn't get very good responses. I got a few good ones but all attempts were unsuccessful. However I still haven't changed my antifreeze. This thread is making me re-evaluate that decision.

 

Make sure you use distilled water only, its about $1.00 a gallon at your supermarket.
There are too many chemicals and minerals in tap water that will cause scaling issues and deposites in your system.
If you used a different antifreeze, just flush it out and refill with Nissan or Toyota antifreeze. Chrysler now uses HOAT antifreeze as well but I'm not convinced the chemical composition is the same as the Asian antifreeze by my research.
The effects of deterioration of the engine block, heads, gaskets and seals are over an extended time of several years but rest assured it will happen.
Bottom line is if your not the original owner or not sure what your mechanic used,
spend the $25.00 for a gallon of factory fill and $2.00 for the distilled water and know your safe! I also am completely convinced that the Nissan antifreeze cools better in our cars than any other. (with the exception of EVANS which I dont know is compatable with our alloy engines. I had many problems with the highly rated Motul stuff.
Also another great product for flushing and conditioning is RMI 25, google it, its everything they say it is!

 

Good morning,
I am the Technical Manager at prestone coolants. You can safely use our extended life coolant in your Z after draining the OE coolant. It will provide excellent heat transfer and freeze protection for up to 5 years and 150k miles.
We make OE coolant for several asian companies, I have used our coolant in many imports for years with no issues.
If you have further coolant questions, please email me at Jay.Buckley@Honeywell.com