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advice on p0430 catalyst efficiency error

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Old 08-21-2015, 02:21 PM
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Anthony Geluz
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Default advice on p0430 catalyst efficiency error

Hey guys

I have a 2005 350z performance coupe.
80,000 miles.
it's been great, no problems until now.

I have a obd logger that's just popped up with the p0430 code.
catalyst efficiency below range (bank 2)

I might be oversimplifying this, but from my reading it seems it might be the catalytic converter or the O2 sensor.

my buddy recommended I swap the sensor and see if it throws the code on the opposite bank that I switched the sensor to.

I don't have a jack or tools.

would a quick and dirty way to check the functionality of the converters be

to have a smog check done, and see what's really coming out of the pipes?

or would a bad sensor affect what the engine is doing and therefore the output?

last time I had a smog I noticed they plugged into my obd port, so i'm guessing that is to protect against some sort of temporary rigging to improve the actual exhaust readings?

Last edited by Anthony Geluz; 08-21-2015 at 02:42 PM. Reason: mileage
Old 08-21-2015, 02:27 PM
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zakmartin
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Ten bucks and my left nut your catalytic converter is toast. My car burned out two factory cats by the time I hit 22K miles. I think the factory cats are junk.

Now go to the introduce yourself thread and watch your post get moved to the correct forum.

Welcome to my350Z and may God have mercy on your soul.
Old 08-21-2015, 02:50 PM
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Anthony Geluz
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heya Zak. darn. not encouraging.
I don't see that thread. New owners?
my navigation is a bit awkward on this tablet i'm using.

I was reading so many posts related to this code, you posted on a thread with this problem. if i recall.
Old 08-21-2015, 03:02 PM
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zakmartin
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Hey Anthony -

Post your introductions here:

https://my350z.com/forum/new-owners-397/

Include info on your car, so that you can reference to that if you need help with maintenance issues.

Yeah, I've mentioned on a couple threads my issues with the cats. I got the code two times on my 2008, took it to the dealership and they said, "cat's dead" and replaced them under warranty. First one died at 15,000 miles, if I remember correctly. I don't abuse my car, I'm not having any issues running rich, no oil burn, no misfires, only run it on Chevron Premium, the 02 sensors are putting out correct trim readings and I've owned the car since it was 15 miles old. My only guess it that they made a bad batch of cats in 2007 (when my car was manufactured) because I've been told that cat failure is fairly common for the 2008 model year.

Fortunately, Nissan has an 8-year, 80,000 mile warranty on the cats. I have about half a year left on my warranty since my car was purchased in 2009, so... (knocking on wood everywhere right now.)

Last edited by zakmartin; 08-21-2015 at 03:04 PM.
Old 08-21-2015, 03:10 PM
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Anthony Geluz
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It's fascinating this whole world of 350z
I didn't buy the car to tune or go to race.
I do the regular maintenance, oil changes, highest grade fuel available at the gas station.
so far I love the car, I haven't had any issues.
it's got great power, awesome for pulling past obstacle drivers in LA.
If my only problem is the Cats I don't care.
not bad for 10 years 80k miles.
Old 08-21-2015, 04:00 PM
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MicVelo
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Originally Posted by Anthony Geluz
Hey guys

I have a 2005 350z performance coupe.
80,000 miles.
it's been great, no problems until now.

I have a obd logger that's just popped up with the p0430 code.
catalyst efficiency below range (bank 2)

I might be oversimplifying this, but from my reading it seems it might be the catalytic converter or the O2 sensor.

my buddy recommended I swap the sensor and see if it throws the code on the opposite bank that I switched the sensor to.

I don't have a jack or tools.

would a quick and dirty way to check the functionality of the converters be

to have a smog check done, and see what's really coming out of the pipes?

or would a bad sensor affect what the engine is doing and therefore the output?

last time I had a smog I noticed they plugged into my obd port, so i'm guessing that is to protect against some sort of temporary rigging to improve the actual exhaust readings?
First off, welcome to the forum.

On your issue, I'm with zakmartin on this one. The P0430 (and companion P0420, Bank 1 fault) are pretty common and highest probability based on Alldata and other sources indicate a bad catalyst on the left hand cat.)

You can do one of two things (not both):

1. NOT SO RECOMMENDED: Throw parts at it based on assumptions and hope for the best. Change the catalysts AND the O2 sensors (because an old/dead 02 sensor may have been the root cause of the cat failure to begin with.)

But it may not be or have been the problem.... read on....

2. RECOMMENDED - Take it to a shop that can diagnose more accurately if the catalyst is plugged. And if so, can also do a full engine systems diag to pinpoint the root cause.

There is the old "home garage theory" (read: "free" but for the temp guage) of testing it by measuring temperature in/out and looking at the differential.... old wive's tales says if the exhaust side is 200 degF higher than inlet, the converter is toast.

