procedure for break in on new final drive gears
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: millerplace ny
procedure for break in on new final drive gears
hey whats up guy, just got my car back from the shop with the new 4.08 fd gears in it 
i was just looking for the proper way to break them in and the milage for dif oil change. so any one that could help please drop me a line. thank you
i was just looking for the proper way to break them in and the milage for dif oil change. so any one that could help please drop me a line. thank you
http://www.ringpinion.com/TechnicalHelp/FAQ.aspx#37
Follow that and you'll be good. Do not be tempted to lay into the throttle and really load up the gears.
I followed this procedure exactly and my 4.08s are practically silent with solid aluminum diff mounts.
Follow that and you'll be good. Do not be tempted to lay into the throttle and really load up the gears.
I followed this procedure exactly and my 4.08s are practically silent with solid aluminum diff mounts.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: millerplace ny
http://www.ringpinion.com/TechnicalHelp/FAQ.aspx#37
Follow that and you'll be good. Do not be tempted to lay into the throttle and really load up the gears.
I followed this procedure exactly and my 4.08s are practically silent with solid aluminum diff mounts.
Follow that and you'll be good. Do not be tempted to lay into the throttle and really load up the gears.
I followed this procedure exactly and my 4.08s are practically silent with solid aluminum diff mounts.
thanks a lot. 
by the way whats your take on the intake on the hr i have the aem system but most say a drop in with the stock system is the best way to go, what your take on it being we have the same year Z.
Last edited by easternriderkid; Aug 3, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
Having done my research and overall engineering review I can say the HR has 2 options that will produce safe, consistent gains on an HR:
1) K&N drop ins, cheap and simple. Will give little to no gains but sound better and reusable.
2) Injen long tubes, not cheap and requires pulling bumper to install / clean filters. Gives proven gains without dangerously leaning the motor out ( Stillen long tubes trick the MAF sensors to lean out for a little extra power). That said, with nothing but a stillen catback exhaust and injen intakes my car was running a bit lean at wide open (14.0 AFR). Osirus reflash brought me back to a safe 12.5 AFR.
1) K&N drop ins, cheap and simple. Will give little to no gains but sound better and reusable.
2) Injen long tubes, not cheap and requires pulling bumper to install / clean filters. Gives proven gains without dangerously leaning the motor out ( Stillen long tubes trick the MAF sensors to lean out for a little extra power). That said, with nothing but a stillen catback exhaust and injen intakes my car was running a bit lean at wide open (14.0 AFR). Osirus reflash brought me back to a safe 12.5 AFR.
If you want a proper break in procedure, here is what we recommend:
-Avoid heavy acceleration during the break in process
-Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15-20 min and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
-Repeat this process for the first 100 miles
-Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing anything
-Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear seat during the gear's initial break in period.
-Avoid heavy acceleration during the break in process
-Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15-20 min and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
-Repeat this process for the first 100 miles
-Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing anything
-Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear seat during the gear's initial break in period.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
