2007 350z Idle Surging (I know..)
01-03-2016, 08:29 AM
#21
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I know this is an old thread, but I have been dealing with this problem for a few weeks now on my 2007 hr. I have replaced the ecm with a used one and replaced the throttle bodies with oem used as well. Problem is still there. Ive done everything; attempted idle relearn over 100 times even using the nissandatascan android app, lowered rpm by disconnecting injectors, clogging intakes, unbolting tb's. Nothing works. It is my understanding now that as carbon buildup accumulates in the throttle bodies, the ecm compensates by gradually adjusting the butterfly angle to keep the idle within the correct range. When cleaned, the ecm is now compensating for carbon buildup that is no longer there. This leads me to believe that the throttle bodies have nothing to do with it, but rather its the ecm that is just very stubborn to relearn the correct position of the butterfly valve.
I repeatedly asked my local dealer about an ecu update/reprogram to which they repeatedly responded "no we don't have anything like that." So I did a little digging and came across nissan's techinfo webpage. On this page they clearly express that all of their ecms are easily reprogrammable, the files can even be downloaded for $20 on their website. Turns out there is both a technical service bulletin and a software revision for the 2007 HR (EV11A to EV11C). Something the morons at the dealer didn't even attempt to research.
So I will be going to a dealer that is a little more knowledgeable and bring them my downloaded reprogram file and see what happens. My bet is that once the ecm is wiped clean and reprogrammed, the base butterfly position will be reset and this issue will be gone. I will be sure post my results.
This simple TB cleaning has turned out to be a complete nightmare so I hope this info helps those with the same issue. Never has the saying "if it aint broke, don't fix it." ever been more true.
I repeatedly asked my local dealer about an ecu update/reprogram to which they repeatedly responded "no we don't have anything like that." So I did a little digging and came across nissan's techinfo webpage. On this page they clearly express that all of their ecms are easily reprogrammable, the files can even be downloaded for $20 on their website. Turns out there is both a technical service bulletin and a software revision for the 2007 HR (EV11A to EV11C). Something the morons at the dealer didn't even attempt to research.
So I will be going to a dealer that is a little more knowledgeable and bring them my downloaded reprogram file and see what happens. My bet is that once the ecm is wiped clean and reprogrammed, the base butterfly position will be reset and this issue will be gone. I will be sure post my results.
This simple TB cleaning has turned out to be a complete nightmare so I hope this info helps those with the same issue. Never has the saying "if it aint broke, don't fix it." ever been more true.
Last edited by aredd2009; 01-04-2016 at 08:17 PM.
01-04-2016, 09:22 PM
#22
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So just to update, I was able to finally get the idle air relearn to take therefore it was unnecessary for me to get the ecm reprogrammed at the dealer. This may still be an option for some.
My best advice for anyone who may have this issue is before buying any parts or going to the dealer, buy a bluetooth OBDII scanner and get the nissan data scan app (NDSIII) for android (free for lite version). The bluetooth device that worked for me was the BAFX OBDII scanner from amazon ($23).
With this scanner/app combination you can carry out the idle air volume relearn at the touch of a button rather than doing the pedal dance or going to the dealer. This will be quite helpful as you very well may be attempting the manual relearn process hundreds of times without knowing for sure if your timing was correct.
What eventually worked for me was I replaced the TB's with used ones from a salvage yard. Though I replaced the tb's, I am not entirely sure if the tb's were the culprit. When I first installed the used Tb's, the idle surging remained and the idle relearn would not complete. So I put the original tb's back on. Nothing changed and again the idle relearn wouldn't complete. So I decided to try something different the third time and instead left the battery connected when installing the used tb's. After doing this, the idle was much lower and wasn't surging as it was before. The idle however still remained around 1000 rpm in neutral. I then attempted the idle relearn and it worked. FINALLY.
