hey ppl, its about time for me to change my tranny and diff oil, only prob is, i never done it b4, at least never on a Z, so can someone out there show me where the drain and refill is on the tranny and diff? and recommend a good oil, ive been readin that redline makes good trans oil, but what about the diff? thanx

 

You've got that many miles that it needs changing already? Royal Purple has been reported to be better then Redline recently.

If you're still having tranny problems I wouldn't change anything in it. If NNA notices upon inspection you're sh*t out of luck for any future warranty.

 

I changed to Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 in both applications.

I think you will find that people using Redline have been mixing two different types together for use in the differential. No need to do this with the Amsoil.

I backed up onto my Rhino ramps and then jacked up the front end to be level. Drain plugs are easy to find on the bottom of each component and the fill plugs are on the side. (passenger side in the case of the tranny).
You will need some type of small pump to get the fluid up into the fill plug- I bought a small hand pump used to fill the lower unit on an outboard motor- cost about $8.00
You'll need a total of about 5 quarts of fluid of whatever flavor you choose.

Naturally, if you can rent or borrow a lift in a service station, your task is much easier.

btw- I changed mine at 3700 miles and was glad that I did.

 

At 2600 miles I changed to Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the tranny and Redline 75W90 in the differential. I went with the Lightweight Shockproof to make shifting easier, and it did.

I recently noticed (15,500 miles) that the tranny wasn't shifting the best, syncros sometimes just not quite catching. I figure with a little wear on the tranny the Lightweight Shockproof just wasn't heavy enough. Since I use Royal Purple motor oil, I just changed over to Royal Purple MaxGear 75W/90 and I like the change. It seems to shift signifigantly smoother so far.

A lot of people like Amsoil, I have heard mixed things about it. After a lot of research I chose Royal Purple. I have been very pleased with all of the Royal Purple products I have tried.

Good description of the job above, but I drove straight up on the rhino ramps & put the rear on stands! Take the top fill plug out before the bottom drain plug, that gives you a better "flush". You will need a 10mm hex driver to remove the plugs. Be careful of the drain plug in the diff, it has a magnet and will probably be fuzzy with metal shavings.

 

Hello,

I guess the front end of the Z did not scrape at all with the Rhino ramp? Could you post the model, price and where I could order one? Also, which jack did you use?


Thanks for info.

 

just curious, but if u backup or drive up to the rhino ramps, and then u jack up the car, isnt that a bit dangerous? is it not a good idea just drive up the rhino ramp and drain it? i kno there is a possiblility to not drain out all the old oil, but u'll still get most of it if u warm the oil up to operating temp? just a caution thought...thnx

 

I can't locate anything on the ramps themselves- I bought them at Walmart for around $25.00 The clearance for use in the front is close, but it does make it. I also created some extensions from short pieces of 2X8s for a more gradual approach.

You can use any hydraulic car jack with low enough drop to slide under the car, but you need the following (or something like it) to straddle the ridge at the jack points:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...X&appId=385505

 

dchi_t: the reason I backed up on the ramps is that I could then set the parking brake before jacking the front. You need to have the car level when it is jacked up to get the proper fluid level when you fill both components.

 

The rhino ramp is made for low-profile cars (I bought mine at Pep Boys). As mentioned before, it is close but no problem. The ramp has a good well at the top so there's no chance the car will roll once it's on the ramps, as long as you're on relatively level ground. I put the front tires on the ramps, use a hydraulic floor jack at the approved jack points, then put stands under the lower spring mounts. No problems.