TKAMF

Hello I’m in need of some advice as I’ve exhausted all of my attempts and am stumped as to what to do or try. I have searched and tested the obvious things. On to the issue and what I’ve tried so far.

Car:
2003 350z Touring Auto with Osiris Uprev flash
nothing new has been added to the car in awhile. 😢 replaced window motors a month ago.

Issue 1:
started noticing that I couldn’t fill up my gas tank, it would just keep turning off the pump. At first I thought it was the station so I tried other gas pumps and same thing. Finally after a few weeks my check engine light came on with error code: P01446 Evap control valve. I bought a new purge valve from autozone PV719
Before I got a chance replace it I ran into issue number 2 below. Unable to start the car won’t crank. I did replace the purge valve hoping it would cure my no start issue but no luck with that. Not sure if it’s related to my no start issue but wanted to include it just in case.

Issue 2:
ok so I drive my Z everyday always have since 2002 when it was delivered. So it hasn’t been sitting Last week I needed to move it out of the garage and it hesitated just a little bit but started on the same crank.
a few hours later I attempted to move it back into the garage and the story begins.

When I turn the key all I get is a single click, all dash lights initially come on, (ABS, ATcheck, TCS, Slip) lights go out (CheckEngine,Battery,Gas) lights stay on. I can hear the fuel pump priming and some clicking near or on the IPDM. I haven’t done any work to it recently or changed anything.

Things I’ve tried:
searching here and YouTube I found a few things but nothing worked.
-Removed Battery had it tested both voltage and load tests were good
-Removed starter and had it tested it passed all tests
-Replaced entire IPDM with a neighbors 2003 that is being parted out. No change
​​​​​​-Tested all fuses twice (inside panel ,IPDM&near battery)

I think that about covers it. I hope someone reads this and has something I can try or knows what it could possibly be. Thanks for any help. It really has been a problem free car until this. 94k miles.

TKAMF

So I tested another ECU from a 2003 350z and I got same thing. So I’ve somewhat rule out ECU,IPDM,Starter,Battery & Fuses
I checked ground wire from battery to frame and it’s good no corrosion and it tests fine with meter.

im lost as to what to try or test now? Anyone have any suggestions?

I tried to manually initiate starter but I don’t think I did it correctly as nothing happened. Anyone know a good tutorial for that maybe I just missed something.

jhc

Here's what I'd do-
Since you state both battery and starter tested out fine I would put the car in Neutral/Park, and apply 12 volts DIRECTLY to the starter. If nothing happens, at least one of the test results was wrong. If the starter turns, it's possible the switch on your clutch pedal(manual) or neutral position safety switch(Auto) is bad. Also if the Anti-Theft red light stays lit on the dash, the NATS disabler isn't recognizing your key. Obviously if it's a manual you can try to roll start it until you figure it out. GL!

TKAMF

Removed Battery had it tested both voltage and load tests were good
What you're stating resembles 1 dead cell, test elsewhere to be sure.
What should I be looking for? It’s a optimum yellow top dated 5/2017 so it tested good on the load test at Autozone and had 12.07 volts I believe. I also charged it overnight a few times and used jumper cables once, and tried a power pack starter. Even if it was the battery failing wouldn’t it at least attempt to turn over with one of these?
-Removed starter and had it tested it passed all tests
Was the solenoid tested as well? Since it’s all one piece I did not take it apart as Autozone wouldn’t know what to do with it. Advanced Auto couldn’t even figure out how to test it because the control side has a spade lug they had a alligator clip. They were idiots so I went elsewhere. They can only follow the instructions on there equipment.

No NATS issues light does not stay on.

jhc

If the battery is at 12.07 that sounds like it barely passes as you know. If it were mine I'd take jumper cable from + terminal directly to starter connection as mentioned above.

TKAMF

So I just wanted to update my thread with the fix Incase others have a similar situation.

So I tried the starter manually by going to the battery and I got nothing. I thought it was strange so I once again took the starter out and had it tested at yet another auto store. after watching three of them struggle to figure out how to even test it and hearing them pop the breaker to the equipment I walked back to investigate only to see them completely hooking up the starter wrong. Now I’ve never used this equipment so I’m no expert but they had the neg on one terminal and the pos to the solenoid terminal and the control line. So needless to say it didn’t pass until I told the three employees that’s not a negative terminal just use the outside casing. However I was concerned it may have been damaged. It passed all the tests this time three times and it engaged flawlessly although it sounded a bit weak. I decided to buy a new starter and press for a small discount.

sure enough once I installed the starter it cranked on the first try. So even if your starter passes all these auto store tests use your hearing to listen to how it sounds. I figured if it passed those tests it would at least crank over but that’s not the case.

just wanted to follow up.

jhc

Glad it worked out!

mrs3rdgen

So, all of these things have been replaced. Including starter, could new starter be bad? Just looking for suggestions 🤣

travlee

iTrader: (8)

They havent logged in just shy of 4 years.....hold your breath until they respond