Is my Z going to make it?
07-11-2015, 10:01 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Is my Z going to make it?
Hate to have my first post about how I'm scared to drive my daily driver. I bought My 2003 350z with 150,000 miles and a few hours later, white smoke from the exhaust only on startup and not much. A few days later, check engine light for misfire in cylinder 3. Idle is usually only about 750 rpm, 1250 when the engine is cold. Coolant and oil are practically vanishing at a slow but frequent enough to concern rate. coolant drops an inch a week oil drops two quarts one week, none the next, and a quart the week after. Currently the smoke is whenever the engine feels like scaring my wallet, time, and modest mechanical skill. If I'm idling, small amounts about 1/6 the time, on startup moderate amounts 1/4 the time.If the engine is warm and I take off from a stop light at any speed unless I redline first and act like Ireally do want to race that minivan next to me, it doesnt smoke at all, or it does smoke. My engine does what it wants.
I have no visible leaks from under the car, even with the plastic thing underneath taken off, zero visible power loss (although I can't compare this, all I know is it feels as fast as a stock 350z should be) no milky oil or coolant, perfect oil pressure, acceptable engine temps, and no sweet smells from the exhaust although it occasionally smells like burning oil but with white smoke.
In the month I've had it I swapped the starter, battery, spark plugs, boots and springs, oil and filter (had to refill the oil and stopped using Royal Purple after I realized it wasn't lasting and switched to penzoil non-synthetic) pcv valve, wheel bearings, cai filter, and cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body.
I just wanted to worry about race car, someone please enlighten me on why my car is falling apart. Other than the obvious fact that I shouldn't have bought a car with that many miles
I have no visible leaks from under the car, even with the plastic thing underneath taken off, zero visible power loss (although I can't compare this, all I know is it feels as fast as a stock 350z should be) no milky oil or coolant, perfect oil pressure, acceptable engine temps, and no sweet smells from the exhaust although it occasionally smells like burning oil but with white smoke.
In the month I've had it I swapped the starter, battery, spark plugs, boots and springs, oil and filter (had to refill the oil and stopped using Royal Purple after I realized it wasn't lasting and switched to penzoil non-synthetic) pcv valve, wheel bearings, cai filter, and cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body.
I just wanted to worry about race car, someone please enlighten me on why my car is falling apart. Other than the obvious fact that I shouldn't have bought a car with that many miles
Last edited by allmycarsdie; 07-11-2015 at 10:17 PM. Reason: More details
07-11-2015, 10:34 PM
#2
Registered User
have you experienced a misfiring cylinder? As in like a loud scary noise that sounds like your block farting from the front at high speed? If not and your getting that code wtf!
Two quarts in two weeks is a whole lot. If it's white smoke, the car may be burning antifreeze or (quite rare) auto-trans fluid
Bad Piston Rings
Bad PCV
Valve Guide Seals
stop the burn! I dunno man get it to a reputable shop. Your motor isnt well. here is some info i found on the net.
If you see smoke as you are decelerating, this too is a possible sign of valve seals and/or valve guides. This is because as you decelerate, there is a large vacuum build up within the intake tract. There is enough vacuum to pull oil past the valve seal if it's worn. COST TO FIX: Same as above.
If you see smoke while accelerating, this is a sign your oil control rings are worn. These are the bottom rings used in the ring pack. When they are worn (or the cylinders are worn past tolerance), oil can flow past the rings as the piston travels down the cylinder. The oil control rings normally will scrape the cylinder of the oil, pushing it back down into the crank case. COST TO FIX: There fix is quite expensive, as it requires a complete engine rebuild to fix.
You may want to consider having to rebuild or swap out. Good luck. I just had a misfire adventure this morning btw. Only 35k on mine. P.S.
Inspect the spark plugs. Pull the spark plug wires off one spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug. Examine the spark plug. An oily, wet or sooty spark plug terminal is a sign of oil burning. Replace the spark plug and wire. Repeat for each spark plug, working on one spark plug at a time. make sure to have the torque specifications for your plugs.
Two quarts in two weeks is a whole lot. If it's white smoke, the car may be burning antifreeze or (quite rare) auto-trans fluid
Bad Piston Rings
Bad PCV
Valve Guide Seals
stop the burn! I dunno man get it to a reputable shop. Your motor isnt well. here is some info i found on the net.
