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Changing engine oil.

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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 08:01 PM
  #1  
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Default Changing engine oil.

Does any one know if it is very difficult to change the engine oil? I just bought my Z and have always changed the oil myself in my previous cars. I had the car up on a lift at my friend’s garage and noticed the small hole in the plastic guard under the engine from which I’m suppose to access the oil filter. The opening looked pretty tight and with the car being so low it makes it that much more challenging. I will be using a small floor jack with a couple of stands to do the oil change. Do any of you change your own oil and if so can you tell me how difficult it is and if your using some tool to access the oil filter. Also, I was thinking of running the motor on synthetic oil, any thoughts on this.

thanks
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 08:09 PM
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All you need is a 10mm socket to get all the bolts for the cover off. Around 10 in all if not a little more. Sometimes the filter is a ***** to get off if it is the original one (ie, first oil change), but access is pretty straightforward. Some people will tell you to get the washer rings for the oil plug at your local Nissan dealership. I haven't bothered and have not had any problems to date. Have fun!
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 02:54 AM
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The change is relatively easy, that is, after the initial change... the filter is glued on. Since you said you've done changes before, this one will be no different (except the removal of the bottom guard... unless you want to risk getting oil all over the place by leaving it on ). The board consensus is that synthetic oil changes should be done after ~ 5-10K miles. There is no better way to bond with your car than by interacting with its lifeline (life blood).
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 07:40 PM
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Thanks for the tip; I guess I’ll have to take the engine cover off. It’s a pain in the *** to take off all of those bolts just to change the oil. The small opening for the oil filter is use less, Nissan should’ve made it a little bigger.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 01:17 PM
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I removed the rear cover bolts just enough for me to get back to the oil filter and bend the cover along the crease line. I noticed that the small cut-out (even with the cover loose) will comfortably accomodate the oil stream to flow out into the oil pan.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 01:25 PM
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Originally posted by tennyball
I removed the rear cover bolts just enough for me to get back to the oil filter and bend the cover along the crease line. I noticed that the small cut-out (even with the cover loose) will comfortably accomodate the oil stream to flow out into the oil pan.
For me, it was the oil filter that was the problem for changing WHILE maintaining a clean (messy-free) cover. Since I don't have a lift, being under the car while trying to remove the filter presented NOT the most ideal situation for achieving the minimalist mess.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 01:52 PM
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wait... so if you put sythetic oil in your car, then ou dont have to change it for 5-10 k miles? damn... ive been changing it every 3-4.

5-10k seems a little too broad.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 01:58 PM
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No, you can put synthetic into your engine after you have reached 5k~10k miles on the car. So once your odometer shows anywhere between 5k~10k it should be afe to switch to synthetic oil.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 02:35 PM
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OOps, I just put Synthetic in my car (1600 miles). Am I wrong for doing this.

My car is in storage in my garage, I figured that was the best oil for storage.

Should I change it with regular oil once the winter is over?

Also, it took me 2 hrs to change my oil, I didnt want to take the plastic cover off. I eventually had too. And yes that oil filter is a ***** to get off. I had to poke a hole in the oil filter with a screwdriver and wedge it loose. DUMB MOVE. In the process, I chipped a piece of the groove ring that the filter screws onto. But no leaks, so I am okay.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 02:38 PM
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Has anyone tried Rhino ramps? Will the Z fit onto these. I am worried about ground clearance.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 02:50 PM
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I use the Rhino ramps. If you plan on changing your oil on a smooth surface, aka garage floor with epoxy paint, you'll need to put down carpet or similar to prevent it from sliding. With regards to clearance, you won't be able to use a back roller to get underneath the car. You have to wiggle your way back there but there is enough clearance to get to the plug and filter.

Last edited by tennyball; Nov 19, 2003 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 02:51 PM
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Originally posted by zand02max
Has anyone tried Rhino ramps? Will the Z fit onto these. I am worried about ground clearance.
The Z will accomodate Rhino ramps... my problem, well at least in my garage, is that they keep moving backwards as I try to drive onto them (even with the little rubber boots on the bottom, perhaps the garage floor is too smooth... and dusty)... I typically don't have anyone around to hold them still as I climb them and I don't want to drop the clutch too much or else I might over climb them entirely. I go with my standard jack. Would go with my 2-ton jack, but not quite sure of a "safe" location under the car to do so...
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 02:52 PM
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Originally posted by tennyball
If you plan on changing your oil on a smooth surface, aka garage floor with epoxy paint, you'll need to put down carpet or similar to prevent it from sliding.
Ahhhh, he beat me to it... but now I will take the carpet laydown advice. Thanks
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