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Broken area around the oil pressure sensor! Help!!!

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Broken area around the oil pressure sensor! Help!!!

Old 09-18-2014, 05:55 PM
  #41  
TCooke
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I have not. I'll definitely check into the FSM. Hope that's the case that it's just something I missed. Haha
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:41 PM
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I can't seem to find it in the FSM. I downloaded a pdf version of it.
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Old 09-22-2014, 05:30 PM
  #43  
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I haven't done one on a VQ35 but on the older VQ I did, the QR and all the Ecotecs, the sealant they use is far stronger than silicone and it really holds the upper pan on there, usually there is a spot to put a pry bar and persuade it off, just be gentle. They sometimes pop free pretty forcefully.
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Old 12-23-2018, 09:10 AM
  #44  
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Default Oil pressure sensor housing cracked

I have the same problem not as bad. I didnít tork the sensor down that hard but being as the the oil pan is made of aluminum thatís why this is a common problem. If I was in his boat I would just replace the upper oil pan sucks ba*** but you donít want anything to happen while your on the road. I have a question as well? Should I get this welded or? Replace the upper oil pan?

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Old 01-01-2019, 01:30 PM
  #45  
Bernardo Z33
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Originally Posted by Oliver_350z View Post
I have the same problem not as bad. I didnít tork the sensor down that hard but being as the the oil pan is made of aluminum thatís why this is a common problem. If I was in his boat I would just replace the upper oil pan sucks ba*** but you donít want anything to happen while your on the road. I have a question as well? Should I get this welded or? Replace the upper oil pan?

man again. Youíve replied on more than one thing the same thing over and over again. You CAN NOT weld a casting. JB weld wonít work either. There is 90PSI going through there. Pay the money and replace the upper pan or do it yourself but I wish you luck if you do
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Old 01-01-2019, 06:32 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Bernardo Z33 View Post

man again. Youíve replied on more than one thing the same thing over and over again. You CAN NOT weld a casting. JB weld wonít work either. There is 90PSI going through there. Pay the money and replace the upper pan or do it yourself but I wish you luck if you do
You 'could' weld that - I wouldnt recommend it and it'd have to come off the car. I've welded a few things onto OEM cast aluminum but like any welding you must clean and prep it after you clean and prep it before you clean and prep it.

Welding onto any used OEM cast aluminum pulls the contaminates out and makes it difficult to run a good bead.

OP - I have a few extra upper oil pans and I'd be more than happy to sell a replacement at far below new or used prices - shoot me a PM and we can chat about it.

This is a 1/2" (AN -8) coolant return line I did for the upcoming turbo ... not great technique, getting my torch where it needed to be was challenging and I didnt have much aluminum to work with on the pipe.

This is my 1/4" (AN -4) for the coolant pressure sensor thats tied into the Link




This is my 3/4" (AN -12) fitting that will connect my feed line. It was a straight-up mess to run a bead and not get into contaminants. I wire wheel'd the surface, cleaned with brake cleaner, cleaned it with the torch set on it's highest cleaning setting and then re-wire wheeled and cleaned with brake cleaner. Portions of it welded fine and others were a train-wreck. Upset, I ground-off my welds and re-did it ... looks better and roughly acceptable...









And, just to show the OP it can be done ... one can put a weld on the stock around the oil pressure sensor...







Last edited by bealljk; 01-03-2019 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:38 AM
  #47  
gerryserrano
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Originally Posted by bealljk View Post


You 'could' weld that - I wouldnt recommend it and it'd have to come off the car. I've welded a few things onto OEM cast aluminum but like any welding you must clean and prep it after you clean and prep it before you clean and prep it.

Welding onto any used OEM cast aluminum pulls the contaminates out and makes it difficult to run a good bead.

OP - I have a few extra upper oil pans and I'd be more than happy to sell a replacement at far below new or used prices - shoot me a PM and we can chat about it.

This is a 1/2" (AN -8) coolant return line I did for the upcoming turbo ... not great technique, getting my torch where it needed to be was challenging and I didnt have much aluminum to work with on the pipe.

This is my 1/4" (AN -4) for the coolant pressure sensor thats tied into the Link




This is my 3/4" (AN -12) fitting that will connect my feed line. It was a straight-up mess to run a bead and not get into contaminants. I wire wheel'd the surface, cleaned with brake cleaner, cleaned it with the torch set on it's highest cleaning setting and then re-wire wheeled and cleaned with brake cleaner. Portions of it welded fine and others were a train-wreck. Upset, I ground-off my welds and re-did it ... looks better and roughly acceptable...









And, just to show the OP it can be done ... one can put a weld on the stock around the oil pressure sensor...






Quick question. How did you do the weld. Tig? I'm no welder, but knowing you did it and how (Tools, process, etc) would really help a novice like myself know if it's realistic.

Gerry
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