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HELP ASAP- Clutch pedal has no resistance

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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Default HELP ASAP- Clutch pedal has no resistance

Pulled into my friends driveway- sitting with the car on- went to get push down on the clutch and it just goes all the way back- and sticks there- no resistance at all

when you pull it out and springs back into place

you can start the car- put it into gear when it is off

clutch has never slipped, any ideas as it was working and then now it doesn't.

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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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I am guessing it is one of the cylinders- but I dont know why it would just die all of the sudden- from what I have read they usually show signs of wear and tear

I am going to top the fluids off tomorrow- see if that does anything

if it is one of the cylinders does anyone have a link to the service manuals or a how to guide on replacing them?
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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From: Sin City
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Start with a bleed , most likely the master is bad. The master likes to stick, read up on some threads about it. Very simple to replace or rebuild.
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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thats what I am thinking. I have done it with a friend on an s4- its a major PITA searching on new forums haha- hope its just the fluid needs topping off- in the mean time Im going to get drunk and launch some fireworks now
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wikiwiki
thats what I am thinking. I have done it with a friend on an s4- its a major PITA searching on new forums haha- hope its just the fluid needs topping off- in the mean time Im going to get drunk and launch some fireworks now
Winner of best noob thread and thread reply.

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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 07:44 PM
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haha I try- good news is all of my fingers are still here after last night


anywho went to go see if any pressure had built up in the clutch this morning- nothing- still kick right to the floor and stays there

So unless anyone has any other ideas I am going to bleed it- see if that works- if not definitely do the master-

questions are should I do the slave at the same time- and any step by steps or anything to that nature
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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It's a pretty straight forward job. Get up under the dash and unbolt the plunger from the pedal, then go into the engine bay and unbolt the lines. Have a container ready to catch the brake fluid and try not to let it drip anywhere. Brake fluid destroys paint. Once you've got the lines unbolted and the fluids stopped dripping... Unplug any wiring and unbolt it from the firewall.

That's a very rough how-to, since I've never done a master cylinder on a Z, but that should be close enough to get you on the right track.

Personally, I would do the slave while you're at it but that's just me. Don't forget to bleed the system when you're done.

Good luck.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Wikiwiki
haha I try- good news is all of my fingers are still here after last night


anywho went to go see if any pressure had built up in the clutch this morning- nothing- still kick right to the floor and stays there

So unless anyone has any other ideas I am going to bleed it- see if that works- if not definitely do the master-

questions are should I do the slave at the same time- and any step by steps or anything to that nature
Unless you can get the master cylinder piston to return, you will not be able to bleed it. If you have fluid in the reservoir now, its definatly the piston sticking. If it is dry, you may be able to bleed it.

It is only 2 bolts, one line and a clip that holds it to the pedal. Simple to remove, then one c clip once its removed to disassambe and clean. Cleaning it should fix it, if you want to rebuild it, its only $15 for replacement parts directly from Nissan.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Unless you can get the master cylinder piston to return, you will not be able to bleed it. If you have fluid in the reservoir now, its definatly the piston sticking. If it is dry, you may be able to bleed it.

It is only 2 bolts, one line and a clip that holds it to the pedal. Simple to remove, then one c clip once its removed to disassambe and clean. Cleaning it should fix it, if you want to rebuild it, its only $15 for replacement parts directly from Nissan.
I am going to clean it and if that doesnt work I'll be ordering the refurb kit tonight- it seems pretty straightforward- only question I have s bleeding this similar to the brakes- and if so where is the bleed screw at.

Also can I run a braided line from the reservoir to the cylinder just for ***** and giggles?

Last edited by Wikiwiki; Jul 6, 2011 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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From: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
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Originally Posted by Wikiwiki
I am going to clean it and if that doesnt work I'll be ordering the refurb kit tonight- it seems pretty straightforward- only question I have s bleeding this similar to the brakes- and if so where is the bleed screw at.

Also can I run a braided line from the reservoir to the cylinder just for ***** and giggles?
id say if youre gna take it apart, why NOT rebuild it? Buy it at a local Nissan parts counter.

The bleed valve is on the slave cyl.
And since its all going dry, yes, replace w a SS line.. possibly a new slave if youre hi mileage.

I just replaced my entire set up, but Terrsmak is big into just cleaning his.. I prefer to keep my plunger dirty.. thats what they make penecillin for . Ha. jk.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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alright- took it apart- every spring and seal is in perfect order- just a shitload of gunk on it- reassembled it and then ran to the store to get some fluid- started to rain so bleeding it will have to wait until tomorrow-
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 09:29 AM
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That gunk came from somewhere... Do you have any aftermarket lines? I've heard some low quality lines will cause issues with gunk.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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I'm 99.9% sure that you have a 07+ 350z and the problem is the clutch slave cylinder (CSC).


Read here for the recall:

https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/3281...-cylinder.html


Read here for the after market CSC:

https://my350z.com/forum/drivetrain/...?highlight=csc


Read here for my solution to eliminate the problem for ever:

https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/4495...?highlight=csc
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by VividRacing
That gunk came from somewhere... Do you have any aftermarket lines? I've heard some low quality lines will cause issues with gunk.
Its an orange/brown sediment, probably from the fluid breaking down. My 05 that had this problem is bone stock.

OP... as far is braided line. The one between the master and slave i would replace, the one between the master and reservior i wouldnt both with.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Its an orange/brown sediment, probably from the fluid breaking down. My 05 that had this problem is bone stock.

OP... as far is braided line. The one between the master and slave i would replace, the one between the master and reservior i wouldnt both with.
The car is an 03

-there was an orange gunk all around the piston and the seals


went to go put the fluid in and bleed it today- started to drizzle- my phone goes off saying flash flood warning and not even 5 seconds later it starts pouring- rained 4 inches in 1.5 hours

needless to say havent gotten around to fixing it yet

also just a question- there is no fluid in it right now- the clutch still kicks all the way to the floor when pushed on- that should be to no fluid correct- I sure as hell hope so as this has been a major pain


still better than my last car- went through a transmission- 2 turbos, clutch and flywheel on that *****- b5 S4
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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Correct. Without fluid, the pedal will go to the floor. Don't push the pedal more than neccesary. Dry seal + dry reservoir = torn seal. Gotta have something to lube it up, dude!
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 12:30 AM
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What year is ur Z?

In my personal experience, it's the clutch slave cylinder. My car is in the shop right now for this. And this is the third time it has happened. Also, I noticed that the csc fails when it's hot out, I live in Vegas so desert heat doesn't really help.

If u have an 07, this is the most likely culprit. But if u have a different year, start with the clutch slave cylinder. Then go down the line, next up is the clutch master cylinder, then seals, then look for leaks.

Edit: just read ur car is an 03. Still, start at looking at the csc. The symptoms u just said resembles a failed csc. I know, it sucks driving then that clutch sticks to the bottom.

Last edited by Panda_stunter; Jul 13, 2011 at 12:32 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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Just put fluid in it and pull the pedal back up by hand, being an 03 the stock slave line probably gave out. As it seems to happen a lot.
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