So what I recommend is before buying expensive parts or making a trip to the dealer, try unplugging the wire harnesses from the TB's while the battery is still connected and the car is off. Leave them unplugged for a few minutes and plug them back in. I believe that this perhaps lets the ecm know that they are being replaced/removed and therefore the ecm is more likely to accept a relearn. After plugging everything back in, carry out the released pedal position learning and the closed tb position learning. Start the car and warm it up. Make sure all the parameters listed in the service manual are met.
description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
PREPARATION
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON
Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamp will not be illuminated.
Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
Vehicle speed: Stopped
Transmission: Warmed-up
For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
These parameters (excluding auto trans temp) can be easily monitored using NDSIII therefore you will know the best time to carry out the relearn.I recommend not letting the coolant temp get higher than 195 degrees F because the cooling fans may turn on which will cause the relearn to time out. Be sure that there are no dtc's stored in the ecm, again these can be read and cleared in the NDSIII app. If there are dtc's, clear them, and then turn the car off and start it back up again. Just know that every time you turn the car off the NDSIII app will lose its connection to your obd device so you will have to reconnect it.
After all the parameters are met, attempt the relearn process using the app. If the counter on the app goes more than 500, the relearn more than likely will not take (should take around 20 seconds). If this happens simply let it time out, or better, reconnect the bluetooth scanner on the "info" screen and try the relearn again.
If this process doesn't work then it is possible that your tb's are bad. By "bad" I mean too clean; letting too much air into the engine bringing up the rpm's which in turn causes the ecm to cut the fuel to bring the idle back down. The relearn will more than likely never take during this condition. I would try an ecm reprogram (cheaper) before replacing throttle bodies and if that doesn't work source some used tb's (dirty ones haha) so the idle will be low enough to carry out the relearn.
My best advice for anyone who may have this issue is before buying any parts or going to the dealer, buy a bluetooth OBDII scanner and get the nissan data scan app (NDSIII) for android (free for lite version). The bluetooth device that worked for me was the BAFX OBDII scanner from amazon ($23).
With this scanner/app combination you can carry out the idle air volume relearn at the touch of a button rather than doing the pedal dance or going to the dealer. This will be quite helpful as you very well may be attempting the manual relearn process hundreds of times without knowing for sure if your timing was correct.
What eventually worked for me was I replaced the TB's with used ones from a salvage yard. Though I replaced the tb's, I am not entirely sure if the tb's were the culprit. When I first installed the used Tb's, the idle surging remained and the idle relearn would not complete. So I put the original tb's back on. Nothing changed and again the idle relearn wouldn't complete. So I decided to try something different the third time and instead left the battery connected when installing the used tb's. After doing this, the idle was much lower and wasn't surging as it was before. The idle however still remained around 1000 rpm in neutral. I then attempted the idle relearn and it worked. FINALLY.
So what I recommend is before buying expensive parts or making a trip to the dealer, try unplugging the wire harnesses from the TB's while the battery is still connected and the car is off. Leave them unplugged for a few minutes and plug them back in. I believe that this perhaps lets the ecm know that they are being replaced/removed and therefore the ecm is more likely to accept a relearn. After plugging everything back in, carry out the released pedal position learning and the closed tb position learning. Start the car and warm it up. Make sure all the parameters listed in the service manual are met.
description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
PREPARATION
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON
Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamp will not be illuminated.
Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
Vehicle speed: Stopped
Transmission: Warmed-up
For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
These parameters (excluding auto trans temp) can be easily monitored using NDSIII therefore you will know the best time to carry out the relearn.I recommend not letting the coolant temp get higher than 195 degrees F because the cooling fans may turn on which will cause the relearn to time out. Be sure that there are no dtc's stored in the ecm, again these can be read and cleared in the NDSIII app. If there are dtc's, clear them, and then turn the car off and start it back up again. Just know that every time you turn the car off the NDSIII app will lose its connection to your obd device so you will have to reconnect it.
After all the parameters are met, attempt the relearn process using the app. If the counter on the app goes more than 500, the relearn more than likely will not take (should take around 20 seconds). If this happens simply let it time out, or better, reconnect the bluetooth scanner on the "info" screen and try the relearn again.
