You can see if they're bent on the bottom tho can't you?
So I pull the motor, remove the heads, then how do I go about pulling the pistons out to get to the rods?
**** the crank would need to be replaced too

 

+1 on this. no one but me works on my car.

 

pull the motor out, not worth the trouble to try to even do all that with the motor in.

to pull out the pistons..remove connection rod caps, push piston up( assuming you have the heads off.) and repeat 5 more times. (do you know how hard it will to be to install the bearings and crank from the bottom?) if its even possible.

 

+1, it would be great if the rods would just drop out the bottom. Best thing to do is get a used engine off craigslist and swap it in, keep this messed up engine as a project. You said something about car being worth more if the original engine is in it, If you rebuild it yourself, car prolly wont be worth anything. No one wants a car that has a rebuilt engine from a mechanic that hasn't ever seen the inside of one.

 

LOL 14 Nismo, LS3 swap, and a g37 all in the same month? good luck.

 

Sorry i misread your original post. Your crank is probably hammered as well. I think it would almost cost more to have it machined and re-balanced. Here is what mine looked like after i spun a rod bearing. yeah and the pistons HAVE to come out of the top. so removing the heads is necessary. There are parts of the block that prevent them from coming out of the bottom. and i dont know if you can pull the rod off the piston head without pulling it all out.

 

also, i would say the rods are not fairly easy to replace. in fact, i would say it is the hardest thing to replace on the vq. also then you have to worry about all the metal that probably went through the block, honing cyl walls, new bearings, possibly new rings and labor to do all this. if i hadnt done it myself, i would have been better off buying a used block. cause i still almost didnt break even.

 

I am pulling the motor out, on sunday
Not tryna remove it from the bottom, I'm going to check for shavings in the oil pan and since I'm there I might aswell look in to see if I can see any bends
Also thanks for the tips
Well yeah but you see.... If I rebuild it myself, no one will know it's been rebuilt. If I swap the engine and they check the vins, price automatically drops in value
Plus I have no plans for this engine if I buy a new one and keep it. I'm not planning on going FI so no point in saving up to get forged internals. Doubt a blown engine is even worth anything if I try to sell it, so i'll just be stuck with a blown engine.
Either way, nothing is final yet I'm just bouncing ideas on this forum because it gives me headaches when I think about it to myself. Most likely what would happen is I remove the engine, open it up, learn how it works more hands on, sell the shell of the car and part out the engine. But who knows yet haha

Apparently you dislike reading.. But hey, I'm a nice guy I'll repeat it for you.
My original plan was to get a g37 and do an ls3 swap on my Z. My Z blew too early, so that plan went to ****. My new plan is ditch the 350z and buy a '14 Nismo.
I don't know how much more I can break that down and simplify it for you guys.
At first he told me it can be accessed from the bottom, but after looking at pictures and researching how these engines are designed I realized I wouldn't be able to access it from the bottom and I would be pulling the engine. Which is why there is two posts that differ from each other. One could say I'm learning
And to me nothing looks wrong with that crank.... Could you please elaborate as to what's wrong with it?

Thanks for the motivation
How can you go about flushing the metal out that went through the block? (If any at all did)

Any and all helpful tips are appreciated Also if you have a serious idea of what project to do with the car post em, I'll consider it. I mean it's just sitting there, I have nothing to lose lol

 

if my calculations are correct... thats about 3124HP?

 

this is the best pic i could find. the journals should be very smooth. The blue arrows are the undamaged journals, the red marks the one with the spun bearing. If you were to machine the journals, you would have to get someone who knows exactly what they are doing because you will need to measure for larger bearings as well and these things need to be measured to like the thousands of an inch.


as for the metal in the engine, this is what my engine looked like for the rebuild.... Plenty of places to clean. hah.


and once you get the block apart, you can clean it as well. just remember to flush and blow out the oil galleries and might as well do the coolant passages as well. this is what it looks like.



all that being said, if you chose to do this yourself for the first time. It WILL BE very time consuming and you will probably make a few mistakes along the way. Just pray you find them before starting it up for the first time. I cant tell you how many times i had to pull the front timing cover off after i got the engine back in the car to do something i forgot.

 

That clarified so much, thank you sir
I've got my bike as a DD and it's summer, so I don't have to worry about how long it'll take to fix this baby. Just as long as it's finished by Feb of '14 I'm good. I'll be sure to post a ton of pictures on Sunday and if you can help out any way possible by looking at the pictures I'll appreciate it greatly

 

my crank was toast, my block was toast. luckily i had a spare block w/ low miles that I bought new bearings and rings for among other things. If you dont have a spare block, you may find out you just need to buy a used engine that works already.

 

I don't want to buy a new block tho, that's the problem lol
If I cant fix this one, I'm just going to sell everything but the engine

 

you always have the option of boring out the cyl and buying larger pistons. youll probly still need a crank however.

 

fixed lol

On a side note OP if you were boosted with a stock block with over 100k on the motor.. IMO it would be only a matter a time till you had a failure, especially without a good tune. From what I've read on this forum, 8psi seems to be the max safe level you can run boost on these stock DE's. (please correct if wrong veterans)

Anyway I'd just buy a short block and build it for serious boost if I was you. Save all your mod parts for a motor that's capable of maximizing their potential. Wont be cheap but race cars never are.

BTW If you have enough money to get a 2014 nismo Z next feb, why not just get a older GTR?

Good luck bro, I've been in your shoes before.

 

I was thinking this as well, but how expansive is the engine boring and larger cylinders? I'm not looking into spending anymore into this car than necessary. Once it's in running condition it's still gonna sit there until I find a buyer.
I was never boosted, I had full bolt-on's and a tune. Never went FI, never planned it.
If the car would've lasted just 5-6 more months, I would've bought a short block and built it. But as it died on my now, my plans died with it.

Because a 09 used GTR with ~50k miles is $60,000 and a 2014 nismo with 0 miles would be $45,000 + with a 0-60 in 3 seconds I'd kill myself and on top of that, my bike hits 60 that fast and it's a 10th of the price. So my speed on cars is dead, my Nismo will be bone Stock in pristine condition. If I have a need for a speed adrenaline boost I'd just jump on my bike

 

Strange.. if you weren't boosted IDK why your motor would fail like that unless something was missed during maintenance.

GL

 

haha i love this^^^

 

Hey guys, my progress so far. First day I didnt do much on removing it, just removed plenum, alternator and belts before I ran out of time. Today was my next day off to work on it, got a lot more out. All I need to remove now is the wiring harness, a few more hoses, driveshaft, unmount and the engine is ready to be pulled out.



However, for the removal of the wiring harness.. I'm stuck here. How does this part get removed? I only took a quick look at it, then moved on to remove everything else before getting stuck on one object.



Are there clips on the bottom? Or how exactly is this piece removed to disconnect the harness