Before anyone says it I've blead the entire system multiple times! Did everything I need to do to get all the air out, so since I've got this car its ran hot alil past the half mark, eventually I replaced the thermostat to start there and noticed the previous owners thermostat was gutted, I didnt think much of it and put the new thermostat in and blead the system and everything was fine for a couple days after a couple days of driving the thermostat wouldnt open turns out there was a ton of air that somehow got into the system again I've checked all lines for leaks, and I've blead the car multiple times since this started, I also did a leak down test for a head gasket and it passed, I now have the gutted thermostat back in because I dont completely overheat because there is some coolant flow, when it gets hot and I shut it off I can hear the air moving through the cooling system everywhere, the coolant reservoir also will have air pockets coming to the surface, I know air is getting in I just cant figure out how.... i replaced the radiator cap and all coolant levels are topped off and dont move, i also have a very sluggish idle and seems like a loss of power when warmed up, idk if the two could be tied together but i figured all info could help, has anyone experienced this?? I've looked everywhere and cant find anything

 

how did you bleed it?

 

Jacked front up, spill free funnel, using the bleeder valve everytime I shut the car off to cool before I would restart, all air has been out, just keeps getting back in

 

Jacked front up, spill free funnel, using the bleeder valve everytime I shut the car off to cool before I would restart, all air has been out, just keeps getting back in it?

 

Vague. We can't help unless you're willing to give full details. For example, the FSM states to do 3 10-second cycles of a 3k rev, eventually cranking the heat. Did you do that?

 

Check all the bypass hoses and behind the a/c compressor is where the water pump weep hole is...if all else fails add coolant system dye and check with uv light after a few days

 

For a complete description search for the "burb" thred on here. What i found works great is take the bleeder cover off, insert funnel and prime the tubes/heater core by pouring 50/50 directly into bleeder tube until all air bubbles are gone, recap tightly, repeat if nec, works like magic. Gl!

 

Sorry you are having this issue. It seems to be very common issue. I don't get why it is though? I just did a full drain, replaced the hoses and refilled it and had no issues at all with air the line? The only small thing I will comment on though is I saw a lot of video's where people are leaving the back bleeder valve to get air out of the line. If you look at the FSM manual it does not say to do that at all. It states just fill it until the fluid comes out of that bleeder then close it. Then I put the sealed funnel on top of the radiator and ran the car at various rpm's for a long time(30 or 40 minutes) to really get the fluid circulating etc. with the heater on and bubbles kept creeping out for a long time, but eventually it settled down and no bubbles. I also made sure to pour fluid into the reservoir tank as well.That was it.

I can't help but wonder if leaving that bleeder valve open causes air to actually get back into the line? Just a thought. Every youtube vidoe shows people trying to bleed air out with that valve, but it does not say to do it in the service manual at all? I could be wrong for sure, but thought I would throw that out there.

 

Here is the FSM. Note it says to take off the bleeder screw, fill it up and once it overflows put it back on. Never tells you to open it again for any air removal. Step 4, third bullet. At least that is how I read it. Others know way more than me on this, but thought I would at least mention it as mine went smoothly.