If this process doesn't work then it is possible that your tb's are bad. By "bad" I mean too clean; letting too much air into the engine bringing up the rpm's which in turn causes the ecm to cut the fuel to bring the idle back down. The relearn will more than likely never take during this condition. I would try an ecm reprogram (cheaper) before replacing throttle bodies and if that doesn't work source some used tb's (dirty ones haha) so the idle will be low enough to carry out the relearn.
Last edited by aredd2009; 01-04-2016 at 09:29 PM.
03-15-2019, 01:54 PM
#23
High idle/Idle surge after cleaning throttle bodies
Regarding people with high idle/idle surge issue w/ 07'350z after cleaning the throttle bodies. the issue is not bad throttle bodies. Its the ECU!!....i stumbled across a tuner based in Concord CA named Eugene Turkov that found a way to fix the issue with the ECU. Decided to send my ECU out to him in hopes he could solve the issue. Based on his previous experience with the problem he said the latest firmware update will NOT fix the problem. The fix was upgrading the original ECU to a firmware from a similar 2008 model. My car is now running healthier than when i purchased it 4 years ago! Let me know if any of you need his info!
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zwei_the_c (03-30-2019)
04-27-2020, 09:20 PM
#24
2008 idle issue
Hey guys, new to this forum stuff, but I need help. Really hoping someone can help. I picked up a 2008 350z 2 months ago with 55k miles and it has had a idle issue since i bought it.. it idles at around 500-600 and is always within that Parameter but every second. It like breathes every second. I didnt think it was going to be such a big problem but now I seem to realize that maybe thats why they sold it. I tried everything possible, cleaned TB’s, cleaned MAF, cleaned intakes, Connected everything tightly, disconnected battery, attempted to do all the relearns, spark plug change with the OEM spark plugs from Nissan, and nothing seems to fix it. Hopefully you guys can help me, thanks
07-08-2020, 03:26 AM
#25
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So just to update, I was able to finally get the idle air relearn to take therefore it was unnecessary for me to get the ecm reprogrammed at the dealer. This may still be an option for some.
My best advice for anyone who may have this issue is before buying any parts or going to the dealer, buy a bluetooth OBDII scanner and get the nissan data scan app (NDSIII) for android (free for lite version). The bluetooth device that worked for me was the BAFX OBDII scanner from amazon ($23).
With this scanner/app combination you can carry out the idle air volume relearn at the touch of a button rather than doing the pedal dance or going to the dealer. This will be quite helpful as you very well may be attempting the manual relearn process hundreds of times without knowing for sure if your timing was correct.
What eventually worked for me was I replaced the TB's with used ones from a salvage yard. Though I replaced the tb's, I am not entirely sure if the tb's were the culprit. When I first installed the used Tb's, the idle surging remained and the idle relearn would not complete. So I put the original tb's back on. Nothing changed and again the idle relearn wouldn't complete. So I decided to try something different the third time and instead left the battery connected when installing the used tb's. After doing this, the idle was much lower and wasn't surging as it was before. The idle however still remained around 1000 rpm in neutral. I then attempted the idle relearn and it worked. FINALLY.
So what I recommend is before buying expensive parts or making a trip to the dealer, try unplugging the wire harnesses from the TB's while the battery is still connected and the car is off. Leave them unplugged for a few minutes and plug them back in. I believe that this perhaps lets the ecm know that they are being replaced/removed and therefore the ecm is more likely to accept a relearn. After plugging everything back in, carry out the released pedal position learning and the closed tb position learning. Start the car and warm it up. Make sure all the parameters listed in the service manual are met.
description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
PREPARATION
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON
Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamp will not be illuminated.
Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
Vehicle speed: Stopped
Transmission: Warmed-up
For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
These parameters (excluding auto trans temp) can be easily monitored using NDSIII therefore you will know the best time to carry out the relearn.I recommend not letting the coolant temp get higher than 195 degrees F because the cooling fans may turn on which will cause the relearn to time out. Be sure that there are no dtc's stored in the ecm, again these can be read and cleared in the NDSIII app. If there are dtc's, clear them, and then turn the car off and start it back up again. Just know that every time you turn the car off the NDSIII app will lose its connection to your obd device so you will have to reconnect it.
After all the parameters are met, attempt the relearn process using the app. If the counter on the app goes more than 500, the relearn more than likely will not take (should take around 20 seconds). If this happens simply let it time out, or better, reconnect the bluetooth scanner on the "info" screen and try the relearn again.
If this process doesn't work then it is possible that your tb's are bad. By "bad" I mean too clean; letting too much air into the engine bringing up the rpm's which in turn causes the ecm to cut the fuel to bring the idle back down. The relearn will more than likely never take during this condition. I would try an ecm reprogram (cheaper) before replacing throttle bodies and if that doesn't work source some used tb's (dirty ones haha) so the idle will be low enough to carry out the relearn.
My best advice for anyone who may have this issue is before buying any parts or going to the dealer, buy a bluetooth OBDII scanner and get the nissan data scan app (NDSIII) for android (free for lite version). The bluetooth device that worked for me was the BAFX OBDII scanner from amazon ($23).
With this scanner/app combination you can carry out the idle air volume relearn at the touch of a button rather than doing the pedal dance or going to the dealer. This will be quite helpful as you very well may be attempting the manual relearn process hundreds of times without knowing for sure if your timing was correct.
What eventually worked for me was I replaced the TB's with used ones from a salvage yard. Though I replaced the tb's, I am not entirely sure if the tb's were the culprit. When I first installed the used Tb's, the idle surging remained and the idle relearn would not complete. So I put the original tb's back on. Nothing changed and again the idle relearn wouldn't complete. So I decided to try something different the third time and instead left the battery connected when installing the used tb's. After doing this, the idle was much lower and wasn't surging as it was before. The idle however still remained around 1000 rpm in neutral. I then attempted the idle relearn and it worked. FINALLY.
So what I recommend is before buying expensive parts or making a trip to the dealer, try unplugging the wire harnesses from the TB's while the battery is still connected and the car is off. Leave them unplugged for a few minutes and plug them back in. I believe that this perhaps lets the ecm know that they are being replaced/removed and therefore the ecm is more likely to accept a relearn. After plugging everything back in, carry out the released pedal position learning and the closed tb position learning. Start the car and warm it up. Make sure all the parameters listed in the service manual are met.
description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
PREPARATION
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON
Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamp will not be illuminated.
Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
Vehicle speed: Stopped
Transmission: Warmed-up
For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
These parameters (excluding auto trans temp) can be easily monitored using NDSIII therefore you will know the best time to carry out the relearn.I recommend not letting the coolant temp get higher than 195 degrees F because the cooling fans may turn on which will cause the relearn to time out. Be sure that there are no dtc's stored in the ecm, again these can be read and cleared in the NDSIII app. If there are dtc's, clear them, and then turn the car off and start it back up again. Just know that every time you turn the car off the NDSIII app will lose its connection to your obd device so you will have to reconnect it.
After all the parameters are met, attempt the relearn process using the app. If the counter on the app goes more than 500, the relearn more than likely will not take (should take around 20 seconds). If this happens simply let it time out, or better, reconnect the bluetooth scanner on the "info" screen and try the relearn again.
If this process doesn't work then it is possible that your tb's are bad. By "bad" I mean too clean; letting too much air into the engine bringing up the rpm's which in turn causes the ecm to cut the fuel to bring the idle back down. The relearn will more than likely never take during this condition. I would try an ecm reprogram (cheaper) before replacing throttle bodies and if that doesn't work source some used tb's (dirty ones haha) so the idle will be low enough to carry out the relearn.