DO NOT RELY ON THIS.
While it's an indicator that the engine is running rich (resulting in excessive CO), it tells nothing about the root cause. This condition could be caused by any number of things... bad crankcase ventilation, ECU misinterpretation - which could be triggered by a bad O2 sensor, etc.

So bottom line, take it to the people who can diagnose it properly and offer you a solution, especially since you have no jack nor tools.

Yes, it's more expensive but....

The shop's diagnosis and subsequent repair is "warranty-able"; that is, if they misdiagnose, they really can't charge you for additional repairs. And looking at it from the shop perspective.... they cannot afford to make those mistakes.

This was the long way of saying, "Take it to a good shop who knows what they're doing."

Seems like common sense but there's so many people who, for one reason or another, refuse to accept the fact that there are things that should be done by pros with professional equipment (or competent home mechs with the proper diagnostic equipment) so that you only have to fix it ONCE. Emissions systems - especially for us in CA - is one of them.

I take the long term view.....get it done once correctly and forget about it.

My devalued $.02. I await the flames....

Mic
Old 08-21-2015, 04:24 PM
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Anthony Geluz
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I appreciate the advice Mic,

that's my strategy so far. i've found a shop that specializes in nissan/infiniti
http://www.precisionz.com/
I hope they're legit. *crosses fingers*

I was just curious if my caveman logic idea of the smog would work if an assumption of a bad o2 sensor were correct.

I see what you mean about the symptom and problem. best to know why it failed or I might just be replacing it again.
Old 08-21-2015, 06:27 PM
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oldschool350z
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Is there anything to keep the cat in good condition?
Old 08-21-2015, 07:00 PM
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Anthony Geluz
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i wonder if bad sensors or something relating to this low set of temperatures could have been responsible for my problem. the obd PIDs indicate a consistently low intake air temperature and a low engine coolant temperature.

warmed up the mass airflow seems low at 4.4g/sec.
my car was dumping more fuel.
I often drive short trips
i was rear ended. shock can damage the cat

lots of stuff. i'm hoping it isnt something serious.

Oldschool, i found this site:

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/167
Old 08-22-2015, 07:51 PM
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FairladyBlue
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Originally Posted by Anthony Geluz
it's got great power
Old 09-28-2015, 07:42 PM
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Anthony Geluz
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
First off, welcome to the forum.

On your issue, I'm with zakmartin on this one. The P0430 (and companion P0420, Bank 1 fault) are pretty common and highest probability based on Alldata and other sources indicate a bad catalyst on the left hand cat.)

You can do one of two things (not both):

1. NOT SO RECOMMENDED: Throw parts at it based on assumptions and hope for the best. Change the catalysts AND the O2 sensors (because an old/dead 02 sensor may have been the root cause of the cat failure to begin with.)

But it may not be or have been the problem.... read on....

2. RECOMMENDED - Take it to a shop that can diagnose more accurately if the catalyst is plugged. And if so, can also do a full engine systems diag to pinpoint the root cause.

There is the old "home garage theory" (read: "free" but for the temp guage) of testing it by measuring temperature in/out and looking at the differential.... old wive's tales says if the exhaust side is 200 degF higher than inlet, the converter is toast.

DO NOT RELY ON THIS.
While it's an indicator that the engine is running rich (resulting in excessive CO), it tells nothing about the root cause. This condition could be caused by any number of things... bad crankcase ventilation, ECU misinterpretation - which could be triggered by a bad O2 sensor, etc.

So bottom line, take it to the people who can diagnose it properly and offer you a solution, especially since you have no jack nor tools.

Yes, it's more expensive but....

The shop's diagnosis and subsequent repair is "warranty-able"; that is, if they misdiagnose, they really can't charge you for additional repairs. And looking at it from the shop perspective.... they cannot afford to make those mistakes.

This was the long way of saying, "Take it to a good shop who knows what they're doing."

Seems like common sense but there's so many people who, for one reason or another, refuse to accept the fact that there are things that should be done by pros with professional equipment (or competent home mechs with the proper diagnostic equipment) so that you only have to fix it ONCE. Emissions systems - especially for us in CA - is one of them.

I take the long term view.....get it done once correctly and forget about it.

My devalued $.02. I await the flames....

Mic
I took my car in last month. The mechanic after much thought and looking at the nissan obd readouts said he was unsure what was going on. There didnt seem to be anything definitive. He said a cam on bank 1 was slightly out of time.
Possibly oil gunk.
They changed an air filter (it was really dirty, I drove through a fire 3 weeks prior.)
A fuel cleaner was added and an oil detergent.
He told me to drive 50+ miles and see if the check engine light came back on and to run the tank down to near empty before refueling.
The light didn't come back on and I was able to register my car.

So that's the update a month later.

Thanks again, everybody; for your input.
Old 09-28-2015, 08:01 PM
  #12  
Vigman
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Precision Z is one of the better Z shops in So Cal... They have done a few jobs for me, no complaints and I can be a bit of a WHINER....

Mike
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