prfectz

the tank contents dump into the master cylinder assembly and are then dispersed into the rest of the system. Basically, if someone says to check the fluid level of the master cylinder, they are asking to check the level of that tank. Master cylinder fluid = brake fluid. I didn't understand your question at first, but I think this is the answer you are looking for

If air bubbles are present in the tube, continue to pump/bleed until there are none left

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

Does the tank mean reservoir tank? So check fluid of master cylinder = check reservoir tank?

To op: yes that's how air bubbles look like if they're trapped in the tubing. If you've done the tranny and diff change with a pump, then it looks identical to that...

prfectz

@Shawz1102

Check out the last picture on the first post in this thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...lled-pics.html

That is what you see when you remove the master cylinder cover (opposite the battery cover). The guy added some stuff you won't have, but the point is to show you that the larger tank/reservoir is feeding directly into the master cylinder (what the red brace is supporting). This is not to be confused with the clutch master cylinder if you have a manual transmission.

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

alright, so when people say "check fluid level of master cylinder to make sure it doesnt overflow", theyre saying to check the brake reservoir tank right? that's all the clarification i need. i just want to know that there isn't 2 brake tanks: a brake fluid reservoir tank and a master cylinder tank.

Buster-here

These are the same thing. You only check the brake fluid level and top up the level at this one location. Generally I wouldn't try getting fluid out of the system at this location but are more likely to lower the level by bleeding some fluid out at one or more of the calipers.

xthejokerx

iTrader: (1)

What's wrong with getting fluid from the reservoir tank first? If it's because of the risk of letting the reservoir tank get too low and attracting air bubbles, then I could top off new fluid once the reservoir tank hits Minimum or something right?

Out of curiosity... Will new and old brake fluid intermix? My guess is no since I'll need to bleed from calipers until I see the new brake fluid.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I actually only do about 6 pumps per caliper after every day on the track.

plumpzz

iTrader: (10)

I guess thats not so bad. I havnt had a problem. I'm running on street tires though and the hardest Ive used the brakes were at Monticello. Black brake dust ftw.

The only problem I forsee is that since my wilwood bbk doesnt have dust shields on the pistons, i can pull dust in from there.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I have the same calipers. All you have to do is spray off the pistons with brake cleaner when you swap you street pads back on and your doing the bleed.

Buster-here

Brake fluid is hard on your paint. Easier not to risk splashing it about trying to get it out there. Brake fluid here comes in sealed bottles. I buy the size bottle I want (250ml and 500ml are common) and then use the lot i.e. I don't keep part used bottles of brake fluid around the place to carry on with next time (the fine print on the bottle says you can).

Brake fluid in your system goes a bit darker with age/use to my mind and new and old will mix readily if given the chance but normally what goes in the top displaces what you bleed out the bottom (at calipers) with virtually no mixing I'm guessing. If the fluid hasn't been in there that long then colour change may be minimal.

Chris_B

I also remove as much as I can from the M/C reservoir. A turkey baster works pretty well. Just use some towels around the reservoir to keep drops of brake fluid from spilling on any painted areas. Just refill it with fresh fluid before you start to bleed. This will speed up bleeding just a bit, but the most important thing is that you won't push any more fluid through the system that has been contaminated by the diaphragm under the M/C cap.

Chris

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

So that means after I change new brake pads and bled my fluid, it'll top off at the max line on the reservoir, and as brake pads begin to thin, brake fluid will also gradually go below the max line?

Chris_B

Exactly. Do not top off the brake fluid unless it goes below the 'Min' line (if it ever does, you might have a leak somewhere). As the pads wear, fluid will be displaced as the pistons move out to compensate. The fluid level sensor in the M/C reservoir will eventually turn on the dashboard brake warning indicator when it is low due to pad wear.

Chris

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh, so that's how the brake warning light works...

So if i don't have any squeaking sound when i brake or the brake light coming off, then my pads are still probably useable right?

Chris_B

Generally, yes. But it is always a better idea to check the pads directly from time to time. Relying on the light or the squealer clips can result in ruined rotors.

Chris