I have been having the same issues in a vq35hr skyline (g37) and couldn't get the idle learn to work. So I took your advice and unplugged both throttle body connectors whilst the car battery was still connected. Plugged them both back in - and was able to complete the idle reset - and now I'm idling at 750rpm!
not sure why it fixed the issue - but perhaps it resets the ecu glitch....
now lets hope the high idle surging doesn't come back!
05-30-2021, 08:04 AM
#27
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My 2007 HR is stuck in this hell too. I have disconnected TBs with battery connected several times, a few of which I disconnected the battery and drained ecu power a few times grasping at straws. I am seriously ready to put a few bullets in this car despite 2 years of upgrading everything. Anyone else come up with a fix? Eugene contact info?
05-30-2021, 09:15 AM
#28
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My 2007 HR is stuck in this hell too. I have disconnected TBs with battery connected several times, a few of which I disconnected the battery and drained ecu power a few times grasping at straws. I am seriously ready to put a few bullets in this car despite 2 years of upgrading everything. Anyone else come up with a fix? Eugene contact info?
his shop is called enthusiast auto care in concord, CA
i called his shop and he called me back on his personal phone so im going to give you the shop number which is (415) 830-4008
good luck to you !
05-30-2021, 01:17 PM
#29
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Holy cow... Thank you so much!!! I pulled the dirty TBs off my other Hr this morning and tried that and it will now idle for a minute then surge... But the surge is about 200rpm lower than the clean TBs. Thank you again for getting back to me. I am stressed and my wife is not happy about carpooling.
06-03-2021, 07:14 PM
#30
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2007 Idle Surge Fix
OK... I am finally able to provide a real solution after 2 weeks of torture. I tried EVERYTHING I could find on the posts here and other places with no luck, including unplugging the TB's with the battery plugged in and even pulled two dirty TB's off my other 07. I left a message at the shop of Eugene T in CA but never got a call back so I reached out to a guy in Portland Oregon named Joe who advertises Nissan Uprev tunes on Craigslist. He texted me back and I ordered an UPREV cable and license and he emailed me the 07 newest flash as well as the 08 flash that I asked for. He suggested the newest 07 would likely fix the idle surge ECU glitch. It did NOT! After all of the steps of downloading and uploading, I ended up with a car still stuck in idle surge. 3 full pedal dance sequences later and the issue remained.
I went inside and downloaded the 08 flash and uploaded it. Started the car up and it only reached 1000 rpm and dove quickly to 600-650 and stayed there. (THERE REALLY WERE ANGELS SINGING AT THAT VERY MOMENT!) The idle surge was gone. I have taken several trips to town and back and the car is running smoothly and idling perfectly.
Now me new NGK spark plugs and clean TB's can do their job. In another day or two, I will have enough data to send Joe for my TUNE...which I was planning to buy anyway.
SO...DO NOT BUY NEW TB's, or used ones...DO NOT BUY A NEW / USED ECU. Buy an UPREV cable and get the tune you probably need anyway and the problem is over. DAMN the 07 ecu glitch. BTW...it was $700 for the cable, license, base tune flashes, ARC license, 2 tunes, CC processing fee from Paypal and $25 express shipping. No bullet holes in my car needed.
I went inside and downloaded the 08 flash and uploaded it. Started the car up and it only reached 1000 rpm and dove quickly to 600-650 and stayed there. (THERE REALLY WERE ANGELS SINGING AT THAT VERY MOMENT!) The idle surge was gone. I have taken several trips to town and back and the car is running smoothly and idling perfectly.
Now me new NGK spark plugs and clean TB's can do their job. In another day or two, I will have enough data to send Joe for my TUNE...which I was planning to buy anyway.
SO...DO NOT BUY NEW TB's, or used ones...DO NOT BUY A NEW / USED ECU. Buy an UPREV cable and get the tune you probably need anyway and the problem is over. DAMN the 07 ecu glitch. BTW...it was $700 for the cable, license, base tune flashes, ARC license, 2 tunes, CC processing fee from Paypal and $25 express shipping. No bullet holes in my car needed.
