I searched.

I have an 04 350z going on 110k miles. I believe it has the stock clutch. Its pretty stiff, and grabs only when you let it up nearly 95% of the way. I can pull fifth gear out with ease without using the clutch at 30 mph. I suspect it needs replaced, surely this is not normal? I'm eyeing the JWT combo seen here I'm curious how difficult this clutch is to drive with for the females not used to anything stiff ( in the car ). I'm also curious as to the break in period for the jwt clutch.


Thanks!

 

Try one of these, and all will be better:

http://www.rjmperformance.com/350z--...edal-kits.html

From your description it doesn't sound like there's anything wrong with your clutch, other than Nissan's poorly-designed clutch pedal system. The RJM kit will offer the same benefits with an aftermarket clutch, too.

 

A new stock clutch should be very woman friendly. Make sure you get a new fork pivot ball too.

 

So really, I dont need a new clutch at the moment? Its meant to catch very late?

 

Sorry, but I'll have to disagree. Why would a new clutch be much different than what the OP describes? My '08's clutch felt the same brand new as it did with 45K miles on it Which is to say it engaged near the top, required way too much effort, and basically worked like an on/off switch. I've been driving MT cars for 40 years, and the Z is about the worst I've ever had.

On the other side of the coin, the RJM kit allows fine adjustment of force and travel required of the pedal, and it widens the engagement window, making use of the clutch far easier and more user-friendly. It transformed the car. Read the review thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...l-bracket.html

 

If your clutch isn't slipping, you don't need a new one. As for the high engagement point, that's a "feature", or a design flaw, depending on who you ask.

 

I should mention I only need to depress the pedal about 5% to be able to shift fully. I always go to the floor, but its quite possible to barely push on the and shift just fine. This is also a feature?

 

Yours might need a slight adjustment, which is possible with the OEM setup to some extent, but that still doesn't fix the on/off aspect of the engagement. or change the effort required. There really isn't any need to push the pedal any farther than necessary, so pushing it to the floor is wasted motion. I actually just got used to a quick poke of my pedal, before the RJM mod.

 

I'm just worried that what I'm describing are symptoms of a clutch failure and one day soon (in the next 90 days) it will no longer catch at all. But if you guys believe this is normal I can relax. I don't particularly want to purchase a clutch at the moment.

 

Hard to say. If you've had the car for a long time, and it's gradualy changed over that time, then clutch wear could certainly be part of what you're feeling. If the car is relatively new to you, your guess is as good as mine, but you can't really compare the feel of the OEM Z clutch setup to most other cars.

 

Ditto on these sentiments.

The clutch is about the only thing I DON'T love on my 08 Nismo.

 

I changed out my clutch this past summer with an exedy OEM replacement, the engagement point by the second week (once everything had broken in) was right back at the top 90% or so. so that's normal. I tried teaching my wife to drive mine with the old clutch but with the new one i'm sending her to a few classes before she tries in my car again...

The clutch will start slipping in the lower gears first.. I replaced mine when it started to slip in 4th with moderate acceleration... and that was after being babied for two months after it started slipping after a drive through the mountains after 60k miles... I had only about 1mm left before the rivets would have dug into the flywheel.

 

You can disagree all you want, but my stock '03 clutch worked just fine for my wife when she attempted to learn standard with her flip flops on. Needless to say, she doesn't drive my car, but it doesn't take a lot of effort or skill to use the clutch on mine. I did have to lubricate the fork pivot ball though, since they're known for drying out and breaking if left unattended. The clutch should dis-engage at about 1/4 pedal or less on any car with a hydraulic clutch.

Troopin, you should try to bleed the system and lube the pivot ball, it may help.

 

110K miles is a good lifespan on a clutch. Try going from a stop at a bottom of a steep hill and engage the clutch normally. Are you slipping? Do you smell a burning clutch? If not, then definitely try the friction (engagement) point pedal adjustment and see of that does the trick. There are a hundred threads on which clutch is the best, and you'll never get the same answer. Look for a MY350Z seller with a good reputation, give them a call and explain what you need. They'll point you in the right direction.

For what it's worth, I've had clutches go bad at 35,000 miles and at 140,000 miles. I've only driven manual in my 30 years as a driver. I only have 26,000 miles on my 2008 350Z and want to change the clutch out NOW because the OEM 2007+ clutch and hydraulic system is terrible.

 

It's really that poorly-designed pedal/pivot system more than anything else, at least with regards to the high engagement point and on/off aspect of the engagement. The CSC is certainly another weak point in the design, and it will fail and need replacement eventually, but when it fails you'll know, and there is a very good aftermarket replacement available. Read about the RJM pedal/pivot kit, and see what you think. It's solved the problem for lots pf Z owners, and at <$250 it's a steal.

 

I'm intrigued, and interested.

Do you have one of these?

Says it works with stock clutch, etc - is that what you are using it with?

And if u do, how difficult was install? I'm good with stereo installs, but as far as the mechanical I'm not much more than an oil/plug/filters DIY kinda guy

How much do you think a typical shop would charge to install? and is everything included basically plug-n-play?

Thanks!

 

I do have one, and wouldn't ever take it off the car. You can download the install instructions from the RJM site. Took me a little over an hour, not rushing, and I'm experienced and have good tools (although you only need a few sockets and open-end wrenches). My clutch is OEM, and at 55K miles my OEM CSC still works well, too (fingers crossed).

 

Oh, I know ALL about the problem and the solutions. All I need now is the cash and a weekend to install everything. It's low on my priority list because I just did my brakes and bought a new Snap-on box for a Christmas gift to myself. I'm thinking I'll tackle the clutch next year.

 

Cool, I'll spend some time looking at those links you put up.

Kinda stupid sounding question now: I have had 2 Toyotas that I LOVED the clutch in, a Celica GT, and an MR2 Turbo, and I've driven a Supra that felt similiar. Have you driven a Toyota sports car? does your clutch feel more like that now with the RJM? also test driven a Miata and an S2000 before, and liked the clutch feel in those cars also - comparison?

 

Interesting discussion…

Actually I really like the 350z’s stock clutch (I drive a 2003 Performance model). The stock clutch feels like those on high-end performance cars. It grabs quickly and has little travel at the strong and short engagement point.

That might prove challenging for a driver new to a manual transmission, but the driver should easily master this after a short learning curve.

--Spike