Count Driftula

iTrader: (1)

After searching and reading, I found some interesting threads about rain, and water leaks, which was definitally an education! After doing everything that was recommended, I have somewhat fixed the problem.

I am getting water in the passenger footwell, due to rain/water on windshield. After some trouble shooting, I found the weather strip at the base of the windshield was failing, and letting water in. The water would then collect on the firewall, specifically around the rubber grommet that protects the wiring harness going into the car. The grommet is somewhat aged, and water seeps through and drips into the car.

I fixed the weather strip, and LOL water still gets in, but MUCH less water. Thats when I took a closer look and found the small hole/drain for the water in the cowl area... which drips water right on to the grommet!

There are 3 of these holes in total; one by each wiper, and the one by itself on the passenger side, which leaks on my grommet....

My question: is this drain supposed to let water drip onto the grommet, or am I missing a piece of the plastic molding that might direct water elseware? If so, lol why would the engineers just let water collect there; based on the assumption that the grommet will never fail?

PS: Duct tape over the hole/drain fixes the problem... ie no water in car after going down the windshild. ---> I assume that plugging this drain will put more stress on the other drains when it rains though...



and I will be replacing the rubber grommet shortly.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Not sure where the plastic tray drains. How about some photos of what you are talking about?

Count Driftula

iTrader: (1)

ill post pictures as soon as I get home from work

jahz41

iTrader: (14)

Did you fix the problem?

I think I might have the same problem; when it rains the mat & carpet area of both driver and pass. appear wet. Also water somehow goes in my trunk and when I open it water starts to leak from the hatch panels.

does that make sense?
is there anyone else with this problem?
I just found this out recently, I still have to check it out further.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

37 days and no photos. Very disappointed.

d3vil

PICS PLS!!!

i think i have the same problem.
last time i washed my car, i think i got the IPDM wet, then my wiper and signal switch stopped working. i tried everything to fix it, had no luck UNTIL i washed my car again tonight, everythign works again.

i must have leak somewhere, i better solve it before the electrical goes crazy

nnismo03

I'm having the same problem I know this thread is old but did you ever solve the water leak issue? Any advice is appreciated..

Count Driftula

iTrader: (1)

Hi Guys,

lol sorry for letting so much time go by without updating, I somewhat solved my problem, but I didnt really think anybody cared. but now that some other people are reporting the same issue, I will elaborate. I might actually post some pictures, but that depends on whether I find my whiskey before I find my computer once I get home from work lol

Sorry to hear that your cars are getting water leaks, I know that is a pain in the ***... To tell the truth, I never formally fixed my problem, but I did solve it.

My problem was that the rubber grommet that seals the hole for the wiring harness was no longer water proof. Also, my windshield rubber lining (weather lining) on the passenger side was no longer water proof.

This grommet can be found by popping the hood, then looking underneath the plastic cover (which is actually part of the cowl) that houses the Battery and firewall. I pop off the battery cover, then proceed to remove the rest of the plastic cover around the battery, there are about 8 or 10 little plastic push-clips (or whatever they are called) that need to be removed. Once these are removed, you can proceed to pop out the plastic cover for the fire wall. This cover is also somewhat attached to the rubber lining that seals the windshield (as it is the cowl for the windshield)... so you have to tug gently at it to get it out.. however my windshield seal is already messed up and old/cracked , so it came off with my plastic covering.

Below that, you can see the fire wall on the passenger side, and it has a horizontal portion with a bunch of wrapped wires ( wiring harness) that plunges down into the rubber grommet. I tried hard to fix the grommet, with no success. I imagine replacing it would be a small nightmare, because the wiring harness needs to be re-threaded through the center of a new grommet, which means unplugging the wires.

So I decided to bypass it all, and fix the rubber lining on the windshield, and covering the water drain holes in the passenger side cowl.

First, I put everything back together, with taking care to fit the plastic cover/cowl to the windshield correctly, as there are little brackets that hold it in place with the windshield, and it also fits in with the driver side plastic cover/cowl. lining it up slowly and watching where it connects to the car works best for re-attaching it.

Replace the plastic push clips and battery cover piece.

