VO...

iTrader: (25)

+1 on reset procedure. Take fancy door panel off. Close door. Roll window all the way up, even it goes down half way on it's own. Use the butt end of a screw driver to push in the rest button. They are stiff and you probably won't be able to do it with your finger. While depressing it, roll the window all the way down. Don't use the auto-down feature from the door switch either. This is the reset procedure in a nut shell...

bjr

Interesting problem. Maybe the timing gears inside are stripped or the case is falling apart?
I had one motor that acted strange and did random things after it had been in the car for a few months and when I went to check it out the case had popped open!
The smart part of the system is made out of tiny plastic gears to track how far the window has moved then triggers the limit switch. They are right under the front cover and the reset button is right on top of one of them. Personally I always figured the button was an electrical button but it is not. Somehow the reset button must disengage the gear set or effects them somehow so that all of the timing of the gears match up with the window being up. Maybe yours is mechanically worn, stuck, stripped, etc. Definately sounds like time for a new one unless something in your door is pushing on the reset button or it didn't pop back out all the way. The rubber cover gets crooked sometimes. Think there is a white plastic button under the black rubber cover.

saywat?

fyi anyone ever looked behind the reset button and why it doesn't feel like a button when pressed? that's because its not a button. u can remove the nub. its like a grommet. behind is a spinning disc that the rubber button keeps from spinning when pressed. I thought it was funny.

j3tt2

Just replace the brushes..... I did that 6 months ago and mine hasn't messed up at all. There is a thread by binder that does a step by step with pics and it's easy. A soldering iron($12 at Walmart) and some rc car electrical brushes(a pack of 6 for like $15 online) and just rebuild it yourself

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Interesting...

bmyles

I really wish this thread were stickied: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-be-fixed.html

It is hands down the best way to rid yourself of these window motor problems forever, just takes a little time.

j3tt2

Yeah this was the threa I was talking about by binder. You can even pm the guy and he will help you out. He's a cool dude

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

Well, just so all of you know. The source of my problem is in my wiring harness. For some odd reason if its too cold or just doesnt want to work, all I need to do is bend the wiring harness to the switchboard around and then it'll work. Kinda odd, but it is what it is.

jhc

Same problem, 06 pass side.
Searched "Windows/Repair", followed sticky. Cleaned motor w/CRC Electronics cleaner, works like new. 8 months. When it quits, I'll change it.
Btw, make sure your driver side lock-out isn't pressed...my wife was sure she killed that same window. Haha
glwr

saywat?

now i know why the 3 short screws were so damn tight from the factory. becus if u dont do it tight enough it will loosen over time and cause the motor to move when its active then u gotta go back in there again lol. or u can use loctite

JRSport018

iTrader: (4)

I'm having the EXACT same problem as your first post. Drivers side won't work at all, passenger side will go down but when I click up, the whole dash blinks and clicks.. So you just bent the wires that go into the arm rest around till it worked again?

Z_on_TE37's

iTrader: (3)

Yeah dude, its the weirdest thing. I just bend the wires and wahhlaaa it works. I'm probably going to buy the new wiring harness, but its like 150$ !