Last edited by Zspin; 06-05-2021 at 02:39 PM. Reason: Tablet went berserk and shut off in the text box
06-28-2021, 08:13 PM
#32
OK... I am finally able to provide a real solution after 2 weeks of torture. I tried EVERYTHING I could find on the posts here and other places with no luck, including unplugging the TB's with the battery plugged in and even pulled two dirty TB's off my other 07. I left a message at the shop of Eugene T in CA but never got a call back so I reached out to a guy in Portland Oregon named Joe who advertises Nissan Uprev tunes on Craigslist. He texted me back and I ordered an UPREV cable and license and he emailed me the 07 newest flash as well as the 08 flash that I asked for. He suggested the newest 07 would likely fix the idle surge ECU glitch. It did NOT! After all of the steps of downloading and uploading, I ended up with a car still stuck in idle surge. 3 full pedal dance sequences later and the issue remained.
I went inside and downloaded the 08 flash and uploaded it. Started the car up and it only reached 1000 rpm and dove quickly to 600-650 and stayed there. (THERE REALLY WERE ANGELS SINGING AT THAT VERY MOMENT!) The idle surge was gone. I have taken several trips to town and back and the car is running smoothly and idling perfectly.
Now me new NGK spark plugs and clean TB's can do their job. In another day or two, I will have enough data to send Joe for my TUNE...which I was planning to buy anyway.
SO...DO NOT BUY NEW TB's, or used ones...DO NOT BUY A NEW / USED ECU. Buy an UPREV cable and get the tune you probably need anyway and the problem is over. DAMN the 07 ecu glitch. BTW...it was $700 for the cable, license, base tune flashes, ARC license, 2 tunes, CC processing fee from Paypal and $25 express shipping. No bullet holes in my car needed.
I went inside and downloaded the 08 flash and uploaded it. Started the car up and it only reached 1000 rpm and dove quickly to 600-650 and stayed there. (THERE REALLY WERE ANGELS SINGING AT THAT VERY MOMENT!) The idle surge was gone. I have taken several trips to town and back and the car is running smoothly and idling perfectly.
Now me new NGK spark plugs and clean TB's can do their job. In another day or two, I will have enough data to send Joe for my TUNE...which I was planning to buy anyway.
SO...DO NOT BUY NEW TB's, or used ones...DO NOT BUY A NEW / USED ECU. Buy an UPREV cable and get the tune you probably need anyway and the problem is over. DAMN the 07 ecu glitch. BTW...it was $700 for the cable, license, base tune flashes, ARC license, 2 tunes, CC processing fee from Paypal and $25 express shipping. No bullet holes in my car needed.
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Joshnz350! (09-28-2021)
09-28-2021, 05:52 PM
#33
Uprev tune..
are you the one tuning his car with uprev and fixing the issue? If so I’m interested in going that route also! I plan on having it tuned soon anyways.
09-28-2021, 07:02 PM
#35
Alright guys! Update, I got with Joe with the uprev from the comments above he sent me the cables and an updated flash and it lowered my surge by 200 rpm then I did the manual idle relearn and it’s now fixed and idles at 600 rpm. I would suggest getting ahold of him and he can get your car fixed back to stock. After that he’ll work with you to get your tune setup. 🤙🏻 Good luck guys!
Last edited by Joshnz350!; 10-09-2021 at 06:52 PM.
10-09-2021, 06:13 PM
#36
it’s saying I don’t have access to messages or some crap. Idk if it’s bc I just Created the account or what? I don’t want to put my number on here so send me an email at radar212detail@gmail.com and I’ll delete this post after
04-06-2022, 06:10 PM
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Im having the same issue with my 07 350z. I can’t private message you. If you can get back to me @ rogeliop1000@gmail.com
03-27-2023, 02:51 PM
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SS21CA
Maintenance & Repair
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07-28-2009 05:40 PM