After that, the rest can be done with the hood opened or closed, or whichever works best for you. I closed the hood, and bought some nice, quality duct tape, and the heavy duty counterpart, Gorilla tape. (black color for aesthetics if you wish).

Starting in the middle of the very bottom of the windshield, I used the traditional duct tape first to tape over the plastic cowl, the rubber windshield liner, and a bit of the bottom most part of the windshield. I used varying lengths of tape strips from the middle of the car, outwards toward the passenger side.

After I completely covered the weather stripping, windshield, and cowl, I did it again with the gorilla tape, but not as high up the windshield as the duct tape. after repeating the taping process, I finally covered the drain hole, first with duct tape, and then with a slightly smaller piece of gorilla tape. this part is a little tricky, as the groove in the base of the cowl is a very tight space, with a hard angle for the tape to bond.

Make sure everything is flat, and pressed down hard so that it seals out the water. If it’s hot outside, that’s great, as the tapes best bonding temperature is 85 degrees Fahrenheit and up. otherwise, you may want to consider using a hairdryer to finish the job. I wouldn’t let it get wet for the first 24 hours if possible, as the tape needs time to bond.

After I did this, my interior was waterproof!! To be honest, this was my temporary solution and test to see if it worked. When it proved successful, I ended up leaving it all winter, so that I could get the weather stripping repaired and seek out a more permanent solution in the summer. I actually never ended up completing that, and I still have the tape there today lol. Nobody even notices it until I point it out.

I know the duct tape is a bit tacky way to fix this problem, but this was how I solved it. If you looking to hold a great resale value, you might want to take it to a window repair shop for the weather stripping and may also want to repair the rubber grommet at the dealer. My car is slowly on its way to a drift missile, so the small bit of tape doesn’t bother me, especially since no one even notices it in the first place.


I hope this helps man, I know it may not be permanent , but it will hold for quite a while. And should it need repairing again, it’s not that expensive.

Let me know if I can help with anything else, or clarify anything up!

Matt Kopa

im currently having the same problem. after a bit of head scratching, i figured that as i disassembled the cowl to run the power lines to my recent sub install, i never properly re-installed the cowl- allowing MASSIVE amounts of water to drip into my passenger side floor. the water does in deed drip around the gromet and also into this white crated looking cavity (i have no idea what its for but it seems to be behind where the airbag would sit). this in turn was dripping water all behind the airbag area and onto the floor. after re-examination of the cowl, i noticed that the gasket has slight to moderate deterioration. solution- went to hall nissan to special order a new one for 110. these cowls cant be bought new online since that are special order, HOWEVER, these cowls are universal in the 04-08 models so if you have a junk yard in your area i would highly suggest you go that route and save yourself a buck. i should be getting the replacement part in a few days and ill follow up to let you know how the new one holds up.

also, for a temp fix, find some sort of adhesive as stated earlier to cover the drain hole in the center of the panel. again, thats only temporary.

Deteria

iTrader: (2)

I have this same issue after a sub install. My tech pulled up the grommet and cut a slit to run the amp cable. This led to the leaking. However, he rerouted it thru the top of the grommet, but water still leaks inside because of that slit and the grommet not sealing perfectly around the bottom.

Would Seal-All work if I used a ring of it around the grommet?

Sold @ home depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.USYwqh2krC8

Tracktimeplz

It may, but why not just replace the part?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear...utton=Go&cat=1

Deteria

iTrader: (2)

It's the large one with all the wire harnesses running through, so as stated above it would be a ***** to fix. I figured just sealing the ring that touches the car's metal.

Just wanted some opinions to see if Seal-All is the right one to get for what I'm trying to do.

Tracktimeplz

After doing some research on its MSDS, I see it contains Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which will destroy some rubbers, and most silicon items. Its also quite toxic, especially when exposed to heat.


Why not go with a basic silicone caulk?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.USZuPKXV98E

Deteria

iTrader: (2)

Ahh I'll see if I can get that. Thanks!

Pelicanpirate

I have the same issue on my 2008 Touring. Why not plug that hole up over the grommet and drill another hole 3 or 4 inches away. ??