If you see smoke as you are decelerating, this too is a possible sign of valve seals and/or valve guides. This is because as you decelerate, there is a large vacuum build up within the intake tract. There is enough vacuum to pull oil past the valve seal if it's worn. COST TO FIX: Same as above.
If you see smoke while accelerating, this is a sign your oil control rings are worn. These are the bottom rings used in the ring pack. When they are worn (or the cylinders are worn past tolerance), oil can flow past the rings as the piston travels down the cylinder. The oil control rings normally will scrape the cylinder of the oil, pushing it back down into the crank case. COST TO FIX: There fix is quite expensive, as it requires a complete engine rebuild to fix.
You may want to consider having to rebuild or swap out. Good luck. I just had a misfire adventure this morning btw. Only 35k on mine. P.S.
Inspect the spark plugs. Pull the spark plug wires off one spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug. Examine the spark plug. An oily, wet or sooty spark plug terminal is a sign of oil burning. Replace the spark plug and wire. Repeat for each spark plug, working on one spark plug at a time. make sure to have the torque specifications for your plugs.
Last edited by HORACE; 07-11-2015 at 10:48 PM.
07-12-2015, 08:15 AM
#4
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Welcome allmycarsdie- I hope your nom-de-plume doesn't represent some sort of self-fulfilling prophesy for your Z. It certainly sounds like you're either burning oil or coolant in some fashion. I'd suggest you have a used oil analysis (with comments) done as well as a compression and leak down test. Combined, you should get a better idea of the overall condition of your VQ.
BTW- the VQ is a strong and elegant powerplant. It'll last far beyond 150K with the right maintenance. Did you get any service records with the car when you purchased it? If not, and if you paid a low price, it may be that you deferred part of the purchase for later when you rebuild/replace the engine.
BTW- the VQ is a strong and elegant powerplant. It'll last far beyond 150K with the right maintenance. Did you get any service records with the car when you purchased it? If not, and if you paid a low price, it may be that you deferred part of the purchase for later when you rebuild/replace the engine.
07-12-2015, 08:39 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Welcome allmycarsdie- I hope your nom-de-plume doesn't represent some sort of self-fulfilling prophesy for your Z. It certainly sounds like you're either burning oil or coolant in some fashion. I'd suggest you have a used oil analysis (with comments) done as well as a compression and leak down test. Combined, you should get a better idea of the overall condition of your VQ.
BTW- the VQ is a strong and elegant powerplant. It'll last far beyond 150K with the right maintenance. Did you get any service records with the car when you purchased it? If not, and if you paid a low price, it may be that you deferred part of the purchase for later when you rebuild/replace the engine.
BTW- the VQ is a strong and elegant powerplant. It'll last far beyond 150K with the right maintenance. Did you get any service records with the car when you purchased it? If not, and if you paid a low price, it may be that you deferred part of the purchase for later when you rebuild/replace the engine.
have you experienced a misfiring cylinder? As in like a loud scary noise that sounds like your block farting from the front at high speed? If not and your getting that code wtf!
Two quarts in two weeks is a whole lot. If it's white smoke, the car may be burning antifreeze or (quite rare) auto-trans fluid
Bad Piston Rings
Bad PCV
Valve Guide Seals
stop the burn! I dunno man get it to a reputable shop. Your motor isnt well. here is some info i found on the net.
If you see smoke as you are decelerating, this too is a possible sign of valve seals and/or valve guides. This is because as you decelerate, there is a large vacuum build up within the intake tract. There is enough vacuum to pull oil past the valve seal if it's worn. COST TO FIX: Same as above.
If you see smoke while accelerating, this is a sign your oil control rings are worn. These are the bottom rings used in the ring pack. When they are worn (or the cylinders are worn past tolerance), oil can flow past the rings as the piston travels down the cylinder. The oil control rings normally will scrape the cylinder of the oil, pushing it back down into the crank case. COST TO FIX: There fix is quite expensive, as it requires a complete engine rebuild to fix.
You may want to consider having to rebuild or swap out. Good luck. I just had a misfire adventure this morning btw. Only 35k on mine. P.S.
Inspect the spark plugs. Pull the spark plug wires off one spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug. Examine the spark plug. An oily, wet or sooty spark plug terminal is a sign of oil burning. Replace the spark plug and wire. Repeat for each spark plug, working on one spark plug at a time. make sure to have the torque specifications for your plugs.
