logan09

iTrader: (1)

I have decided it's probably a good idea to replace my front right wheel bearing due to hitting a curb a couple months back on ice. It has a weird vibration that resonates through the floor and is intermittent so I havn't drove it much lately.

Anyways I came across this "centric standard wheel bearing/hub assembly"
$105.00.
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...5173.29.184.11

The OEM Nissan replacement is 169.00, a little bit more. Does anyone have an opinion on those centric standards or possibly used them? I may spend the extra for piece of mind unless people can tell me that the centrics are perfectly fine. I know there is also a Timken replacement, but it's still more than the 105.00. Money isn't an issue at all but if it saves me some money it allows me to put that money saved towards other things.

samsniss350z

If money isn't an issue then i'd go right ahead and buy the bearing that was designed to do the job by Nissan. Unless somebody says otherwise what is $45 for peace of mind?

ericjackson

iTrader: (2)

i think z1motorsports sells the assembly for a little cheaper. a little over 150 from what i remember. I would just get them together and try and stick with OEM

logan09

iTrader: (1)

Think thats what I'll do, thanks

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I would just get Timken bearings or OEM

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

+1 on timken or OEM. In my field I have seen a ton of cheap wheel bearings come back in less then 10k miles with noise issues

ericjackson

iTrader: (2)

i recently went with timken bearing and not having any issues. however, to get the hub too it came out more expensive than buying straight from the dealer. then you still have to press it in. i wonder if the z1 assembly comes pre-pressed

bmyles

The complete Timken assembly is $120 from Rock Auto.

@eric, nothing has to be pressed in for the fronts. Not sure what you mean?

ericjackson

iTrader: (2)

true. ive only had to do rears on my z. Didnt read the part about it being his front bearing

bmyles

The rears definitely look to be a much bigger pain. I was considering a DIY experiment with those. If you put the bearing and the hub in the freezer overnight, I wonder if they would contract enough to push the bearing onto the hub with some light taps of a rubber mallet. Lots of people have presses at home, but I remember for the SPL diff bushing, you can freeze it overnight and it can be tapped in with a hammer.

Watkins

iTrader: (1)

I replaced all four a short while ago. I used Timken and have had no problems at all with them. Replacing the rears wasn't as hard as it was aggravating; I followed a how-to along with the FSM and I didn't have to resort to anything else to remove them.

DIY-Rear Wheel Bearing Removal

mattleegee

+1 on Timken, i did all four corners when had a small noise @ 80,000

drvqz33

iTrader: (10)

I replaced all 4 at 90K with MOOG assemblies. Runs so much better. No complaints yet.

I made a thread a while back with pics and part numbers. Hope this helps others!
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...omp-noise.html

freddys 350z

i though mine were good. then i found out how easy it is to spin the front wheel buy hand on my brothers 370z. my bearing got no play or noise but they have a lot of resistance compared to the new 370z. should i replace mine?

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

I've been running a timken front asswmbly for 2 years (20k miles). No issues