How can I be sure my charger is working
06-14-2010, 10:56 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
How can I be sure my charger is working
I've been having some problems with my car going dead after sitting for a week. So this weekend I did some tests to see how much current was leaking as well as other tests.
I had it on a charger before all the tests, and after testing left the battery disconnected. Later that day I tried to start my car I'd only get the solenoid clicking. I put it on the charger again around 11pm, and took it off this morning at 10am. I didn't bother trying to start it, as I had to go to work. Now I tried to start it this evening and all I get is clicking again. In addition, when I turn on the ignition the battery meter on the dash reads only 10V.
So the options I can think of are
1) My charger is not working, and the battery is never actually being charged. I bought the charger a few months ago, and the battery is only a little over a year old. When I clip on the wires I see little sparks, plus the needle on the charger does move from empty to full when I leave it on. I'm using a MotorTrend 16-030 charger. The display also has a little green LED that is not always on. Although I'm not sure what the LED indicates. It's not mentioned in the manual.
2) Something is wrong with the battery. It is almost new. But could I have done something to my battery by charging to it much or too long? If so is there some way to test the battery.
3) I screwed something up and now my car goes dead in a day rather then a week. I'm not sure what I could have done, as all I have done since it last ran was do some tests with a multimeter.
4) The battery is charged but something else if preventing the car from turning over. Is there any other reason the solenoid on the starter would click with out turning over other then a dead battery? I'm leaning towards the battery never actually being charged since the meter in the car is displaying 10V.
It's on the charger again now. Next I'm going to try to start it right after taking it off the charger to see if it's a problem with the car going dead faster now.
Anyone else have any idea what could be going wrong?
I had it on a charger before all the tests, and after testing left the battery disconnected. Later that day I tried to start my car I'd only get the solenoid clicking. I put it on the charger again around 11pm, and took it off this morning at 10am. I didn't bother trying to start it, as I had to go to work. Now I tried to start it this evening and all I get is clicking again. In addition, when I turn on the ignition the battery meter on the dash reads only 10V.
So the options I can think of are
1) My charger is not working, and the battery is never actually being charged. I bought the charger a few months ago, and the battery is only a little over a year old. When I clip on the wires I see little sparks, plus the needle on the charger does move from empty to full when I leave it on. I'm using a MotorTrend 16-030 charger. The display also has a little green LED that is not always on. Although I'm not sure what the LED indicates. It's not mentioned in the manual.
2) Something is wrong with the battery. It is almost new. But could I have done something to my battery by charging to it much or too long? If so is there some way to test the battery.
3) I screwed something up and now my car goes dead in a day rather then a week. I'm not sure what I could have done, as all I have done since it last ran was do some tests with a multimeter.
4) The battery is charged but something else if preventing the car from turning over. Is there any other reason the solenoid on the starter would click with out turning over other then a dead battery? I'm leaning towards the battery never actually being charged since the meter in the car is displaying 10V.
It's on the charger again now. Next I'm going to try to start it right after taking it off the charger to see if it's a problem with the car going dead faster now.
Anyone else have any idea what could be going wrong?
06-15-2010, 01:39 AM
#2
Registered User
Take the battery to a place that can test in under load. It sounds like it's got a dead cell.
Unless you dead-shorted it, it's unlikely you are responsible for a cell going bad. A charging system that's working properly will not over-charge the battery. It'll provide enough current to keep it fully charged plus enough to run the stuff on the car.
Unless you dead-shorted it, it's unlikely you are responsible for a cell going bad. A charging system that's working properly will not over-charge the battery. It'll provide enough current to keep it fully charged plus enough to run the stuff on the car.
06-15-2010, 07:59 AM
#5
Registered User
Open circuit voltage on the charger doesn't mean much. Voltage when connected to a battery with a dead cell doesn't mean much either.
You really need to take the battery to someone with the proper equipment to have it checked. They'll be able to tell if it's fully charged by measuring the specific gravity in each cell. They'll be able to charge it if it's low, and they'll be able to test it under load when it's fully charged. The battery is the most likely culprit here, and it's the easiest to check IF you have the proper equipment.
You really need to take the battery to someone with the proper equipment to have it checked. They'll be able to tell if it's fully charged by measuring the specific gravity in each cell. They'll be able to charge it if it's low, and they'll be able to test it under load when it's fully charged. The battery is the most likely culprit here, and it's the easiest to check IF you have the proper equipment.
Last edited by winchman; 06-15-2010 at 08:01 AM.
06-15-2010, 10:12 AM
#6
In this case it could mean the difference between a defective battery charger and a good one. If he has doubts about whether or not the charger is working a simple voltage and amperage test across the charger will answer that question for him.
06-15-2010, 12:48 PM
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Open circuit voltage on the charger doesn't mean much. Voltage when connected to a battery with a dead cell doesn't mean much either.
You really need to take the battery to someone with the proper equipment to have it checked. They'll be able to tell if it's fully charged by measuring the specific gravity in each cell. They'll be able to charge it if it's low, and they'll be able to test it under load when it's fully charged. The battery is the most likely culprit here, and it's the easiest to check IF you have the proper equipment.
You really need to take the battery to someone with the proper equipment to have it checked. They'll be able to tell if it's fully charged by measuring the specific gravity in each cell. They'll be able to charge it if it's low, and they'll be able to test it under load when it's fully charged. The battery is the most likely culprit here, and it's the easiest to check IF you have the proper equipment.
What exactly is a "dead cell" and how does it happen? Batteries don't exactly have moving parts to wear out. Is it something that can be fixed? Or will I end up needed to get a new battery? Do I need to do take the battery to an actual repair shop or will an auto parts store like Kragen have the testing equipment?
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06-15-2010, 08:52 PM
#8
Registered User
A dead cell will have an internal short (or low resistance) bridge between the plates. The plates are separated by electrolyte, and sometimes pieces of the material break off and get caught in between. It'll continue to conduct the current flow from the other cells, but it won't produce any current itself. There's no fix except getting another battery.
Never heard of Kragen, but Pep Boys, NAPA, AutoZone, etc should be able to check the battery, sell you a replacement, and might even install it.
Never heard of Kragen, but Pep Boys, NAPA, AutoZone, etc should be able to check the battery, sell you a replacement, and might even install it.
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