Two quarts in two weeks is a whole lot. If it's white smoke, the car may be burning antifreeze or (quite rare) auto-trans fluid
Bad Piston Rings
Bad PCV
Valve Guide Seals
stop the burn! I dunno man get it to a reputable shop. Your motor isnt well. here is some info i found on the net.
If you see smoke as you are decelerating, this too is a possible sign of valve seals and/or valve guides. This is because as you decelerate, there is a large vacuum build up within the intake tract. There is enough vacuum to pull oil past the valve seal if it's worn. COST TO FIX: Same as above.
If you see smoke while accelerating, this is a sign your oil control rings are worn. These are the bottom rings used in the ring pack. When they are worn (or the cylinders are worn past tolerance), oil can flow past the rings as the piston travels down the cylinder. The oil control rings normally will scrape the cylinder of the oil, pushing it back down into the crank case. COST TO FIX: There fix is quite expensive, as it requires a complete engine rebuild to fix.
You may want to consider having to rebuild or swap out. Good luck. I just had a misfire adventure this morning btw. Only 35k on mine. P.S.
Inspect the spark plugs. Pull the spark plug wires off one spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug. Examine the spark plug. An oily, wet or sooty spark plug terminal is a sign of oil burning. Replace the spark plug and wire. Repeat for each spark plug, working on one spark plug at a time. make sure to have the torque specifications for your plugs.
The deceleration and acceleration is the thing, it smokes when it wants to. The only time it doesnt is if my speed is consistent. Thank you for the quick replies everyone.
Last edited by SR71; 07-12-2015 at 03:34 PM. Reason: Merged
07-12-2015, 08:58 AM
#6
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
It sounds like someone abused this motor pretty good - wouldnt be the first time.
Are you able to return this car to the dealership?
If not and you feel like learning alot and doing this work yourself you should see about pulling the engine and replacing it. If you don't have the means than look into a shop.
Do what DK said - your first step should be running a compression test on the cylinders - borrow a kit from an autoparts store or pick one up from harbor freight. Then run a leakdown test - You'll probably have to buy this kit but it's $40 from HF. This will give you a pretty good idea of where you're at. Drive on that oil a few days / as much as you can and then send a sample to Blackstone labs in Indiana - they are pretty good. I bet between those three test you'll know where youre at.
Are you able to return this car to the dealership?
If not and you feel like learning alot and doing this work yourself you should see about pulling the engine and replacing it. If you don't have the means than look into a shop.
Do what DK said - your first step should be running a compression test on the cylinders - borrow a kit from an autoparts store or pick one up from harbor freight. Then run a leakdown test - You'll probably have to buy this kit but it's $40 from HF. This will give you a pretty good idea of where you're at. Drive on that oil a few days / as much as you can and then send a sample to Blackstone labs in Indiana - they are pretty good. I bet between those three test you'll know where youre at.
07-12-2015, 10:49 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
It sounds like someone abused this motor pretty good - wouldnt be the first time.
Are you able to return this car to the dealership?
If not and you feel like learning alot and doing this work yourself you should see about pulling the engine and replacing it. If you don't have the means than look into a shop.
Do what DK said - your first step should be running a compression test on the cylinders - borrow a kit from an autoparts store or pick one up from harbor freight. Then run a leakdown test - You'll probably have to buy this kit but it's $40 from HF. This will give you a pretty good idea of where you're at. Drive on that oil a few days / as much as you can and then send a sample to Blackstone labs in Indiana - they are pretty good. I bet between those three test you'll know where youre at.
Are you able to return this car to the dealership?
If not and you feel like learning alot and doing this work yourself you should see about pulling the engine and replacing it. If you don't have the means than look into a shop.
Do what DK said - your first step should be running a compression test on the cylinders - borrow a kit from an autoparts store or pick one up from harbor freight. Then run a leakdown test - You'll probably have to buy this kit but it's $40 from HF. This will give you a pretty good idea of where you're at. Drive on that oil a few days / as much as you can and then send a sample to Blackstone labs in Indiana - they are pretty good. I bet between those three test you'll know where youre at.
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07-12-2015, 01:19 PM
#8
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
BTW- maybe you should change your mindset when it comes to cars. No need to give up on a car when there's a problem. Even with a lack of knowledge and background in automotive technology, you can start with the determination to save this car by educating yourself. Find the right technicians to work with and either rebuild or replace this component yourself or with the right help. We've all been where you're starting from.
