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Bad Window Relay-to-Motor Wiring?

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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 12:38 PM
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From: Full lock at high RPM
Unhappy Bad Window Relay-to-Motor Wiring?

Edit: problem solved!

Please help! I've searched and I haven't found anyone with a problem like this. I recently had trouble with the passenger window motor in my 2003 Z. At some points it would roll up or down slowly, then return to normal speed. One night I put the window down and could not get it to come back up. About a week later it suddenly started working again, still having the occasional slow spots. Thinking the motor was bad, I replaced it with a refurbished motor. Afterwards it would move fine with both window switches, but still had 3 problems:

1. The door would not open using the interior door handle.
2. If you repeatedly opened and closed the door, each time it would roll down a small amount as if it was rolling down for opening the door. Basically it would go down inch by inch. After any of these door-opening roll-downs, it would not roll up at all until it had been rolled down some.
3. The auto-up did not function.

In order to fix the interior door handle, I rolled down the window to begin disassembling the door. It would not roll up after that. I disassembled the door and reattached the door-release cable to the interior door handle, so the interior door handle works. For some reason, I cannot get any response from the window motor now. All I get is the relay click and no motion, using either switch for the passenger window. I've disassembled the door again and checked all electrical connectors, and I've attached a different passenger door switch panel (from a perfectly working door) and it makes no difference.

What can I do from here? I don't believe my window motor has gone bad again. I think maybe the wiring between the relay and the motor has gone bad. My next planned step is to get a multi-meter and probe each wire to see if I get a signal to the motor when the relay clicks. Does anyone have a pinout of the wide white connector that plugs into the switch panel, or a pinout of the white window motor connector? I've searched for them and haven't found them. Thanks for reading.

Last edited by 1973camarolt; Sep 13, 2013 at 12:44 PM. Reason: Motor replaced, problem solved!
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:08 PM
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From experience I'm almost certain the refurbished motor went out. If you get the relay click and nothing happens it's for sure the motor. I'd say get a factory motor and go from there.

A new one from the factory comes with a standard 1 year or 12K miles whichever comes first.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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Would a refurbished motor go out in less than a day? I'm steadily reading other threads and they agree with what you're suggesting. Man this is aggravating.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 02:16 PM
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Yes I've seen the refurbished ones not work at all once connected. You'll be better off just going with the OEM factory.

Check out West Covina Nissan's EBay store, if I'm not mistaken they always had the cheapest price on the factory ones. You shouldn't have a problem with the factory one. Costs a bit more, but worth the piece of mind.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the info 1sick. Today I called Summit and they're sending a different refurbished motor, but if that doesn't fix it I'll definitely go through West Covina. I read through every window thread in the first 50 pages of the Maintenance & Repair forum and I completely agree with you.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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Do the initialization procedure to address that one inch rolling down and not back up issue. You have to be in the car with the door closed (door panel still removed) so you can press the little button on the motor unit while rolling it down and up.

I don't remember the exact sequence but if you install a new motor without doing it the car will not be able to learn the auto up/down functions and the auto-drop for door opening will do exactly what you had happening.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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I installed my new motor just a little while ago and it does all the window functions perfectly without me needing to do the reset procedure? I've heard of other people experiencing the same thing, but I never thought it'd happen to me. I got lucky. It even does the 10mm roll down for opening the door, which my old passenger motor wouldn't do, and my driver's motor doesn't do. I think I'll open up the driver's door and do the reset procedure on that this weekend. My problem is solved.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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Awesome!

For me, I've only done it on a customers car and I needed to do the reset but I took everything out, new motor and regulator. Maybe that had something to do with it.
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