2003 touring. manual. stock. 100xxx miles.

just did a basic tune up, plugs, oil and new battery.. car def feels much better from just doing that.

5 days later...

i was driving the car and it just shut off on me after it wouldn't rev and i let it cruise. did it twice.

now it cranks longer before starting. when i installed the new battery it would start like a new car.

where to start? anyone had this happen? help please.

these are the codes i get:
P0335
P0345
P0152
P0057

 

did you gap the plugs right?

 

Platinum and Iridium are not gappable, as long as its not bent down from shipping leave the gap alone.

Is the MIL on? I hate to ask but people ignore it too much.

 

I bought these straight from nissan. factory plugs.. so i didnt think they needed to be gapped.

yes the check engine light has been on for quite sometime now.. i can pull the codes again and see if any new codes come up.

 

The code is your problem. Don't ignore codes.

 

Cam position sensors?
What do the codes say?

 

ive had the MIL light on for a few years now. and only now when i changed the battery and plugs it shut off twice while driving and it cranks longer before starting.

 

It might be the crank sensor need to be replace!!!

 

it might be. i know that was giving me problems a few months back.. but it stopped.. so i'll start with that.

 

If you can't afford to do service when needed SELL IT.

 

ECM triggers MIL when problem begins. It's like going to the doctor when you start sneezing, instead of waiting till you are on your deathbed. It only shows one code is present, perhaps a EVAP code that does not affect driveability. By being used to the light on, when a more serious code pops up, you don't realize it. Even small problems can lead to more expensive repairs if ignored.

Pull codes report back. Don't throw any parts at it yet.

 

Sounds like CAM sensors, that's sound like the same problem I had. Codes said 1 was bad, I just replaced both cause they're easy to get to

But, pull the codes first. Autozones and O'Reilly's both offer a free code scan if you don't have access to one.

 

Normally if the crank sensoer is bad, it will not crank...or just barely crank and mis-fire a ton...ask me how I know (don't ask..sad story)

 

these are some things to try if the CELs don't give you any guildance.

Check the Coil-pack to Spark plug fitment...it is easy to not get those on correctly

and See if the Spark plugs are all tourqed correctly..

 

drove the car after it sat for about 4 days. sounded like it was misfiring. i replaced the crank positioning sensor and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 10 minutes.. then it died twice before i was able to get it back home. i hear an air leak on the front passenger side of the plenum.. also it takes forever to turn on (crank sensor again?)

I'll be goin to autozone today and getting codes.

 

here are the codes:

P0335
P0345
P0152
P0057

I Replaced the crank sensor with a spare one i had, car starter just fine, drove it for about 3 miles and shut off again, turned it on, shut off again. then was able to drive it back home just fine.

drove it the next day, shut off again. and it takes its sweet time to start.. (crank sensor issue)

any suggestions.

i think ive replaced cam sensors before. could it be something else thats causing the issue?

 

DTC P0057 HO2S2 HEATER Bank 2

DTC P0152 HO2S1 Bank 2

DTC P0335 CKP SENSOR (POS)

DTC P0345 CMP SENSOR (PHASE) Bank 2


Ok, lots of trouble bank 2. Hard to say, customer just came in, let me think about this.

 

take your time let me know what you think.. should i start replacing sensors, is bank 2 passenger side head?

 

No don't replace anything yet. Bank 2 is driver's side. If you are lucky you have two bad O2 sensors and CKP, but maybe ground or short on B2 is causing problem for all of them. If you have access to DVOM you can diagnose first, otherwise we can only guess or do tricks.

For the 02 sensors you can swap them right to left and clear codes, see if it sets other bank. Most likely they are both bad.

If the CMP and CKP sensors are not bad themselves it either wiring issue or the sensor isn't seeing the gaps on the camshaft end for CMP or the flywheel for CKP. The CMP goes bad pretty often around 100k so I would guess it really is bad, you can swap that left to right as well to be sure.

 

awesome. i'll start with that. and report back