07-12-2015, 09:29 PM
#9
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
BTW- maybe you should change your mindset when it comes to cars. No need to give up on a car when there's a problem. Even with a lack of knowledge and background in automotive technology, you can start with the determination to save this car by educating yourself. Find the right technicians to work with and either rebuild or replace this component yourself or with the right help. We've all been where you're starting from.
I pulled my block last fall for the first time and I hired a guy to help me. Learned quite a bit...I did most the work, most the research, most the reading, and made sure that we followed the factory service manual(FSM).
OP, if you decide to do the engine work yourself (which I'd suggest), I'd hire someone - pay them $20/hr to help and watch over YOU doing the work.
I learned a ton and I am completely familiar with my car - I don't know everything but I know alot now. It's 2015 and when I got the car back in 2006 I could change the oil and rotate the tires and that was about it.
If you need a few more tips on doing the work feel free to PM me and I'll type your ears off!
07-12-2015, 10:38 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
VQ stem seals are durable, but a lack of good maintenance and/or beating on an engine will degrade even the best components. Same for piston rings- heat and friction will eventually wear them down. You mentioned "intense buildup" on the electrode of plug #3, but failed to give any sort of detailed description. Electrodes should have a grey sooty look- what did that one look like?
BTW- maybe you should change your mindset when it comes to cars. No need to give up on a car when there's a problem. Even with a lack of knowledge and background in automotive technology, you can start with the determination to save this car by educating yourself. Find the right technicians to work with and either rebuild or replace this component yourself or with the right help. We've all been where you're starting from.
BTW- maybe you should change your mindset when it comes to cars. No need to give up on a car when there's a problem. Even with a lack of knowledge and background in automotive technology, you can start with the determination to save this car by educating yourself. Find the right technicians to work with and either rebuild or replace this component yourself or with the right help. We've all been where you're starting from.
I know any part of any engine can fail, I just wanted to know if the VQ was infamous for any specific part malfunctions as some engines are
07-12-2015, 10:42 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
yup...a positive outlook will help any situation...
I pulled my block last fall for the first time and I hired a guy to help me. Learned quite a bit...I did most the work, most the research, most the reading, and made sure that we followed the factory service manual(FSM).
OP, if you decide to do the engine work yourself (which I'd suggest), I'd hire someone - pay them $20/hr to help and watch over YOU doing the work.
I learned a ton and I am completely familiar with my car - I don't know everything but I know alot now. It's 2015 and when I got the car back in 2006 I could change the oil and rotate the tires and that was about it.
If you need a few more tips on doing the work feel free to PM me and I'll type your ears off!
I pulled my block last fall for the first time and I hired a guy to help me. Learned quite a bit...I did most the work, most the research, most the reading, and made sure that we followed the factory service manual(FSM).
OP, if you decide to do the engine work yourself (which I'd suggest), I'd hire someone - pay them $20/hr to help and watch over YOU doing the work.
I learned a ton and I am completely familiar with my car - I don't know everything but I know alot now. It's 2015 and when I got the car back in 2006 I could change the oil and rotate the tires and that was about it.
If you need a few more tips on doing the work feel free to PM me and I'll type your ears off!
07-13-2015, 10:10 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thats my bad, I had meant to upload a picture. Corroded one, the middle is how all the other plugs looked and then just as a base for comparison the new plugs.
Last edited by allmycarsdie; 07-13-2015 at 10:11 AM.
07-13-2015, 06:32 PM
#13
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
That photo helps, but is quite blurry. That fouled plug doesn't even look like an NGK and it seems like the markings on the insulator are different. Can you confirm it was an NGK plug?
07-13-2015, 08:09 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
It was a denso, kinda pissed me off when I pulled them out that the guy didn't even use halfway decent plugs. The new ones are NGK. MY check engine light is gone after an ECU reset and I'll see how much oil is burned after I replace all pcv hoses, old crappy air filter and flush coolant and oil. If it keeps on burning oil and coolant I guess I'll take it in to the shop
07-14-2015, 05:29 AM
#15
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
It was a denso, kinda pissed me off when I pulled them out that the guy didn't even use halfway decent plugs. The new ones are NGK. MY check engine light is gone after an ECU reset and I'll see how much oil is burned after I replace all pcv hoses, old crappy air filter and flush coolant and oil. If it keeps on burning oil and coolant I guess I'll take it in to the shop
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allmycarsdie (07-15-2015)
07-14-2015, 08:00 AM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
The Denso plugs used were basic plugs, not the double platinum the factory recommends. A beautiful Machine for someone to screw up like this, it's sad
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