Click Noise from rear
Hello everyone. Before I start yes I've searched everywhere and have done research on this. Anyways recently I changed all my brake rotors and pads and it turned out my rear wheel bearing was super shot. I took my sweet time doing brakes and changing the wheels bearing and made sure to torque everything to spec nice and neat. The only thing however I didn't torque all the way was the axle nut. Torque wrench goes to 150 then used a breaker bar and went a tiny bit more. Not a lot. And yes I greased up the axle very very good. Litteraly 2 days later I get this CLICK from the side I changed the wheel bearing. Would it be my axle nut not tightened to 177?because I swear it isn't the grease as I added a good amount on the right area. The click only happens when taking off 1st gear or reverse. It honestly doesent bother me but if it's a severe problem please tell me. Thank you fellas and have a happy 4th!
Did you adjust the parking brake? Two ways to adjust it: interior handle and exterior on the rotor. I had a slight click squeal once I got up to speed. The new rotors made very slight contact with the parking brake shoes.
yup sure did. Adjusted the handle to 6 to 7 clicks and tightened the braking shoes until all tight and then loosened 6 to 7 noches. It's like a click once I barely move forward or backwards.
Check your end links.
An improperly torqued wheel nut can loosen and cause the bearing to make noise, but you can easily verify the torque on the nut to check.
If you didnt use the correct grease or similar when lubing the axle splines and face, the axle tick could come back relatively quickly (FSM calls for M77 molykote).
An improperly torqued wheel nut can loosen and cause the bearing to make noise, but you can easily verify the torque on the nut to check.
If you didnt use the correct grease or similar when lubing the axle splines and face, the axle tick could come back relatively quickly (FSM calls for M77 molykote).
Check your end links.
An improperly torqued wheel nut can loosen and cause the bearing to make noise, but you can easily verify the torque on the nut to check.
If you didnt use the correct grease or similar when lubing the axle splines and face, the axle tick could come back relatively quickly (FSM calls for M77 molykote).
An improperly torqued wheel nut can loosen and cause the bearing to make noise, but you can easily verify the torque on the nut to check.
If you didnt use the correct grease or similar when lubing the axle splines and face, the axle tick could come back relatively quickly (FSM calls for M77 molykote).
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Since you already have some initial torque on the nut...pull the ebrake hard, bolt on your wheels/tires. Lower the car onto the tires just enough to get a decent amount of friction on the ground and you should have no problem getting to 200.
Thank you for the help!! Also getting to 177 not 200 right? Anywho if that doesent fix the click is it okay to go with it without fixing It? I don't mind the noise as it doesent bother. If it's not dangerous or anything is It okay for me to leave it alone?
The FSM calls for a range, ive usually gone to the upper end of it. Dont remember the exact number but it shouldnt be that critical.
If a wheel bearing is making noise it is going to go sooner than later. That being said based on what you have posted im not convinced its your wheel bearing.
However, when you run the Z for a while with a significantly under torqued axle nut, the bearing develops a large amount of play that almost always destroys it. It may or may not make any noise. You may be able to cinch it up again, but there is probably damage that will lead to premature failure. If you tracked your car you would definitely notice that hub running hot.
If a wheel bearing is making noise it is going to go sooner than later. That being said based on what you have posted im not convinced its your wheel bearing.
However, when you run the Z for a while with a significantly under torqued axle nut, the bearing develops a large amount of play that almost always destroys it. It may or may not make any noise. You may be able to cinch it up again, but there is probably damage that will lead to premature failure. If you tracked your car you would definitely notice that hub running hot.
The FSM calls for a range, ive usually gone to the upper end of it. Dont remember the exact number but it shouldnt be that critical.
If a wheel bearing is making noise it is going to go sooner than later. That being said based on what you have posted im not convinced its your wheel bearing.
However, when you run the Z for a while with a significantly under torqued axle nut, the bearing develops a large amount of play that almost always destroys it. It may or may not make any noise. You may be able to cinch it up again, but there is probably damage that will lead to premature failure. If you tracked your car you would definitely notice that hub running hot.
If a wheel bearing is making noise it is going to go sooner than later. That being said based on what you have posted im not convinced its your wheel bearing.
However, when you run the Z for a while with a significantly under torqued axle nut, the bearing develops a large amount of play that almost always destroys it. It may or may not make any noise. You may be able to cinch it up again, but there is probably damage that will lead to premature failure. If you tracked your car you would definitely notice that hub running hot.
Only you can make that decision...unless the axle nut got so loose to introduce play in the bearing you are probably fine. And if you got it to at least 150 im almost sure it hasnt loosened up and the issue is something else.
Here is a update my friend you were right! I took the wheel off and checked and the grease was still there perfectly fine all lubed up. Grabbed the torque wrench that only goes to 150ft lbs to check if the nut was at least at 150ft lbs. It was so I just grabbed my huge breaker bar and gave it a strong turn.. It only went about 1/4 of a turn more until I couldn't budge it. Drove the car and no more click!!
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