this.

I think either the "immobilizer" circuit kicked in (some ham fisted way to kill the ecu) or a wire came loose doing the same.

Without a code reader can we not get DTC's? Going back to my garage bulletin board I have a ecu reset procedure written down that uses the accelerator pedal. It goes like this:

1. Ignition on, wait 35 seconds.
2. Stomp the accelerator pedal to the floor and release 5 times in 5 seconds.
3. Wait 7 seconds.
4. Stomp the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds, then release.
5. DTC codes are blinked out via the service engine soon light. I think that the OBDII codes are all 4 digit.
6. Stomp the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds, then release.
7. Ignition off.
8. Ecu is reset. Codes erased.

I used this procedure on my wife's Murano to diagnose a loose gas cap. P0455 iirc. When the code is being blinked out 10 blinks equals 0 in the code if memory serves.

The service engine soon light was out when I turned it back on so I would turn the ignition off before step 6 if I wanted to preserve the codes for later.

 

Alternator could have taken a dump, since if you tried to jump start it it wouldnt matter since the voltage would not be able to sustain a car to run. Thats my best guess, the same thing happened to me when my old honda's alternator took a dump all the warning lights blinked then she died.

Put a volt meter to the alternator and try and crank it and check the volts that comes from it ground it to the body of the alternator and put the power end of it on the output terminal. Volts should spike to about 15 when its being cranked, if you get nothing then its shot, or you can take it out and take it to autozone and get it tested for free.

 

With respect I think this an incorrect diagnosis. The engine does not crank at all. The fuel pump does not "prime" either. Battery voltage appears adequate as well at 11.89V. The voltage is a little low for a 7 month old battery but it should do it. The alternator will not generate any significant current at the low cranking speed.

 

Tried this, the codes never came.
I tried it about 5 different times, and used a timer.

 

I can totally be wrong but I found this in the titan forum and may be really off.

The same thing happened to me on my titan. It turned out being the ECM relay. So I switched the fog light relay with the ECM relay.

When you turn on your car does your cooling fan go on?

Here is the link:

http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55145

 

Any reason why there's a red LED light on top of the dash/left side that blinks while the car is unlocked and stays solid red when the car is locked?

No, it doesnt.
I hear a little click coming from the column but that's it. It doesnt crank, no gas pump sound, etc.

 

Ok, I misread my own handwriting on step 1. The time to wait is 3 seconds not 35. Sorry. It's right about the time of the third seat belt warning chime.

On my healthy '07 with this procedure I got 10 slowish (2Hz) blinks then 3 sets of 10 fastish (4Hz) blinks. The pattern then repeats.

After 3 tries tonight I found that I was not doing step 2 fast enough.

Ignition on is referring to the second key click just before engaging the starter. I get the service engine soon light solid at this key position until I start the motor.

 

Mine blinks all the time while unlocked. Stays lit for ~30 seconds after locking then resumes blinking.

Did not know that it did this. I keep learning.

 

I think that's the light from the factory alarm

 

yup factory alarm


did you get any mechanics' opinions yet OP? i'm eager to find out the solution

 

Well, I tried to pull the codes using the instructions provided (with the 3 second wait at the beginning) and it never worked. I'm assuming even if it didn't have a code to give, it would still give me a code of P0000? It never lit up.

And no, apparently he's been busy. He's already said he's for sure coming on friday.

He's the family mechanic though, so we're cool with him. We'll be testing everything you guys have mentioned so far. I'm actually going to show him this thread.

 

dibs on the aftermarket alarm being the issue..

 

I sure do hope so.

I have a pretty much brand new Viper 5900 alarm system that I had in my old vehicle.
Complete with a two way remote and remote start.

If the alarm is the issue, I'll have my buddy who runs an audio shop install it for me.

 

Agreed.

This sounds like an immobilizer/anti-theft issue. Whether it's on the OEM/Aftermarket alarm side, I can't really say.

Get the code read, everything else is a waste of time until then, IMO- or, see if you can find a small custom audio/alarm shop and pay to get a good car alarm guy to come check out the car. You may have to pay him off the clock but it may work out.

 

so whats the outcome with this bro?

 

Nothing yet.

Mech hasn't come by.
I'm using the truck for now. I'll keep you gais informed though. He said he was busy last friday.

 

Im experiencing similiar issues except my motor is cranking jus not turning over. I unplugged a ground from the main harness while the car was running , plugged it back in and tried starting the car and no good, this is wat started all my problems. The fans are on full blast, the led on the dash is solid red. I tried 3 different keys that worked in the car. I checked all the fuses. Nothing... I agree without reading codes you'll kno nothing....One question is can the OBD be used with a regular reader. IE no nissan consult program? I got this guy coming by saturday with the OBD scan tool from Nissan. Im hoping he can make magic.....

In for updates....

 

Immobilizer - NO, the car won't even turn over and immobilizer doesn't do that - aftermarket alarm might depending on how it works. Alternator - NO. Car would at least turn over while jumping. Aftermarket alarm - distinct possibility depending on who installed it - cross the wrong wires on a modern car and all hell breaks loose.
OP - need to get the OBDII scan done before you do anything else. If your family mechanic is that damn busy, ask if you can borrow his code reader and scan it yourself. The answer might be right there.

 

Update: My problem was a blown fuse in the box behind the battery...
I checked last night but apparently not good enough.. My advice to u is to check everything and double check it twice.....

 

Hopefully the OP sees that - especially the part about having to pull the battery to gain access since it doesn't sound like he did that.